Thursday, March 7, 2013

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U.S. cigarette billionaire to buy Lonely Planet

Posted: 07 Mar 2013 05:59 AM PST

Lonely Planet, the storied travel guidebooks publisher owned by BBC, is about to be sold.

And the buyer is a doozy: reclusive Kentucky billionaire Brad Kelley, who spent the 1990s selling discount cigarette brands like USA Gold, Bull Durham, and Malibu, then sold the company for almost US$1 billion in 2001, and parlayed that money into becoming the one of the largest land owners and conservationists in United States.

The deal is in final stages of negotiation, and barring any big red flags that come up the last second it should be announced next week.

The deal terms, according to our sources: Kelley will buy a majority controlling stake in Lonely Planet, and BBC Worldwide, the commercial arm of BBC which bought LP, will retain a small-but-sizable stake to help maintain editorial control through current management, as well as save on inter-country taxes.

The sale price is apparently higher than what BBC currently values LP at -- that is why it is selling the majority stake, of course, no one else will pay that much -- but still way below what BBC originally paid for it, which was a total of US$210 million spread over roughly four years starting in 2007.

In July 2012, BBC Worldwide did a second write down and valued it at US$135 million. The value may be even lower now based on flagging book sales numbers.

With a majority stake, the price Kelley is paying will likely be close to US$100 million, but the exact number will likely to be revealed in BBC's annual review statements that usually come out after March.

Updated: BBC Worldwide's official statement: "We have been exploring strategic options for Lonely Planet for some time now but no deal has been done and we are not going to comment on speculation about its future."

Kelley's motivations

Churchill Downs Kentucky DerbyKelley is a former shareholder of Churchill Downs, home of the Kentucky Derby. He ran his horse, Optimizer, at the 2012 Derby.

According to friends of Kelley we have spoken to, any acquisitions he makes are always well thought out. He's incredibly thorough, doesn't overpay, doesn't do vanity buys, and looks at them long term. 

Sources say Kelley -- whose primary residence is now in Boca Grande, Florida -- is more likely the second or third largest landowner in U.S., not fourth as WSJ reported in a rare story on him last year (video from story embedded below), as he downplays his holdings and a lot of his deals to buy land never surface in media.

What Kelley and his team plans to do with Lonely Planet is confounding insiders -- including the irony that a historically environmentally forward-thinking brand like LP will now be owned by someone who made a fortune with cigarettes and now is a land-buying environmental conservationist.

With LP, Kelley's team is likely thinking of the long-term value of the brand and investing in digital -- especially video -- and possibly going into offline retail channels and using it as a environmental conservation platform.

Kelley is an investor in a small travel startup called OutwildTV, a website using video to document the adventures of travel journalists.

It is unclear what role OutWild, or its founder/principal Daniel Houghton and other principal Michael Rosenblum will have in the new Lonely Planet under Kelley's control, but Houghton and Rosenblum have been Kelley's point men on all discussions with the BBC up to this point.

Considering how guarded Kelley is -- he doesn't have a public email, has hardly ever been photographed -- it is likely OutWild principals may serve as the point people for his LP stake.

The tortured history of Lonely Planet under BBC

Tony Wheeler founded Lonely Planet, then sold it to the BBC in 2010Co-founder of Lonely Planet, Tony Wheeler sold his enterprise to BBC in 2011.

This sale finally comes after BBC has sat on a LP sale decision for a few years now, going back and forth on their thinking of what to do with the brand that it bought at an inflated valuation in 2007.

Having bought 75 percent of Lonely Planet at the height of the bubble in 2007 for US$143 million, and the rest in February of 2011 for an additional US$67 million, BBC has gone though various bouts of buyer's remorse over the years, but has not acted on it beyond writing down the value of its investment twice.

The BBC most recently valued LP at about US$135 million, down US$78 million since it bought it.

About a quarter of LP's revenues now come from digital -- which includes its various mobile apps as well -- and that's where it sees the future for the iconic travel brand.

BBC's thinking on the future of Lonely Planet has likely changed over the 2012 calendar year, in part spurred by its rethink on the future of its commercial efforts and the limits it has on exploiting a complementary Lonely Planet brand and BBC Travel in the UK.

And there's also the disappointing reminder of how little its competitor -- and superior in the U.S. -- Frommer's went for in its sale earlier this year to Google.

This will also mean that Lonely Planet will finally make an exit from Australia, its historical base of operations, and move to United States wholesale, though there may well be an interim base in London, leveraging BBC, to ease in transition.

Key milestones:

Tony and Maureen Wheeler found Lonely Planet in 1973

BBC Worldwide acquired a 75 percent stake in Lonely Planet in 2007 for £88.1 million (US$133 million).

BBC upped investment to £130.2 million (US$196 million)  in February 2011 when the Wheelers exercised an option to sell their remaining stake.

BBC wrote down investment to £85 milion (US$128 million) in July 2012.

The Guardian says: "The commercial arm of the BBC also revealed that it has been forced to take a £16.1 million (US$24 million) 'charge to the income statement' in the year to the end of March, leaving the goodwill value of Lonely Planet at just £22.6 million (US$34 million) on its books."

Story from Rafat Ali, at Skift.

Other stories from Skift:

Pope bobbleheads! Get 'em while they're hot

Posted: 06 Mar 2013 11:59 PM PST

The first papal resignation in 600 years may have shaken some Catholics, but it sent Rome's souvenir vendors into a tizzy.

Ranging from sacred to "Is this sacrilege?", Pope trinkets are a hot item in the Italian capital.

More on CNN Travel: 15 souvenir-buying no-no's

Tacky or tribute? Tell us what you think of commodifying the Pope via souvenirs in the comments section.

Redeeming sights in the world's 'worst cities'

Posted: 06 Mar 2013 09:59 PM PST

Silver linings are to clouds what tourism is to bad cities.

Sure, there are some places that you probably wouldn't want to live. But that doesn't mean they're not worth visiting.

For every reason a government bureaucrat finds for issuing a travel advisory, a local will find another imploring you to book that ticket.

That doesn't mean travel warnings shouldn't be heeded. In the story below, we've included links to advisories where relevant.

But few places are ever as bad as they tell you it's going to be.

Mercer's Quality of Living Survey for 2012 ranked these cities among the worst in the world, based on factors such as political stablity, law enforcement, education and natural environment.

We've come up with a few redeeming features for each, just in case you happen to be passing through.

Khartoum, Sudan

(217th most liveable out of 222)

Nile in KhartoumThis Nile isn't in Egypt, but Sudan.

Luxor and Aswan host a constant stream of travelers hoping to sail on a felucca or watch a Nile sunset.

For a different backdrop to your travel snaps, al-Mogran at Khartoum is where the White and Blue Niles converge before they snake through Egypt as one.

A boatyard offshore of Omdurman, on the western side of the Nile, lets you explore how traditional boats were made.

Getting there: You'll need a visa and at least US$500 to get into Sudan. Khartoum Airport is served by several main airlines and air hubs, in Africa, Europe and the Middle East.

Note: The U.S. Department of State warns of the risks of traveling to Sudan.

Sana'a, Yemen

(216th out of 222)

Sana'a old townSana'a means "fortified place" in Arabic -- some of the buildings here are nine floors high.

Of all UNESCO's World Heritage Sites, the old city of Sana'a is probably the least likely to be full of tourists. Just as well as it's densely packed enough with narrow, multi-story residences and mosques.

Populated for more than 2,500 years, this part of the Arabian Peninsula also has some of the world's oldest Islamic architecture.

Getting there: Visas are hard to come by and are best arranged through a local travel agency, such as Arabian Voyages. Travel within Yemen is highly restrictive however. 

Various government authorities advise against any travel to Yemen.

Nouakchott, Mauritania

(joint 213th out of 222)

Fishermen with nets at NouakchottYou'll appreciate what it takes to get your fish to your plate when you watch these guys at work in Nouakchott.

In West Africa, Nouakchott's coastal location makes it a good spot to see locals toiling away at one of Mauritania's main industries -- fishing.

The boardwalks and wharves at vibrant Port de Peche late in the afternoon see fisherman come ashore, hauling in their nets.

The area doubles as a market.

Getting there: From Paris and Las Palmas (Spain) in Europe oyou can sly to Nouakchott. You ca also fly African cities Algiers (Algeria), Casablanca (Morocco), Bamako (Mali) and Tunis (Tunisia).

Note: The U.S. Department of State warns of the risks of traveling to Mauritania.

Tbilisi, Georgia

(joint 213th out of 222)

Tbilisi Abanotubani view up to Narikala Fortress From the domes of the Abanotubani's bath houses up to Narikala Fortress, there's your day in Tbilisi sorted.

A dip in the hot springs of Abanotubani is a popular pastime in the capital of this former Soviet state.

Bath houses offer public and private spaces and a vigorous scrub down from one of the stern-faced workers will revive you if the sulfur scent knocks you out.

The bath district is near the base of Narikala Fortress. The aerial tramway to the fortress can make for a more impressive ride than the destination, especially in the twinkling lights of the evening.

Getting there: Various European and Asian air hubs (London, Rome, Dubai and Doha, Qatar) offer direct flights to Tbilisi International Airport.

Kinshasa, Democratic Republic of the Congo

(212th out of 222)

Surrogate mother with bonobo in Lolo ya Bonobo park near KinshasaCalling fans of cute, cuddly creatures to stop by the Lola ya Bonobo Sanctuary in Kinshasa.

Just across the river from Brazzaville in the other Congo -- which also ranks on the list as the seventh least liveable city -- Kinshasa has several unique features.

It's the third largest city on the African continent and one of the biggest French-speaking cities anywhere.

Can you tell bonobos and chimpanzees apart? The Lola ya Bonobo Sanctuary just outside Kinshasa is home to this breed of ape found nowhere else.

Getting there: Airports in Johannesburg, Nairobi, Addis Ababa and Casablanca serve Kinshasha from Africa, while flights from Europe can be booked from Paris, Brussels and Istanbul.

Note: The U.S. Department of State warns of the risk of traveling to the DRC.

Conakry, Guinea

(210th out of 222)

Suitcases for sale in ConakrySuitcases for sale: a sign that Conakry is keen to cater to travelers?

A short ferry ride off the coast of Guinea, the ring-shaped island chain of Iles de Los serves up green forest flanked by white sand beaches.

No surprise then that Roume Island in what's known as Guinea's "tropical paradise" is thought to have inspired Robert Louis Stevenson's classic, "Treasure Island."

These days, the archipelago shelters the port of Conakry and makes a quaint getaway from the city. In the 1800s, however, Roume was a point on the thriving slave route.

Getting there: Conakry has an international airport, served by various African airlines including Air Ivoire, Benin Golf Air and Royal Air Maroc and also European airlines Air France and Brussels Airlines.

Note: The U.S. Department of State warns of the risk of traveling to Guinea.

Lagos, Nigeria

(202nd out of 222)

Nigerian film titles in a Lagos storeNo Hollywood blockbusters in the pile, but plenty of Nigerian alternatives.

India's Bollywood film industry often gratifies tourists with bit parts, but we're not sure if Nigeria's film industry -- "Nollywood" -- offers the same chance for fleeting fame.

Nevertheless the Festac area of Lagos is where lots of films are shot. Respite from Lagos's traffic can be found at Lekki Conservation Centre.

Crocodiles, monkeys and birds slink between walkable boardwalks over wetlands.

Getting there: Flights to Lagos can be booked from many international hubs, including Atlanta and Houston in the United States; London, Paris and Rome in Europe; and Doha, South Africa and Kenya elsewhere.

Note: The U.S. Department of State warns of the risk of traveling to Nigeria.

Chavez’s death good for Venezuela tourism?

Posted: 06 Mar 2013 08:21 PM PST

Politicians and historians will argue ad infinitum about whether or not late Venezuelan President Hugo Chávez improved his country's fortunes during a reign that spanned 14 years. But there's one area that inarguably suffered: tourism.

Almost immediately upon Chávez's assumption of power in 1999, arrivals to Venezuela dropped precipitously, reaching a nadir in 2003.

Tourism appears to have improved nominally since, but has yet to reach pre-Chávez levels, with less than half of arrivals represented by vacationers, the majority instead being comprised of business travelers, students and those visiting family, according to Trading Economics.

All of this might be understandable if the setting was some benighted dump.

But it's confounding when discussing Venezuela, a destination that offers travelers some of the most poster-worthy natural features in the world.

Among the list of wonders is included several of the Andes mountains, more than 140,000 square miles of Amazonian rainforest, the world's tallest waterfall (Angel Falls in Bolívar) and the longest coastline in the Caribbean.

The capital of Caracas has recently suffered from a poor reputation, but many travelers still love the city, which, at its best, is still a terrifically vibrant Latin American center pulsing with history, architecture, art, culture, music and outstanding food.

A combination of factors directly traceable to policies enacted under Chávez has put Venezuelan tourism behind that of neighbor to the west Colombia, which has been wracked by a guerilla war since the 1960s, yet is seeing arrivals to the country nearly four times that of Venezuela.

Before Venezuelan tourism can bounce back it will need to reverse nearly a decade and a half of damage. That will take time.

Mad money

A man walks past graffiti in support of Venezuelan President Hugo Chavez in Caracas on January 9, 2013. Venezuela's insular monetary policies have made exchange rates cost prohibitive for most travelers to the country and devaluation of the bolívar fuerte in 2010 did little to correct what is regarded as a vastly overvalued currency.

Combine that with an inflation rate around 22 percent and onerous foreign exchange controls that make swapping out cash more like filing for a home loan, and tourists aren't the only ones who have kept their distance.

"Multinational companies find it difficult to operate in Venezuela as they are not able to exchange local currency into more stable foreign currency like the U.S. dollar, so that they can send profits back to their home office," says Marco Salazar, Latin America Research Analyst for market intelligence firm Euromonitor International.

The infrastructure afforded by that foreign investment is vital to tourism in a nation that has enough trouble providing goods for its own citizens, let alone international interlopers.

Need for cohesive tourism strategy

Chavez said the Angel Falls in southern Venezuela should be stripped of the name by which it is widely known in favor of its indigenous one -- Salto Angel. It also explains the absence in Venezuela of one pillar of any tourism strategy in particular: multi-national airlines.

Their presence in the country is limited, and likely to remain that way so long as devaluations -- like the most recent one announced in February -- threaten to wipe millions in value off companies' books.

That adjustment cost Halliburton US$30 million -- and they got off easy.

"Multinational companies are forced to swallow huge losses due to constant devaluations imposed by the government, as seen by Colgate-Palmolive's announcement of a US$120 million loss as a result of the Venezuelan devaluation in 2013," says Salazar.

And then there's always the threat of expropriation -- the seizing and nationalization of corporate assets that socked more than 1,100 companies from 2007 to 2012, according to the Venezuelan Confederation of Industries (Conindustria).

The resultant chill effect on investment has left the country woefully behind in the kinds of infrastructure, accommodations and other basic appointments needed to support a robust tourism industry.

Safety concerns

It also doesn't help that Venezuela has one of the top five murder rates in the world, according to the U.S. Department of State.

Non-governmental organization Venezuelan Violence Observatory called 2011 the most "violent in Venezuela's history," with an increase in murders and kidnappings from the previous year of roughly 30 percent.

The United Nations Office on Drugs and Crime estimates that the homicide rate grew by 119 percent during the period between 1999 and 2010.

As alarming as these statistics are, the murder rate in Venezuela is still lower than that of Jamaica, which does brisk tourist business. But Jamaica welcomes outsiders, while Venezuela seems by its policies to be provoking them.

According to the State Department, since 2005 the Venezuelan government has prohibited the U.S. Transportation Security Agency from evaluating security standards of Venezuelan airports that provide direct service to the United States.

Cause for optimism?

All of these factors explain why Venezuelan tourism has stalled, but they also provide a road map to its resurrection -- if the country wants it.

Despite what appears to be a reluctance to cater to foreigners, Venezuela recently began increasing efforts to attract travelers and saw a 25 percent spike in tourism in 2012 for its efforts, according to the country's tourism minister, Alejandro Fleming.

Though fraught with obstacles, the incredible natural and cultural upside to tourism in Venezuela paints a promising portrait for travelers eager to explore a place with unspoiled beaches, snow-capped peaks and lush rainforests.

"The future after Chavez will be very difficult to predict," says Salazar. "Venezuela is a destination that is rich in natural beauty with lots to offer visitors, but current conditions will continue to limit the tourism industry."

20 China travel tips

Posted: 06 Mar 2013 06:00 PM PST

Travel in China can rattle even veteran travelers.

This is understandable. China is a huge country with enough languages and dialects to leave even many native Chinese flummoxed at the thought of communicating away from home.

But traveling here isn't scary, and it's not unmanageable.

Traveling for the past few years from my home base in Shanghai, I've picked up a lot of tips -- both from my own experiences and from others -- that make life on the road in China a little bit easier and a lot more rewarding.

1. Score extra beds the easy way

Chinese hotels aren't too fussy when it comes to matching the number of beds to the number of people, particularly when the extra bodies are children.

For families, this can save a lot of cash. Rather than needing two rooms, a family of four can get cozy in a twin room, where both beds are the same size as a regular double bed.

China travel tips -- inline 11Don't spend coins in north China.

2. Follow proper currency protocol

Don't insult a Shanghai taxi driver by burdening him with small change, such as 1 yuan or 5 jiao notes. He likes the jingle of coins.

Conversely, in northern and western China, expect market vendors to reject coins outright. They only like paper money no matter how small the denomination.

3. Use the best language app for travelers

Pleco is the best Chinese language app for travelers.

The basic dictionary app is free. It costs US$14.95 to buy the optical character recognition function (compatible with the iPhone 4 or 5 camera). Point the iPhone at a Chinese menu and get an instant translation.

4. Customize your gifts

Have fine items made by hand and to order -- a neon sign of your name, pair of riding boots, set of sheets, oak cabinet, silk quilt or cashmere coat.

China is the land of possibilities. If you can dream it, someone can make it.

The Shandong Juancheng Neon-Plasma Tech company make customized neon signs in one week and will ship anywhere.

www.chinaneonsign.en.alibaba.com

5. Use the best guides to offbeat China

China Little T(r)ips is a series of guides for those who want to get off the well-worn tourist path in China, but don't have the inside knowledge or the language skills to do so.

These guides to Inner Mongolia, Gansu and soon Sichuan and Qinghai contain detailed itineraries, maps and language cards specific for each stage of the trip.

Inner Mongolia Guide RMB 78 (US$12.50), ebook RMB 45 (US$7), www.chinalittletrips.com

More on CNN: 8 China travel tips from a professional fixer

China travel tips -- inline 12You want rice? You gotta say it aloud.

6. Order rice the right way

Rice is rarely served during a meal in Chinese restaurants, being seen as a cheap way to fill up at the end if needed.

Anyone wanting rice with his or her meal should make it clear to the waiter by saying: mifan (rice) mashang (straight away).

7. Toilet paper reminder

Toilet tissue is rarely found in public restrooms in China. Carry your own supplies.

8. Sidestep difficult breakfasts

Outside of large cities and internationally branded hotels, Chinese hotel breakfasts cater exclusively to the local market.

This is no issue for anyone fond of congee and pickles, but can be an unimaginable hurdle for children or picky eaters. Bring a box of their favorite cereal and a few small cartons of milk and everyone starts the day happy.

Most hotels don't mind.

9. Don't worry -- it's safe

China is nowhere near as terrifying as many guidebooks would have you believe.

Yes, the traffic is chaotic and the air could be better -- much better -- but China is one of the safest countries in the world for female travelers, solo travelers and families.

10. Give -- and get -- instant gratification

Those traveling in rural China often wish to give a small gift to locals they meet, but are unsure of what might be considered appropriate.

A portrait delivered instantly on a Polaroid camera is a much-appreciated, on-the-spot gift.

Fujifilm Instax Mini 7 Polaroid camera retails for around RMB 400 (US$62) from large electronics retailers.

More on CNN: 9 China hotels with ridiculously good views

China travel tips -- inline 13Most authentic Shanghainese life is hidden in alleyways.

11. Trespass with confidence

Accustomed to the idea of private property, international travelers are often reluctant to stray from worn footpaths into lanes and hutongs for fear of intruding.

But that's not how the Chinese see things.

All of these outdoor areas are public spaces, and lanes and alleys hold some of the most captivating scenes in China's big cities.

12. Don't be fooled by loud voices

Chinese people like to converse very loudly and passionately at times, and it can be easy to mistake this for an argument.

Listening in to a heated discussion in Shanghai between a taxi driver and a Chinese friend I thought they were about to come to blows.

"No," they told me. "We were just talking together about how devastating the Sichuan earthquake was."

13. Need help? Find a high school student

The array of Mandarin dialects and variations across China can make communication difficult even for native Mandarin speakers.

But help is always at hand: those under 25 years old are most likely to speak both standard Mandarin and English.

Students who have studied English in books for years, but have had little contact with native English speakers, may more readily understand written questions.

14. Make a hometown connection

Learn the name of your country's most famous landmark for beaming instant recognition from taxi drivers, waiters and the man on the street.

Tip: Eiffel Tower is "ai fei'er tie ta," Statue of Liberty is "zi you nv shen xiang" and Great Barrier Reef is "da bao jiao."

China travel tips -- inline 14Interesting stalls like this might be steps away from your hotel.

15. Get a backstreet breakfast

In order to get some local color on business trips that will otherwise be spent inside taxis and boardrooms, "take to the backstreets behind your hotel for an early breakfast of dumplings or noodles and watch the area wake up while you eat," suggests Australian business traveler Matthew Tobin.

More on CNN: 31 dishes: A guide to China's regional specialties

16. Enhance wellness

Want to unblock your qi? Hit up a Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) clinic. Illness isn't an essential requirement -- TCM doctors believe preventing disease is just as important as treating it.

"TCM is ingrained in Chinese culture," says Canadian Leslie Bottrell, who is trained in both Western and Traditional Chinese Medicine.

"It permeates everyday life and so empowers individuals to be responsible for their wellness by promoting disease prevention."

Consultations are available at Longhua Hospital in Shanghai, one of the country's top TCM Hospitals.

LongHua Hospital, affiliated with Shanghai University of Traditional Chinese Medicine, 725 Wanping Nan Lu, Xuhui District, Shanghai; +86 21 6438 5700; open daily 8-11:30 a.m., 1-5 p.m.

China travel tips -- inline 16Art exhibit in Opposite House: a wall comprising more than 6,000 drawers.

17. Find art in unusual places

Some boutique hotels provide interesting art experiences, like the Opposite House Hotel in the Sanlitun area of Beijing.

"Their permanent art collection is second to none," says Hong Kong-based art consultant Alison Pickett.

"And they have a fantastic rotating exhibition venue in the lobby which showcases really challenging and interesting installations, many of which you wouldn't get to see in any of the galleries."

The Red Gate Gallery in Beijing holds open studio exhibitions. Visitors can see how resident international artists work, live and create in Beijing.

The Opposite House, The Village Building 1, 11 Sanlitun Lu, near Dongzhimenwai Da Jie, Village1; nightly rate from about RMB 2,500 (US$400); +86 10 6417 6688; www.theoppositehouse.com

Red Gate Gallery, 1/F and 4/F, Dongbianmen Watchtower, Dongcheng District, Beijing 4; +86 10 6525 1005; open daily 9 a.m.-5 p.m.

18. Take the kids along ... without regret

Taking small but manageable risks when traveling in China with children can reap big rewards.

Three Mountain (San Shan) Island northwest of Shanghai is an ideal spot to venture away from the big city for the weekend with the family.

"Our family took a weekend trip by train and boat to San Shan Dao, where we had an extraordinary China experience staying in small local guest houses and exploring the island," says Lynette MacDonald, editor in chief of Shanghai Family magazine and frequent traveler with children.

San Shan Dao, near Suzhou, Jiangsu Province

China travel tips -- inline 17Learn everything about Chinese cha here.

19. Get a tea education

Shanghai's Laoximen Tea Plaza houses a variety of specialty tea shops.

"On the second floor, at Qing Quan Tea (shop 218), I can sit for hours testing white or red teas and listening to owner David Li talking about health benefits, differences in soil or climate conditions or quality differences," says China-based food writer and tea lover Anna-Lena Bjarneberg.

Laoximen Tea Plaza, 1121 Fuxing Dong Lu, Huangpu District, Shanghai;+86 21 5386 5555; open daily 9 a.m.-9 p.m.

20. Take better pictures

The best gear investments to make before coming to China are an excellent camera bag and polarizing filter, according to professional photographer and frequent China traveler Roger D'Souza.

"China is very dusty and hard on photo gear, so a good bag that's well sealed but also accessible is essential."

The Australian photographer also suggests using a polarizing filter to cut through China's frequent smog. "If there is any blue in the sky this will make it appear more vibrant," he says.

More on CNN: 7 of China's coolest outdoor activities

Got your own China travel tips? Share them in the comments box below. 

Okinawa travel: 'Take me to Taketomi'

Posted: 06 Mar 2013 02:01 PM PST

Okinawa's Taketomi Island is as charming as it is relaxing. 

Remote but not too remote, touristy but not too touristy, traditional but not backwards.

With a population of just more than 300, it's an island that plays by its own time. And that time is about 50 years in the past. 

No cars are allowed on the island, which means the traveler's only choice for transportation is foot, bicycle or ox-drawn cart.

Traditional Okinawan-style single-story houses line Taketomi's unpaved streets. They're protected with clay roof tiles and topped with Shiisa gargoyles. Gajumaru trees entwine coral-block walls. 

The whole place is ringed with white-sand beaches and turquoise waters begging for a snorkel and fins.

More on CNN: Okinawan cuisine: The Japanese food you don't know

Easy access to paradise

If you don't want to rent a bike, you can hop aboard an ox-drawn cart.One of the great things about Taketomi is how simple it is to get to.

After a two-hour flight from Tokyo to Okinawa Island, it's a 30-minute flight to Ishigaki Island. Then a 10-minute ferry ride from Ishigaki Port to Taketomi.

Finally, there's a 15-minute walk into the village at the heart of the island. 

Renting a bike (1,500 yen/US$16 per day) is ther best way to get around. Several shops rent bikes -- you can't miss them as you walk into town.

It takes an hour or two to explore the village's tourist attractions -- Nagominoto Tower, Kihoin Temple and the Mingeikan craft center.

Another way to see the island is to take an ox-cart ride (1,200 yen) through the streets.

But the main reason to come to Taketomi is the beaches.

Families tend to congregate at Kondoi Beach -- it has showers and changing rooms -- but snorkelers prefer Hoshizuna-no-hama ("Star Sand Beach"), so named for the tiny star-shaped shells that can be found amid its sands. 

Taketomi makes a great day-trip from Ishigaki Island, but you can spend the night at one of its many minshuku (bed and breakfast guesthouses), which are rustic by normal hotel standards.

Rooms run from 5,500-6,500 yen (US$60-70) per person, including breakfast.

Some of the more popular include Minshuku Noharaso and Villa Taketomi.

More on CNN: Okinawa: Which island is for you? 

CNN Travel's series often carries sponsorship originating from the countries and regions we profile. However CNN retains full editorial control over all of its reports. Read the policy

 

 

 

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