Thursday, March 21, 2013

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Insider Guide: Best of Chicago

Posted: 21 Mar 2013 03:00 AM PDT

Ask anyone on the street what he or she likes most about Chicago, and you'll mostly likely get "the friendly people."

But what makes Chicagoans so gosh darn friendly?

Perhaps it's the camaraderie they form during the city's harsh winters and blessed summers.

Or maybe it's because this Midwestern mecca has some of the best museums, restaurants and architecture in the world -- and it's all actually affordable.

Whatever the reason, there's nothing "second" about the Second City in the hearts of its citizens -- as well as most anyone else who's explored this paradoxically folksy metropolis.

Print and go -- Our traveler-friendly one-page guide here: Best of Chicago

Hotels

Luxury

Dislike him or hate him, Donald Trump knows hotels. Trump Hotel

Donald Trump might be a walking caricature, but there are still some things that the billionaire real estate magnate does right, like constructing the second tallest building in Chicago (and the country, after the Willis Tower) with the best views of the city.

Even Pulitzer Prize-winning architecture critic Blair Kamin admitted the River North vistas from Trump's four-star restaurant Sixteen -- when compared to the Signature Room on the 95th floor of the Hancock Center -- are "more intimate, practically putting you eyeball-to-eyeball with the Wrigley Building's clock tower and the flying buttresses of Tribune Tower."

If you head down to the sleek 6,000-square-foot spa, expect a monster bill. A 90-minute facial, for example, will set you back $420 including tip, but that's the price you pay when you want to live like the Donald.

401 N. Wabash Ave.; +1 312 588 8000; from US$395 per night; www.trumphotelcollection.com/chicago

 

The King, or standard, Room. Waldorf Astoria

Last year Travel + Leisure ranked the Waldorf Astoria (formerly the Elysian) the top large-city hotel in the United States, and it's easy to see why: the lobby's glistening marble and starburst chandeliers rival the grandest beaux-arts hotels in Paris.

The 34-seat Bernard's Bar on the second floor serves an excellent $14 champagne cocktail, and the classic Coco Chanel vibe is worth the price tag.

If you forgot to pack your Chanel or Savile Row suits for the occasion, you can pick up appropriate attire at one of the spendy shops on Oak Street, just around the corner.

11 E. Walton St.; +1 312 646 1300; from US$369 per night; www.waldorfastoria3.hilton.com

 

The Grand Deluxe Suite, overlooking Michigan Avenue. The Peninsula

Another top-ranked U.S. hotel, the Peninsula offers the amenities that one expects from a five-star spot, including an indoor pool worthy of an F. Scott Fitzgerald novel, afternoon tea service that surpasses the high tea at London's Savoy Hotel and a prime location in the center of the Magnificent Mile shopping district.

The spa services here are worth the price. In 2012, Chicago magazine ranked it one of the top day spas in the city, where the massages (around $165 per hour) blew away the competition.

108 E. Superior St.; +1 312 337 2888; from US$395 per night; www.peninsula.com/Chicago

 

Mid-range

Public's concept is sophisticated accommodations and service at an affordable price. The Public

Unlike New York and Los Angeles, luxury hotels in downtown Chicago are generally cheaper (if not cheap), which means that mid-range rooms are even more of a bargain.

Built in 1926, the Ambassador East Hotel and its legendary Pump Room entertained the likes of Frank Sinatra and Judy Garland until it faded from the limelight. Then in 2010, hotel developer (and Studio 54 cofounder) Ian Schrager bought the building and poured $35 million into its renovation.

Renamed the Public, the Gold Coast hotel has quickly reclaimed its throne as the home away from home for the rich and beautiful -- many of whom like to cluster around the white couches of the Library bar before heading to the revamped Pump Room.

1302 N. State Pkwy.; +1 312 787 3700; from US$180 per night; www.publichotels.com/chicago

 

One of the few buildings to survive the Great Fire ... was demolished to make way for this building in 1895. Burnham Hotel

Recognize the name Burnham? That's Daniel Burnham, the legendary architect, city planner and protagonist in Erik Larson's bestseller Devil in the White City. Burnham's firm also had a hand in designing the historic Reliance Building, which houses the Hotel Burnham in the Loop.

Completed in 1895, the Reliance Building is noteworthy for its floor-to-ceiling plate glass windows, a groundbreaking concept at the time. The interiors are a time warp, too, with elaborate metal elevator grilles, restored mosaic tile floors and tasteful touches of art nouveau splendor.

1 W. Washington St.; +1 312 782 1111; from US$159 per night; www.burnhamhotel.com

 

Budget

Room 13 (of six). Don't ask. Inn at Longman & Eagle

In the past five years, the Logan Square neighborhood in Northwest Chicago has exploded as a hot bed for affluent hipsters -- Longman & Eagle is the epicenter.

The inn has only six rooms, all outfitted with classy-but-kitchy design elements ripped from the pages of Wallpaper magazine (or perhaps inspired by the Portland chic of the Ace Hotel chain).

The best part of staying at the inn is a guaranteed spot at the restaurant downstairs. The Michelin-rated gastropub doesn't take reservations otherwise, and the wait can be up to two hours at peak times. 

2657 N. Kedzie Ave.; +1 773 276 7110; from US$85 per night; www.longmanandeagle.com/sleep

 

Dining

Hot Potato Cold Potato, one of Alinea's beloved forays into molecular gastronomy. Alinea

Until last year Alinea was the top American restaurant on the World's 50 Best Restaurants list. Although it now ranks just below New York's Per Se, no critic will argue chef Grant Achatz's culinary inventiveness and striking presentation.

The always-evolving multi-course tasting menu comes out of the kitchen in a series of deconstructed bites served on everything from driftwood to lavender-scented pillows.

For his classic chocolate finale, Achatz or one of his crew serves the dessert right on the table, brushing and flicking ingredients with Jackson Pollock fervor.

The only downside is that Alinea has switched to a ticketed system for reservations. If you want a day-of table, keep tabs on Alinea's Facebook page or Twitter feed for last-minute openings.

1723 N. Halsted St.; +1 312 867 0110; Wednesday-Sunday: 5 p.m.-6:30 p.m. and 8 p.m.-9:30 p.m; expensive; www.alinearestaurant.com

 

Jackets required for gentlemen. Spiaggia

When the Obamas are home in Chicago, there's a chance you'll see them dining at Chicago's only four-star Italian restaurant. For nearly 30 years, the President's favorite chef, Tony Mantuano, has served handmade pastas and wood-roasted proteins.

The scallops are another Obama favorite.

If the $175 truffle tasting menu at Spiaggia is beyond reach, Café Spiaggia next door offers an excellent introduction to Mantuano's talents without breaking the bank.

Pastas, pizzas, and main dishes range from $14 to $58.

980 N. Michigan Ave., 2/F; +1 312 280 2750; open daily: 11:30 a.m.-1:30 p.m., Sunday-Thursday: 6-10 p.m. and Friday-Saturday: 5:30-11 p.m.; expensive; www.spiaggiarestaurant.com 

 

Flavorful flautas from Frontera. Frontera Grill

Although the décor at Rick Bayless's flagship restaurant is a bit dated, the food isn't.

His modern twists on fresh Mexican cuisine -- crisp and bright ceviches, smoky salads, seasonal margaritas -- continue to please the guests who flood Frontera's doors.

When the wait at Frontera Grill or Topolobampo (his more upscale restaurant next door) becomes unbearable, try Bayless's casual spot, Xoco, on the corner. The service there is quicker and the famous tortas can be wrapped up to go.

445 N. Clark St.; +1 312 661 1434; Tuesday-Friday: 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m., Saturday: 10:30 a.m.-2 p.m. (brunch), Tuesday: 5:30-10 p.m., Wednesday-Thursday: 5-11 p.m., Friday-Saturday: 5-11 p.m.; moderate; www.rickbayless.com/restaurants/grill.html

 

Modern Asian barbecue. BellyQ

If New York has Momofuku and David Chang, then Chicago has Bill Kim and his trio of modern Asian restaurants. Kim's newest addition is BellyQ, a more upscale interpretation of his street fare made possible through a partnership with none other than Michael Jordan.

Here, the standouts are the tabletop barbecue (banana leaf-wrapped salmon, Korean short rib) and savory Asian pancakes (smoked bacon and kimchi).

And no Korean barbeque would be complete without a karaoke den where, thankfully, there's a two-song minimum.


1400 W. Randolph St.; +1 312 563 1010; Monday-Friday: 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; Sunday-Wednesday: 5-10 p.m. (bar open until 11 p.m.); Thursday-Saturday: 5-11 p.m. (bar open until midnight); moderate; www.bellyqchicago.com

 

Mr. Beef's base take on the classic Chicago sandwich consists of beef dipped in broth and layered on a roll, then topped with sweet or hot peppers. Mr. Beef

If you're serious about visiting Chicago, then you can't leave until you have an Italian beef sandwich.

There's much debate as to which is the best (Mr. Beef or Al's), but Food Wars on the Travel Channel declared Mr. Beef the clear winner in 2010. And unlike Al's, Mr. Beef isn't a franchise. A favorite order is the signature dish, extra juicy, topped with spicy giardiniera. 

666 N. Orleans St.; +1 312 337 8500; Monday-Thursday: 9 a.m.-5 p.m. and 10:30 p.m.-4 a.m.; Saturday: 10 a.m.-3 p.m. and 10:30 p.m.-5 a.m.; budget; www.mrbeeforleans.com


Hot Doug's

Many souls make the pilgrimage to Hot Doug's in Avondale, even though the trip requires a car (or a train and a bus) to get there from downtown.

Chef and former punk rocker Doug Sohn churns out unique gourmet sausages every week, including favorites such as duck sausage with apple mustard and gyros sausage with tzatziki.

Chicago-style dogs are on the menu, too, and a side order of duck fat fries (available only on Fridays and Saturdays) is a must.

3324 N. California Ave.; +1 773 279 9550; Monday-Saturday: 10:30 a.m.-4 p.m.; budget; www.hotdougs.com


Pepperoni and green pepper deep dish. Pequod's Pizza

Chicago -- perhaps even more than New York -- is a serious pizza town. Whether you like it thin, Neapolitan or New Haven-style, there's a slice for everyone.

But, of course, the local specialty is deep-dish pizza. Consuming a full slice is a challenge. Pounds of meat and cheese (all topped with a bucket of sauce) tend to sit in your belly for hours.

But a slice of sausage with perfectly caramelized crust at Pequod's is worth the temporary pain.

2207 N. Clybourn Ave.; +1 773 327 1512; Monday-Saturday: 11 a.m.-2 a.m.; Sunday: 11 a.m.-midnight; budget; www.pequodspizza.com

 

Nightlife

 

Warning: the drinks at Aviary might make you feel under-dressed. Aviary

What Alinea is to food, Aviary is to drinks.

The average cocktail at this Grant Achatz lounge is $20, but it's unlike any cocktail you've had. Every bartender here is a trained chef, so flavor rules above all else.

Like Alinea, the attention to presentation verges on the ridiculous. Ask for the Blueberry, and it comes out in a custom-designed clear cylinder that's expertly packed with fruit, herbs and edible flowers.

There's also a speakeasy downstairs, but you have to be invited to enter by someone on staff.

955 W. Fulton Market; +1 312 226 0868; Tuesday-Friday: 6 p.m.-2 a.m.; Saturday: 6 p.m.-3 a.m.; expensive; www.theaviary.com

 

Three drinks for the price of one. Scofflaw

Although Scofflaw is new on the scene, it's already grabbed the top spot as the best bar in the city from Chicago magazine.

Head bartender and co-owner Danny Shapiro trained at The Whistler (another beloved cocktail bar in Logan Square) before opening this gin lounge.

The presentation is elegant but simple, many spirits are locally made and the interior is furnished with carefully picked salvage pieces.

Cocktails are only $8 -- yet another reason Scofflaw earns top honors.

3201 W. Armitage Ave.; +1 773 252 9700; Sunday-Friday: 5 p.m.-2 a.m. and Saturday 5 p.m.-3 a.m.; moderate; www.scofflawchicago.com

 

It's great, outdoors. Big Star

Half taco hut, half whiskey joint, Big Star is the place for al fresco meet-ups in Chicago. When the weather is warm, the doors of this former garage in Wicker Park are raised and open tables disappear in a flash.

Paul Kahan, the chef behind Blackbird, Avec and Publican, crafted the food menu; the people behind The Violet Hour, a craft cocktail institution across the street, created the drinks.


1531 N. Damen Ave.; +1 773 235 4039; Sunday-Friday: 11:30 a.m.-2 a.m.; Saturday: 11:30 a.m.-3 a.m.; moderate; www.bigstarchicago.com

 

Beer church. Hopleaf

In the past decade Chicago has opened four new breweries (Revolution, Half Acre, 5 Rabbit, Metropolitan), but the city's love of beer was established long ago, thanks in part to Uptown gastropub Hopleaf and its diverse beer list.

The local hits are all on tap here, as are craft brews from across the country and a vast selection of Belgian ales.

In case that wasn't enough, Hopleaf also stocks more than 250 bottled beers from North America and Europe.

5148 N. Clark St.; +1 773 334 9851; Sunday-Friday: noon-2 a.m.; Saturday: noon-3 a.m.; moderate; www.hopleaf.com

 

Happy Village also hosts competitive table tennis, the world's happiest sport. Happy Village

Chicago is awash in neighborhood dive bars, many of them marked with a dim Schlitz sign and nothing else.  

Happy Village in Ukrainian Village stands out for its extras: checkered tablecloths, Ping-Pong, $2 PBRs and a homey back patio equipped with plastic chairs, strings of white lights and garden gnomes.

1059 N. Wolcott Ave.; +1 773 486 1512; Monday-Friday: 4 p.m.-2 a.m; Saturday: noon.-3 a.m.; Sunday: noon-2 a.m.; budget; www.happyvillagebar.com
 

 

Purportedly there are escape tunnels below the bar that date back to Prohibition. Perfect for first dates!Green Mill Cocktail Lounge

 

Like pizza and beer, jazz and Chicago are the perfect marriage, and for more than 100 years, the Green Mill has been the perfect place to cherish the union.

During Prohibition, Al Capone had a favorite booth, which still seats patrons. (Legend has it he liked it because he had a clear view of the front and back entrances.)

Today the Uptown club books some of the best jazz artists in the world, and for fans of word jazz, the Green Mill hosts a popular poetry slam every Sunday night.

4802 N. Broadway St.; +1 773 878 5552; Monday-Friday: noon-4 a.m.; Saturday: noon-5 a.m.; Sunday: 11 a.m.-4 a.m.; moderate; www.greenmilljazz.com

 

Shopping

The cafe's prices are considered reasonable. Ikram

Ikram Goldman won national attention as Michelle Obama's stylist, but her eponymous boutique has dressed Chicago's most fashionable women for more than a decade.

Goldman travels the world for the most cutting-edge designers. Alexander McQueen, Commes des Garçons, Prabal Gurung and Rodarte are just a few of the fashion houses she carries in her store, which quadrupled in size in 2011.

15 E. Huron St.; + 1 312 587 1000; Monday-Saturday: 10 a.m.-6 p.m. (and by appointment); expensive; www.ikram.com

 

Penelope's stated style is "sophisticated yet fun." Penelope's

For those unaccustomed to dropping $40,000 on a trip to Ikram, Penelope's offers a wide selection of affordable clothing by the owners' favorite "young and under-represented" designers.

Men and women can discover their inner Wicker Park hipster without any pressure or pretense from the store staff, who are always willing to gather a different size or strike up a friendly chat.

1913 W. Division St.; + 1 773 395 2351; Monday-Saturday: 11 a.m.-7 p.m.; Sunday: noon-6 p.m.; moderate; www.shoppenelopes.com

 

Purchase a lid off the hat rack, or have one custom made for the same price. Optimo Hats

Frank Sinatra, Charlie Chaplin, Lester Young. They all had their trademark hats, and at Optimo on the South Side, there are lids for every tony personality.

Storeowner and master milliner Graham Thompson crafts classic hats using the same techniques employed 50 years ago.

Thompson's rising popularity (Johnny Depp is a fan, too) allowed him to open a second store in the historic Monadnock Building in the loop in 2012.

10215 S. Western Ave.; +1 773 238 2999; Monday-Saturday: 10 a.m.-6 p.m.; expensive; www.optimohats.com


Merz Apothecary

Since 1875, this family-run drugstore has been a haven for herbal remedies and European goods. The original location in Lincoln Square still fills prescriptions and still uses its original antique pharmacy jars.

Need a bar of soap for your stay? Merz has one of the largest collections of luxury bath products from around the world.

4716 N. Lincoln Ave.; +1 773 989 0900; Monday-Saturday: 9 a.m.-6 p.m.; budget; www.merzapothecary.com

 

Attractions

The wing's "flying carpet" roof is a metal grid consisting of blades that block direct sun from the south, yet allow light from the north, conserving the works within. The Modern Wing at the Art Institute of Chicago

Like the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, you can spend an entire day at the Art Institute and cover only a fraction of the collection.

If time is limited, you can do a quick Ferris Bueller moment in the main building, before heading to the 264,000-square-foot Modern Wing to admire works by Matisse, Picasso and Miró under the natural light.

For lunch there's Tony Mantuano's elegant Terzo Piano on the third floor, where the spectacular view makes an advance reservation a necessity.

111 S. Michigan Ave.; +1 312 443 3600; open daily: 10:30 a.m.-5 p.m. (Thursdays until 8 p.m.); www.artic.edu

 

The tour covers more than 50 buildings along the Chicago River. Chicago Architecture Foundation River Cruise

There are a number of boat tours on the Chicago River, but the Chicago Architecture Foundation River Cruise is the one that's most worth your time.

Enthusiastic CAF docents provide an engaging review of the city's rich architectural history, and the perspective from the water is unlike (and far superior to) anything you'd experience at street level.

Dock located near the corner of North Michigan Avenue and East Wacker Drive; +1 312 922 8687; tours start at 10 a.m. and typically run every half hour or hour depending on season; $37.85; www.architecture.org

 

Shhh ... the park still thinks the millennium began in 2004. Millennium Park

Although it opened four years behind schedule in 2004 and many taxpayers grumbled at its half-billion-dollar price tag, Millennium Park has become a critical darling.

Photos in front of the mirrored Cloud Gate sculpture, or "The Bean" as most people call it, have become a staple for tourists and locals, and on hot summer days, the Crown Fountain is a refuge for barefoot children in bathing suits.

The Jay Pritzer Pavillion, designed by Frank Gehry, hosts a slew of outdoor performances all summer long, and the competition for free lawn space is fierce.

North Michigan Avenue and East Washington Street; +1 312 742 1168; open daily: 6 a.m.-11 p.m.; www.millenniumpark.org 

 

Comedy

Chicago's as notorious for wit as it is for wind. You might catch tomorrow's biggest -- in many cases, literally -- comedians at one of Chi-Town's world-famous comedy labs.

 

Second City alums include John Candy, Bill Murray, Chris Farley, Tina Fey and Stephen Colbert. The Second City

Name almost any SNL breakout star -- John Belushi, Chris Farley, Tina Fey, Amy Poehler -- and chances are he or she served a stint in Chicago at Second City.

Chicago is the best place in the world to experience improv and sketch comedy, and the Second City revue (nightly except Mondays) and Monday night's Improv All-Stars are safe bets that are always entertaining.

Those brave enough to test their improvisational skills are welcome to attend a drop-in class ($15; no experience required) at the training center on Sundays at 6 p.m.

1616 N. Wells St.; +1 312 337 3992; $16-$28; www.secondcity.com

 

The theater is formerly known as Improv Olympic. iO

The iO is the true improv giant in town, and the theater's signature show, "The Harold," is the definitive improv experience.

Founders Del Close and Charna Halpern invented the Harold technique, in which performers take a suggestion from the audience and create scenes and characters on the spot.

3541 N. Clark St.; +1 773 880 0199; performed nightly: $5-14 (free on Wednesdays); www.ioimprov.com

 

From "Too Much Light Makes the Baby Go Blind." The Neo-Futurists

The Neo-Futurists isn't improv or sketch; it's experimental theater mixed with moments of truth and hilarity.

Every weekend since 1988 the troupe has performed "Too Much Light Makes the Baby Go Blind," 30 short plays that are carried out in just 60 minutes. Each play is written by the ensemble and the lineup is constantly changing.

No two performances are the same.

The absurdity of the format -- with performers dashing around the stage at breakneck speed -- is worth a million laughs.

5153 N. Ashland Ave.; +1 773 878 4557; Friday-Saturday: 11:30 p.m., Sunday: 7 p.m.; prices vary; www.neofuturists.org

Coffee comes home: How the cappuccino conquered South Africa

Posted: 20 Mar 2013 10:59 PM PDT

Not so long ago, if you ordered a cup of coffee in South Africa you needed to specify "filter" to avoid getting instant.

A decade ago, there was no cafe culture, nowhere to go for a flat white and certainly no expectation of locally roasted beans.

Those days are gone. Specialist coffee shops did nearly four times the business here in 2012 as in 2007.

The epicenter of the country's coffee revolution is Cape Town, whose population has a reputation for being trendy and aspirational.

These days, to-go cups from the right coffee shop are displayed like choice accessories.

A few companies are willing to take the credit for spearheading the trend, though it's more likely the combined result of several that had the foresight to anticipate interest in better coffee and the ability to interpret it for a local audience.

From bad to good to great

Coffee expectations, till recently, have been very low. Instant coffee, often cut with chicory, was a vehicle for lots of milk and sugar to warm the body and provide a minor buzz.

Capetonians who used to drink instant coffee, tea or no hot beverage at all, have since discovered the cappuccino.

Wimpy, KFC, BP Garage and other chains offer cheap and cheerful versions for the masses.

"They've got these coffee machines. But you don't smell coffee," says Anthony Swarz of Anthony's Golden Cup. "I don't know if it's instant. But it's not the same as if people walk into my shop, as if they've been pulled by the nose."

Swarz links the end of apartheid to the demand for better quality coffee.

"Now that all races can travel, wherever they go, they get good coffee," says Swarz. When they return, he says, their expectations are higher, and they seek out local roasters.

Swarz is old school. His small shop has tiny tables for two and is decorated with an assortment of flags (both for coffee and soccer countries, he says) and antique coffee makers from various cultures.

Swarz, who is in his 70s and drinks several full-strength cups daily, prepares the drinks himself, serving them in zebra-striped mugs.

"Sometimes they take all the fun out of making coffee with those little coffee pods. When you start grinding your own coffee, it's fun."

Swarz listens to the coffee beans to decide when they're done.

"Different coffees have a different cackle," he says. "You know exactly when to let it out, to get the best aroma, the best taste. These days people roast by computer."

It's not about the caffeine, it's about the experience

cafes in cape townCape Town cafes are no longer places simply to get a sugar fix. Vida e Caffe is the most visible of the new breed of cafes, with 65 shops and an aggressive expansion plan taking them from Cape Town into Johannesburg and beyond.

Grant Dutton, Vida's marketing director, says they're against the globalization and Americanization of coffee, with no massive venti offerings a la Starbucks.

Until now they've eschewed flavored syrups, though he says they might try vanilla.

There's a high see-and-be-seen factor associated with Vida cafes, which strategically selects locations in affluent shopping areas.

Vida is a twist of Afrioptimism (workers chant their thanks to customers who tip) and Angolan colonialism (menus are in Portuguese), served up in shiny red and white stores with an artsy in-house magazine and strong ties to other aspirational brands -- a mini Lindt bar comes with a beverage.

The vibe is high-energy, a bit loud, but friendly and happy.

"It wakes you up," says Dutton about the Vida experience. "It's African, genuine, fun, sincere. We like our guys to use their personality, to have fun and be themselves."

Vida's beans are all roasted in the basement below their Cape Town headquarters.

Detractors say that Vida is less about the coffee and more about the experience.

By contrast, Origins is dark and cool, a cave-cum-cafe even on a hot day.

It's an urban scene with its painted brick, exposed pipes, oversized sacks of beans and monster of a grinder.

Long, communal tables are shared by laptop commuters and chatting friends. There's a continuous stream of people coming in for a cup to go.

Bernisha Moses, wearing a T-shirt that says, "Some like it BLACK," is one of the few women working behind a counter. She can readily identify with her customers' shifting palates, as she's been educating her own while working here.

"Some people come in and ask for a 'normal coffee,'" she says. "So we have to ask questions to figure out what they mean by that -- maybe a filter coffee with milk on the side."

Origins has led the way as an artisanal roaster. Although it has just one cafe, it supplies beans and barista trainings to independent venues all over the city.

Owner Joel Singer estimates that Origins has trained 800-1,000 baristas. Many of the other roasting company owners and employees were trained at Origins.

Beans for Africa

cape town cafesJosé Vilandy: "People are starting to recognize that Africa is the mother of coffee." Coffee beans are one of Africa's premium export products.

"Coffee has a long life of about a year," says José Vilandy, who won the country's 2008 barista competition, and who now works for Truth, one of the city's new boutique roasters.

"But once it's been roasted, it only lasts four or five weeks."

In other words, buying coffee roasted in Europe means paying premium prices for stale coffee.

Customers have a keen interest in beans from Africa.

Just as chocolate is often associated with Switzerland rather than Ghana and Madagascar where cacao beans are actually grown, coffee has long been synonymous with European culture -- even though no coffee beans grow in Italy or France.

There's been a shift away from this Eurocentric perspective.

"People are starting to recognize that Africa is the mother of coffee," says Vilandy. "That's something that people appreciate a lot."

Up next

Cape Town remains a city deeply divided by race and class and the new cafes have opened up almost entirely in middle class and wealthy areas.

One promising new cafe recently opened up in Khayelitsha, the city's largest township. The Department of Coffee bills itself as the only place to get a cappuccino in Khayelitsha.

Located near a train station, the DOC has plenty of passersby, though on a recent summer day, only the occasional person stopped for a cold fruit drink at midday.

In traditional African culture, hot coffee is seen as a winter drink, and for adults only.

cape town coffeeThis kind of care and attention to detail is a recent thing in South Africa. "People say, 'No, it's hot, I can't drink it," says Wongama Baleni, who jokingly refers to himself as the Department's Minister.

Baleni and his partners Vusumzi Mamile and Vuyile Msaku are three young entrepreneurs who were looking for a business idea in the neighborhood where they grew up, but where they wouldn't have any direct competition. Earlier ideas were a car wash and laundromat.

They did their market research on foot, scoping out available spaces and proposing the idea of a takeaway cafe to potential customers.

Responses were positive; many people who live in Khayelitsha work downtown and have turned on to the coffee scene, but have no options close to home. And many others are espresso virgins.

"We're bringing coffee culture to black people," says Baleni. "We give them a taste. It smells nice. We brought it to the mall, explaining that we will come to you in the morning with coffee."

Mornings start early and are busy, with a set list of repeat customers who have their morning drinks delivered in stylish orange and white cups to their workplaces.

Singer says coffee culture has just started in South Africa.

Roasteries haven't been opening up all over Johannesburg and Durban with the same intensity, although the wave is clearly moving north.

In the next five years, Singer expects people will ask more questions, get very fussy, and generally be excited about fine-grain coffee details.

"First people discovered cappuccino. Then they discovered well-made cappuccino," he says. "Now people want to start exploring subtle issues."

Cape Town cafes

Anthony's Golden Cup

Anthony offers flavored coffees, such as amarula, largely in response to customers who have traveled overseas and requested them. If you're looking for American-style syrup flavors, this is the closest you'll find in Cape Town.

59 Loop St., Cape Town; +27 21 426 1268; goldencup.co.za

Bean There Coffee Company

The first Cape Town branch of the Johannesburg cafe that emphasizes fair-trade coffee.

58 Wale St., Cape Town; +27 87 943 2228; www.beanthere.co.za

Department of Coffee

At R8.50 (US$1) for a top-notch cappuccino, theirs is definitely the best bargain in town.

158 Ntlazane St., Khayelitsha (corner of Ntlazane street and Khwezi crescent, near Khayelitsha train station); +27 73 300 9519/+27 78 086 0093/+27 78 316 2918; www.facebook.com/pages/Department-of-Coffee

Origin Coffee Roasting

Origin offers coffee appreciation courses -- not unlike Wine Tasting 101.

28 Hudson St., Cape Town; +27 21 421 1000; www.originroasting.co.za

Truth

Exacting standards at a location ideal for walking tours.

36 Buitenkant St., Cape Town; +27 21 200 0440; www.truthcoffee.com

Vida e Caffe

Popular local chain in various locations around the city.

www.vidaecaffe.com/stores/cape-town/

Going up Down Under: Southern Hemisphere's tallest building

Posted: 20 Mar 2013 09:07 PM PDT

The impressive and somewhat gravity defying Australia 108 building. Planning approval has been given for Australia 108, a 388-meter skyscraper in the Victorian city of Melbourne that will be the tallest building in the southern hemisphere.

That boast may not last too long with a taller building in South Africa set to be completed in 2018 -- the same year Australia 108 is due to complete.

Victorian Planning Minister Matthew Guy this week approved plans for the US$622 million project, which will be built on the city's Southbank Boulevard.

When complete, it'll surpass Melbourne's Eureka Tower (297 meters) and overthrow Q1 (322 meters) in Queensland's Gold Coast as the tallest building in the southern hemisphere.

More on CNN: 20 of the world's most iconic skyscrapers

Australia 108's designers were behind Melbourne's current tallest building.
Construction is expected to begin early 2014 and it will take three to four years to build, according to an Australia 108 representative.

The design, by Fender Katsalidis Architects (who also designed Eureka Tower), will feature 108 floors of residential apartments, recreation facilities, a "six-star luxury hotel" and a sky bar on the top floor that resembles a glass cube suspended between two pillars near the pinnacle.

"Australia 108 has the ability to define Melbourne and signify our coming of age as a dynamic and progressive international city," said Nonda Katsalidis, co-designer of the tower.

"Nothing like this exists in our part of the world."

The hotel's sky lobby hangs out of the main building. When looked at from afar, the middle section looks like it's hovering in mid-air (refer to top picture).
The hotel will be located from level 83 and house 288 rooms. At that height the view will be impressive despite Melbourne's notoriously unpredictable weather.

The design of the lobby on level 83 will appear to be hovering over the city. In addition to the two restaurants and bars, the lobby will feature an observatory lounge with sections of glass floor for brave souls hoping to see the ground from above.

Most of the recreation facilities, including the sky bar and observatory lounge, will be available to the public while other areas will be reserved for residents and guests only.

Details on who will operate the hotel are yet to be released.

Don't look down. The sky lobby's observatory lounge features sections of glass floor.

Complete Korean cosmetics shopping guide

Posted: 20 Mar 2013 09:00 PM PDT

With the world's biggest obsession with plastic surgery and some of the fastest-evolving beauty technology, spas and cosmetic lines in the world, South Korea is a bona fide beauty destination. 

According to a government survey, the items tourists want to purchase the most while visiting are Korean beauty products.

With good reason. Korean cosmetic brands introduce products made from exotic ingredients seemingly every month -- Jeju Island volcanic clay, soybeans, traditional Korean medicine and, of course, snail guts.

Cool concept brands debut each year. In 2012, it was Frostine, "the world's first refrigerated skincare line."

Of foreign tourists, Chinese and Japanese shell out for Korean beauty products the most. According to Amorepacific, the country's largest cosmetics company, with 40 percent market share, Chinese tourists accounted for a whopping 40.1 percent of total domestic sales in 2011, while Japanese tourists accounted for 9.1 percent.

"We see Chinese customers buy three to five sets of the Sulwhasoo Timetreasure line at a time as gifts," says Amorepacific spokesperson Sunghae Kweon. Priced at US$886, Timetreasure is the most expensive line in the cosmetic group's portfolio. 

Here's what to snap up while you're in town. Incheon duty free is the one exception we'll make to our strict ban on buying gifts at the airport

Skincare/cleansing

One beauty editor's top pick. Iope Bio Essence Intensive Conditioning

"This was one of the hottest new items that debuted last year," says Yumi Cho, beauty editor of "Woman Joongang" magazine.

Cho puts Iope's Bio Essence at the top of her must-have list of skin products.

Meant to be used after toner and before moisturizer, "the effect is amazing -- it smooths rough skin," says Cho.

The men's essence is massively popular with the Korean gents, and can be used in place of toner. It's a great gift for women and men in their twenties and thirties.

Women's essence: ₩36,000 (US$33) for 84ml, ₩60,000 (US$55) for 168ml, men's essence: ₩42,000 (US$38) for 145ml; available at most duty free stores; www.iope.co.kr

Great gift for moms. O HUI age recovery super anti-aging essence

One of the higher-end Korean cosmetic brands, O HUI spent two years developing its anti-aging line using collagen type III, also known as baby collagen, as an ingredient, which is supposed to make the skin return to childlike softness. Women go nuts for this line. 

₩120,000 (US$109) for 45ml, available at most department stores and duty free stores; www.ohui.co.kr

Don't forget to try the capsule packs, as well. innisfree it's real mask

Here's an interesting fact: When North Korea conducted its nuclear test in February and the world reeled in shock, the top keyword searched on South Korea's main portal site was innisfree, due to the fact that the plant-based cosmetics brand was having a sale that day.

The innisfree masks come in a variety of options, work well and are cheap (during sales the company promotes buy-10-get-10-free deals). Recommended varieties: royal jelly and Jejubija.

innisfree also carries sleeping masks, which come in tiny capsule-like containers that make cute, fun gifts.

₩950 (US$1) per mask; innisfree has stores on almost every other street. Myeong-dong flagship: Jung-gu Myeong-dong 1-ga 64-2, Seoul; +82 2 776 0117; www.innisfree.co.kr

Comes with a fresh, natural scent. innisfree olive real cleansing foam/cleansing tissue

Made with organic olive extract, innisfree's organic olive real cleansing foam cleanses thoroughly without leaving oily residue, and has a lovely natural scent.

The same goes for its cleansing sheets, which are great for travel: Ziploc-bag a sheet for each day you're away, and use just before the cleansing foam.

Tip: the sheets don't work all that well with waterproof eye makeup.

Cleansing foam: ₩10,000(US$9) for 150ml; cleansing tissue: ₩5,000 (US$4.50) for 30 sheets; innisfree has stores on almost every other street. Myeong-dong flagship: Jung-gu Myeong-dong 1-ga 64-2, Seoul; +82 2 776 0117; www.innisfree.co.kr

World's first cleansing jelly? VDL NAKED cleansing oil cream

Launched in 2012, VDL's flagship store is located on the trendy tree-lined Garosugil in Gangnam.

Judging from the matte colors and font it's using, the brand seems to be channeling M.A.C., but has dreamed up some innovative products of its own.

Top recommendation: the cleansing oil cream is a clear jelly that spreads smoothly over skin and wipes off easily. All traces of even the most stubborn of waterproof mascaras are obliterated, and you don't have to deal with the dripping of oil cleansing products.

It's a good gift for women in their twenties -- the brand explicitly states it markets at the 25-year-old. 

₩25,000 (US$23) for 150ml, flagship: Sinsa-dong 545-19, Gangnam-gu, Seoul; +82 2 540 8092; www.vdlcosmetics.com

Great for use in the shower. su:m37 White award detox mask

One of the best-selling products at duty-free stores, this wash-off face mask uses naturally fermented ingredients including the acai berry for deep cleansing, brightening and soothing. Think Bliss Triple Oxygen mask, but with a more calming effect.

Convenient to use in the shower, after cleansing. Cover your entire face with a thick layer, leave on for five to seven minutes, then rinse off.

₩50,000 (US$46) for 100ml; available at most department stores and duty free stores; www.su-m37.co.kr

Why can't women's face masks also have ear hangers? Hera Homme Cell brightening dual essential mask

Korea has the largest mens cosmetics market in the world, and most Korean cosmetic brands have an accompanying mens line.

Beauty editor Cho recommends the Hera Homme Cell brightening dual essential mask for men looking to lighten dull, damaged skin. Contains caffeine, horse chestnut seed extract and Nicotinamide -- a water-soluble vitamin.

₩35,000 (US$32) for five sheets; available at most department stores and duty free stores; www.hera.co.kr

Intensive overnight moisturizing. Laneige Water Sleeping Pack_EX

This best-selling intensive moisturizing mask took top honors at the Cosmo Asian Beauty Awards in 2011 and also received the Allure Korea Best of Beauty Award the same year. We know weary interns at hospitals who swear by this -- it's the only thing that keeps them looking human, they say. 

₩25,000 (US$23), available at Aritaum stores, department stores and duty free stores nationwide; www.laneige.co.kr


Scented body oil, minus the greasiness. illi total aging care body oil

Hair and face products made with traditional Korean medicine ingredients have become massively popular in recent years, and now the trend is extending to body lines as well.

illi is the latest cosmetic brand launched by Amorepacific Group. It features 20 body products across five lines that use ingredients like ginseng, fermented beans, camellia and green tea extract. 

Cho particularly recommends using the body oil on the thighs and stomach.

"There's no stickiness whatsoever, and I've noticed a definite change in my skin texture after I started using it," she says. "When I heard it was a traditional Korean medicine product I thought it would smell like ginseng, but was pleasantly surprised at the subtle floral scent."

₩20,000 for 150ml (US$18); available at all Emart stores nationwide; www.illi.co.kr

Seoulista lips. Hera Rouge Holic in Seoulista

This creamy lipstick goes on divinely and stays on for hours, reminding you why lipstick should make a return over lip gloss -- there's none of that goopy residue that spills out awkwardly over lip lines. The summery Camellia Orange color goes particularly well with darker skin. But the Seoulista -- with its slightly tangerine hue -- is the perfect gift from Seoul.

₩32,000 (US$29); available at most department stores and duty free stores; www.hera.co.kr

Korea's top cosmetic invention. Amorepacific Treatment Color Control Cushion SPF 50+/PA+++ 

It started with the phenom that is BB cream -- a light mix of sunscreen, moisturizer and foundation that was meant to be a quick facial fix.

Then Hera debuted the "mist cushion" -- a moist compact that was an even quicker fix than BB cream.

Amorepacific's new color control cushion -- abbreviated to "CC cushion" -- is the latest, most evolved version that's probably the highlight of all Korean cosmetics combined. Counting bamboo sap and green tea treatment complex as its main ingredients, "it keeps your skin moist while giving you full coverage," raves Cho. 

₩65,000 (US$59); available at most department stores and duty free stores; www.amorepacific.com

Marie Antoinette meets Barbie. Etude House heart blusher

The Forever21 of Korean makeup, Etude House is geared toward the girliest of girls -- and Japanese tourists.

Each store is decorated to look like Barbie's dream closet and everything in it is tiny, pink and heart-shaped.

The lip products here tend to be quite goopy, but the blushes have a great range. They're  so affordable you can buy all the colors you've always wanted to experiment with -- like bright orange or light purple.

The heart blusher -- think Guerlain Meteorites but instead of "pearls" you get candy-like hearts. Most adult women won't think much of the baby pink plastic casing, but teens and tweens will love it. Matching cute pink brushes sold separately. 

₩25,000 (US$23); Etude House has stores on every other street in Korea, but the most in the Myeong-dong shopping district; www.etude.co.kr

Sliding powders. VIDI VICI Small Face Case in All That Face 

VIDI VICI is Korea's most well-known makeup artist Lee Kyung-min's cosmetic line. She designed this small face case herself after seeing her clients' makeup needs, and it's pretty much the coolest single makeup kit ever created.

The round metal case has four sliding layers of face powder, highlighter, cheek blush and shading blush with SPF 15 respectively and is another favorite of beauty editors. The blush is light and natural while the highlighter gives skin a subtle glow. 

₩105,000 (US$95); Cheongdam-dong 129-11 Gangnam-gu; +82 3473 1519; www.vdvc.co.kr

Breeze for spring. VIDI VICI Illumi Styler in 02 Breeze

Although they're not as hefty as the small face cases, the VIDI VICI eyeshadows also come in convenient sliding cases with mirrors. The bright white and pink top layer of the 02 Breeze Illumi Styler, new for spring, is great to use as base shadows. The darker colors tend to crumble easily, so use sparingly.

₩58,000 (US$53); Cheongdam-dong 129-11 Gangnam-gu; +82 3473 1519; www.vdvc.co.kr

Perfect for popping into purses. O HUI eyeliner in Triple Brown

Three little pots of creamy colors make up O HUI's latest eye kit. Rather than three eyeliners, it's actually two cream shadows (colors: golden pink and light brown) and one deep brown eyeliner. It also comes with a mirror and mini-brush -- perfect for travel.

Here's to hoping they'll add a eyeshadow applier to the next version.

₩40,000 (US$36.50), available at most department stores and duty free stores; www.ohui.co.kr

korean cosmetics Must-have for fans of Korean dramas. Laneige Silk Intense Lipstick in Beige Chiffon

Good luck finding a Laneige store that isn't sold out of the Beige Chiffon or the Pink Garden (also recommended). After actress Song Hye-kyo applied the lipstick in a scene in the hottest Korean drama of the moment -- "That Winter, the Wind Blows" -- women across the country rushed Laneige stores. Which also makes this a perfect gift for Korean Wave fans.

₩25,000 (US$23), Aritaum stores, department stores and duty free stores nationwide; www.laneige.co.kr

Party eyeliners for a night out in a new city. CLIO Gelpresso waterproof pencil liner – Bloody series/ travel kit

This would make a fun gift for the "Twilight" fan in your life.

Vampire obsession aside, Clio's new Bloody Series red eyeliners aren't the colors you'd ever think to wear, but actually look great, especially for women with lighter shades of brown hair.

No, they don't make your eyes look bloodshot. The "red" translates into more of a brown on the skin. The Gelpresso mini-series is also great to bring along on your travels, especially if you plan on going out at night.

Our fave: the golden khaki liner.

Gelpresso eyeliner: ₩12,000 (US$11) each; Gelpresso mini series travel kit: ₩15,000 (US$13.50); www.clio.co.kr

Creamy on one end, liquid on the other. The Face Shop Face It Concealer Dual Veil

This double-ended concealer took first place in a blind test on the popular television show "Get it Beauty," and subsequently became a best-seller for The Face Shop.

A creamy cover stick shaped like a lipstick on one end and in liquid form on the other end, the dual concealer covers dark circles and blemishes seamlessly.

Available in three shades of beige.

₩10,900 (US$10); available at the 1,000-plus The Face Shop stores nationwide; www.thefaceshop.com

Vibrating coverage. IPKN Professional Auto Foundation Set

This battery-powered vibrating foundation sponge applier allows you to put your foundation on without getting any on your fingers -- the vibration gives you a smoother, consistent application. Although we're not huge fans of the actual liquid foundation, which comes in a separate compact with a highlighter, the applier itself is a must-have. Once you start using it, you can never go back to manual application.

₩70,000 (US$63), available at Olive Young stores and Watsons stores nationwide; www.ipkn.co.kr
More on CNN: The supermodel's guide: Where to shop in Seoul

A look back on the 737, as Boeing delivers its 7,500th

Posted: 20 Mar 2013 06:41 PM PDT

In the time it takes you to read this story, more than 600 Boeing 737s will have landed or taken off, somewhere in the world.

This week, Boeing delievered its 7,500th 737, to Malaysia-based Malindo Air. There are a further 3,100 orders for 737s, making it the most commercially successful air liner in history.

Boeing's 737 output single-handedly outnumbers the entire Airbus fleet.

And the plane recently got a new engine and a new "Sky Interior."

The hype surrounding Boeing's workhorse can't compare to that of the Airbus A380 (the largest jet ever built) or the Boeing 747-8 (the longest) or the Boeing 787 (the most high-tech). 

It's not glamorous, it's not eccentric, and it's often overshadowed by its bigger, sparklier peers.

But the 737's success lies in its ability to continually reinvent itself. 

The original series

The first 737 -- the 100 model -- entered service in February 1968. With a typical two-class seating capacity of 85 and a range of only 2,850 kilometers, the 737-100 wasn't terribly popular.

Launched simultaneously, however, was the 200 model. With slight increases in length and fuel capacity, the 200 could carry 97 passengers up to 3,500 kilometers on roughly the same amount of fuel.

A far better proposition for airlines, Boeing sold 1,114 of the 200 model, compared with just 30 of its 100s.

Superseding the 737-200 was the 200 Advanced, with technological improvements to thrust-reversal, flaps and two larger, more fuel-efficient engines, giving operators yet another 15 percent increase in payload and range.

The classic era

Boeing 737 with 747It's all about perspective. The 737 is at least 50 meters closer than the 747 in this shot, yet it's still dwarfed. In the early 1980s, Boeing completed its first major overhaul of the jet, with the release of three new models in what is now called the "Classic" series.

The updated aircraft offered more power, more range, more seats and a shiny, new, digital flight deck.

The 737 Classics were up to 36.5 meters long, 20 percent longer than the popular 737-200, and had a range of 4,200 kilometers or more with 25 percent better fuel efficiency.

The catch for the new, more-powerful jets was that they were too big to fit on the wings, resulting in a redesign into a shape aptly dubbed the "hamster pouch."

Even so, the jets still had an uncomfortably shallow 46 centimeter ground clearance.

The Classics also inherited the then-new 757's funky new interior.

All together, 1,988 Boeing 737-300s, -400s and -500s were built.

The next generation

When the Airbus A320 began stealing otherwise loyal 737 operators, Boeing decided on a second major revamp of the 737 brand, launching the Next Generation (NG) series. The company left nothing untouched.

The wingspan on the NG planes is 5.4 meters longer than the Classic design, fuel tanks 30 percent larger and the interior 100 percent cooler.

Carbon brakes are also now standard on NGs, lightening the load by around 300 kilos, helping make the series up to 14 percent more fuel efficient than the Classics.

The NG series introduced the extra-long 900ER ("Extended Range") model. At 42.1 meters, today's biggest 737 is 68 percent longer than the original 100 series aircraft.

So far, more than 6,000 Next-Generation 737s have been ordered, bringing the total number of 737 orders to more than 10,500 since the airplane's launch in 1968.

Decisions, decisions

Boeing 737 ERNewest in the series, the 737-900ER seats double the passengers and flies twice as far as its great-granddaddy.The 737, like any motor vehicle, has come with a number of factory-fitted options, including noise-dampeners for the original 1960s engines, gravel kits to allow the jet to operate on unpaved airstrips and the most noticeable option, blended winglets.

Winglets aren't new, but the upward curve, making it a natural extension of the wing, is a novel approach designed for the Boeing Business Jet version of the 737.

It's now offered as a retrofit on older models and other Boeing aircraft.

Drag-reduction derived from the blended winglets actually reduces noise: less drag means less thrust, means less noise.

Taking it to the MAX

Announced in August and due in 2017, the 737 MAX series will add even larger engines -- 168 centimeters compared with 155 centimeters on the NGs.

It will also be quieter and produce 28 percent more power on 16 percent less fuel than the engines on present-day 737s.

Blended winglets will be standard on all models and the 787 Dreamliner's super-swanky "Sky Interior" will be standard for the 737 MAX.

To boldly go ...

Many of the advances made can be retrofitted to older planes, boosting their efficiency and further extending the useful life of even the Classic series planes. Cheers to Boeing for recycling.

For more on the 737 family, its history and future, go to www.newairplane.com/737.

First published October 2011, updated March 2013

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