Wednesday, February 27, 2013

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Pondicherry: India's brightest new travel star

Posted: 27 Feb 2013 05:55 AM PST

India isn't known for being cool, calm and collected.

So wandering along the seaside promenade at Pondicherry, I'm enjoying the unexpectedly quiet dignity of the place.

The sea is lapping gently on my left, whilst on my right a set of aristocratic buildings line up along a road that has no traffic; amazingly, this seaside promenade is pedestrianized.

Though they left more than half a century ago, France's influence is still very much present in Pondicherry. A family walks past, looking every inch like local Tamils, but my ear picks out something unusual: they're speaking French to each other.

And here's a beachfront café, with a menu that includes croissant au beurre and poisson du jour.

Toward the end of the road is more evidence: a big Alliance Francaise, and across the way a grand old building with Hotel de Ville emblazoned above its arches; these days it's sadly neglected, but it was once the nerve center of what was once an outpost of France.

A seaside town in Tamil Nadu, three hours' drive south of Chennai, Pondicherry also served as the setting for the award-winning book and movie "Life of Pi."

A day after the film directed by Ang Lee nabbed four Academy Awards, the local government tourist office announced plans to develop all 18 sites used in the movie into tourist attractions, according to a report in the Financial Express. Though no statistics are available on the number of tourists inspired by the film to visit Pondicherry, a surge in interest feels inevitable.

More on CNN: How movies boost tourism

Pondicherry was once a rare thing -- a French enclave on Indian shores.

And while the French may have left more than half a century ago, "Le Pondi" still has a distinct identity, the product of the collision of three different worlds.

French colonial enclave

Pondicherry's French-built colonial quarter was a key shoot location in Ang Lee's "Life of Pi."

As a "Life of Pi" pilgrim, I've come to see the place where Yann Martell's eponymous hero, Pi, started his extraordinary physical and spiritual journey.

Christened Piscine Molitor Patel, after a Parisian swimming pool, the hero rebranded himself "Pi" to escape his school nickname -- "Pissy Patel." He described Pondicherry as "one of the most beautiful places on earth."

It still has bags of elegance.

Many of the scenes from the movie were filmed in Pondicherry's French-built seafront colonial quarter, in broad streets shaded by avenues of light-fingered neem trees, lined with shuttered houses, some of whose owners live partly here, and partly in France.

It's such a unique location that it's regularly used as a movie backdrop by Bollywood, Tollywood (Tamil Nadu) and Kollywood (Karnataka). Now it's made it big in Hollywood.

Mini-railway at Pondicherry's Botanical Gardens.This colonial district -- filled with the sound of birds, not motorbikes -- hosts small restaurants and unusual boutiques.

A couple of the former mansions have become heritage hotels, including the L'Orient, the Villa Helena and the Hotel du Parc.

The Botanical Gardens, where Pi's parents had their zoo, was also founded by the French.

I enter by the main gate to be greeted by a sign warning me not to "enrage the honeybees."

Inside, the gardens seem run down and practically deserted, and the heavily advertised "Musical Dancing Fountain" turns out to be neither musical, nor dancing, nor a fountain. I can't spot any honeybees, not even any slightly grumpy ones.

The trees, though, are superb.

Giant African mahogany, towering silk cottons with enormous roots, tangled peepuls and flaming jacarandas. Weaving between them travels a little blue train, with a handful of small boys dreaming of becoming engine drivers, and setting off, like Pi, into the outside world.

The Tamil town 

Pondicherry's Sacred Heart Basilica, a Tamil town highlight. The colonial district is divided from the Tamil town by what locals call the "canal," which is actually more of a storm drain than a permanent watercourse.

Cross that, though, and suddenly life speeds up, particularly along the main artery Rue Jawaharlal Nehru. Streets are narrower, gaudy temples spring up and houses have verandas out front where residents and passersby gather to chat.

One of these properties, the Maison Perumal, has been converted into an elegant boutique hotel.

The largest buildings here are the churches, particularly the Sacred Heart Basilica, where it's standing room only during Sunday services.

Occasionally, a herd of goats is driven through town, a reminder of how close the countryside is. The unlucky ones among them may be heading for the Grand Bazaar, a big covered food market just off Jawaharlal Nehru, where vendors sit behind their piles of fruit, fish and flowers -– and where Pi himself was filmed, pushing through the labyrinth of sights, sounds and smells, following the girl of his dreams.


The meditation zone

Matrimandir, the temple of the mother.

The third and final part of Pondicherry is actually on the northern outskirts of town, and it's the focus of another kind of spiritual journey.

The ashram of Auroville ("City of Dawn") dates back almost to the time of the French, when it was founded as a place where man could come to contemplate his position in the cosmos.

The drive into the multinational "experimental township" is up a sinuous rural road, and you know you're getting near when the frequency of foreigners on motorbikes thickens into a steady stream.

Cars are excluded from the main center, so visitors have to park and walk the rest of the way into what feels like a university campus, albeit with some rather unusual architecture.

Around 300 people live here, but there are many more guesthouses lining the access roads, so there can be as many as 12,000 visitors on site on a busy day. Not that it feels like a crowd, because Auroville is widely spread and incorporates 14 farms.

Its focal points are its meditation centers. The one that everyone heads for is the Matrimandir, the temple of the mother, a huge golden globe which looks like something that has just landed from another planet.

Although Auroville is happy to receive drive-by visitors –- I was there for a couple of hours, nosing around, looking at the notices, people-watching, drinking tea in one of the cafés –- you don't get to go inside the Matrimandir without committing to a couple of days on site.

Getting there

Pondicherry (Puducherry) is 135 kilometers south of Chennai in Tamil Nadu, and can by reached by express bus and train. A car service in Auroville (www.aurovilletransport.com) does airport pickups from Chennai for around US$35.

Heritage organization Intach leads guided walks (+91 (0)413 2225991), as does the Pondicherry tourist board (+91 (0)413 2339497).

Auroville is 7 kilometers north of the center, off Chennai road. There's a visitors center on site with exhibitions, information and bicycles for rent. Anyone wanting to stay overnight should email avguests@auroville.org.in

 

Insider Guide: Best of Cancún

Posted: 27 Feb 2013 02:00 AM PST

Yes, Cancún's been fighting a Girls Gone Wild image for years, and it's true the Corona flows freely at bargain-rate all-inclusive hotels.

But there's more to Mexico's Caribbean capital than wet T-shirts and shooters.

As Mexico's most profitable beach destination, Cancún draws international sophisticates to work and play. Top-notch chefs add a regional Mexican flair to cuisines from throughout the Pacific Rim. Visitors who've done the whole ay-ay-ay scene have refined their quest for the requisite tequila, sipping rather than slamming their shots.

A new Maya Museum adds some cultural depth to the sun and fun scene.

But let's be real -- in the end, it's that amazing aquamarine water, talcum-soft sand and dazzling sunlight that will always define Cancún.

Print and go -- Our traveler-friendly one-page guide here: Best of Cancún

Hotels

Mexico's only Ritz-Carlton. Ritz-Carlton

Glistening chandeliers and Old World oil portraits might not be the norm in Cancún, but the Ritz pulls off its trademark elegance by adding local touches like tequila and regional wine tastings, Mexican cooking classes in a slick Culinary Center and volunteer opportunities in Mayan communities.

Guests wear cargo shorts and ball caps as they depart on tours, but spiff up nicely with slinky sundresses and linen slacks to enjoy some of Cancún's finest bars and restaurants without ever leaving the property.

For extra romance, you can book a casita on the sand for a barefoot candlelit dinner.

36 Retorno del Rey, Zona Hotelera; +52 998 881 0808; rooms from 5,099.70 pesos (US$399); www.ritzcarlton.com

 

The Le Blanc claims a ratio of approximately one staff member per guest. You can sneak one in your bag on the way out! Le Blanc Spa Resort

With its virginal white décor, Zen-like ambiance and minimalist style, Le Blanc could be a retreat for cloistered nuns -- if it weren't for that pesky sexy vibe encouraging hedonistic grownup getaways.

Setting the standard for luxury all-inclusives, the resort offers a butler on each floor to draw bubble baths, uncork champagne and fulfill romantic fantasies (within reason).

Minimalist white and cream rooms have double Jacuzzis, double Swiss showers and ocean-view balconies (only a few are oceanfront).

Five restaurants span the gamut from gourmet French to sushi, offering opportunities for dressing up or down. Bamboo gardens edge the spa, where couples treatment rooms and massage tables for two encourage intimacy. Singles: look elsewhere.

Boulevard Kukulcán, Kilometer 10, Zona Hotelera; +52 998 881 4740; rooms from 9,500 pesos (US$746) all-inclusive for two; www.leblancsparesort.com

 

An anything-but-typical single suite at Live Aqua. Live Aqua

Though other "hip" hotels have opened in Cancún, the Aqua's many advantages keep it in the lead.

Electronic gadgets and sophisticated in-room entertainment systems please techies, while whirlpool tubs and ocean views from plush beds soothe escapists.

Scarlet macaws swoop above sparkling pools. Aromatherapy scents linger in elevators. Aboriginal drumming echoes throughout the spa.

One of the seven on-premise restaurants boasts tiled portraits of Frida Kahlo and other celebs; another specializes in tropical fish, fruit and chile ceviches.

All such pampering is covered in the all-inclusive room rate. Extra splurges include spa treatments, high-end alcohol and some gourmet meals.

Boulevard Kukulcán, Kilometer 12.5, Zona Hotelera; +52 998 881 4740; rooms from 6,600 pesos (US$517) all-inclusive for two; www.feel-aqua.com

 

Club room with ocean view. Inter-Continental Presidente

Back when Cancún was but a glimmer in investors' eyes, the Mexican government chose a few prime beaches for the town's first fancy hotels. The Presidente was one of the originals, and though it's been around for three decades it hasn't lost its elite standing.

Bellmen greet returning guests like old friends and Mexican hospitality rules from the front desk to the restaurants and pools.

A recent $8 million remodel modernized the minimalist rooms, adding deep soaking tubs to some and window-seat couches to others.

The old-timers' prescience is most evident at sunset. Unlike most Cancún resorts, the Presidente faces northwest, capturing vivid sunset views best enjoyed at the Deck Bar with a mango margarita.

Boulevard Kukulcán, Kilometer 7.5; +52 998 848 8700; rooms from 3,769 pesos (US$295); www.ichotelsgroup.com

 

Dining

The Club Grill's interior is patterned after an old English jazz club. We didn't even know that was a thing. The Club Grill

Exquisite cuisine, an outstanding wine list, impeccable service and glamorous décor keep the Grill at the top of all best lists.

Chef Juan Pablo de la Sota keeps menus fresh by spicing his duck with chipotle sweet potato puree and expanding the soufflé selection to sweet coconut -- though the Gran Marnier version's hard to beat. Sommmeliers decant fine French, Spanish and South American wines -- plus a few Mexican vintages you won't find elsewhere.

Diners in Cancun's most formal attire (sans ties) begin their evenings in the Grill's martini bar, linger through dinner and end with a turn or two on the adjacent dance floor as the jazz band kicks up the beat.

36 Retorno del Rey, Zona Hotelera; +52 998 881 0808; expensive; www.ritzcarlton.com

 

Crème brûlée with fruit, gingerbread and edible flowers. Le Chique

With a running time longer than the latest blockbuster, the 14-course dining experience at Le Chique is well worth the 15-minute drive south to Puerto Morelos.

Chef Jonatan Gomez Luna draws upon his training at Spain's stellar El Bulli and El Celler Can Roca to tantalize diners with Campari-infused cherries, black truffle "marshmallows," foie gras crème brulee and a seemingly endless procession of waiters bearing sensory delights.

Burgundy curtains, leather furnishings and lots of twinkling lights serve as a dramatic backdrop for the adults-only $150 per-person culinary production, including 14 courses and seven wine pairings.

Guests at the Azul Sensatori Resort, home to Le Chique, pay a mere 320 pesos (US$25) for the same experience.

Carretera Cancun-Puerto Morelos, Kilometer 27.5, Bahia Petempich, Puerto Morelos; +52 998 872 8450; expensive; www.karismahotels.com

 

Puerto Madero harks back to the meat palaces of the Río Plata, complete with the heady aromas of sizzling steaks, garlicky chimichurri and fried potatoes. Puerto Madero

When it's time for full-on beef overload, Puerto Madero is Cancún's pocket of porteño-style indulgence.

Candles flicker, crystal sparkles and animated voices raise the energy level in the expansive dining room, while outdoor lagoon-side tables with the lights of downtown across the water are better suited for intimate conversation.

In either, you're sure to see impossibly sleek model-types bumping cheeks as they work the crowd.

Juicy cuts of beef demand classic accompaniments like thick tomato and onion slices, puffy soufflé potatoes and grilled asparagus.

A robust Mendoza Malbec makes sense, though the wine list has many other vintages from Mexico, Chile and Spain. It'd be a shame to skip the crepas con cajeta or alfajores for a finishing touch.

Boulevard Kukulcán, Kilometer 12.5 Zona Hotelera; +52 998 885 2829; moderate; www.puertomaderorestaurantes.com

 

All these years later, La Habichuela remains a family business. La Habichuela Sunset

Beloved downtown for more than two decades, La Habichuela has opened a dreamy Mayan-influenced refuge in the raucous hotel zone.

White wrought iron chairs cluster around candlelit tables beneath backlit replicas of Mayan deities and stelae in a garden setting reminiscent of a Yucatecan hacienda.

That influence extends to a menu of shrimp with huitlacoche (a truffle-like corn fungus), cream of habichuela (bean) soup or the aphrodisiacal Xtabentun Honey Coculnich Cocktail. Flames flare as waiters prepare classic crepas con cajeta.

Though Mexicans usually dine after 8 or 9 p.m., La Habichuela Sunset lives up to its name with glorious golden skies at dusk, leaving time afterward to claim a prime booth at one of the nearby clubs.

Boulevard Kukulcán, Kilometer 12.6,  Zona Hotelera; +52 998 840 6280; moderate; www.lahabichuela.com

 

Nightlife

The Lobby Lounge offers more than 100 varieties of tequila -- you might want to spread your tasting over a couple of days. Lobby Lounge

A one-stop shop for post-prandial entertainment, the Ritz-Carlton's Lobby Lounge seduces guests with its crimson glow and plush settees.

In one area, a tequilero pours sipping tequilas during an enlightening tasting, while a mixologist blends impeccable Manhattans at the bar.

Chic young things cluster beneath the golden onyx wall in the Clau Lounge, while cigar aficionados savor hand-rolled Cuban and Mexican cigars on the lounge's terrace beneath midnight-blue skies.

As the hours slide by, the Latin band picks up the beat, encouraging drinkers to shed their suit jackets, leave their corners and mingle on the dance floor.

36 Retorno del Rey, Zona Hotelera; +52 998 881 0808; expensive; www.ritzcarlton.com

 

With acrobatics, conga lines, live bands, DJ's and projected movie clips, CoCoBongo is like Cirque du Sol. CoCoBongo

Yes, it's tacky and touristy. But a near-capacity crowd (1,800 max) packs this Cancún landmark most nights.

Perhaps it's the high-energy, Vegas-style shows that make CocoBongo irresistible, or the let-loose dancing style that keeps the multi-level dance floors filled till dawn.

No musical icon is safe from CoCoBongo's choreographers. Shows cover hits from KISS to Sinatra. Bungees and tightropes are part of the scene as acrobats swoop and dive overhead. Every imaginable legal stimulant appears as film clips play on massive video screens beneath pulsing, flashing lights.

Bubbles, balloons and confetti douse dancers and fog rises from the floors in a phantasmagoria sure to enhance dreams -- when sleep finally comes.  

Boulevard Kukulkán, Kilometer 9.5; +52 998 883 5061; moderate; www.cocobongo.com.mx

 

El Rincón del Vino

Cancún seems far away when there's flamenco strumming, rioja in the glass, fondue pots on the tabletops and a polyglot murmur in the background.

European travelers gravitate to El Rincón as if on autopilot, drawn by the aromas of melted cheese, Iberian ham, pulpo and olive oil. Guests wander around the wine cellar, checking out price tags before choosing the night's bottle, returning again and again as the music segues from jazz to rock and conversation levels peak.

Black goes best for the casually sophisticated crowd -- no trashy T-shirts here.

Nadar 88, El Centro; +52 998 241 2961; budget; www.elrincondelvino.com.mx

 

Rose Bar's seaside terrace. Rose Bar

With  "aura managers" overseeing the resort's "everything is possible" ethos, you can be sure management does its darndest to make sure the hotel's Rose Bar is the place to find international DJs and celebs amid swank locals.

Channeling South Beach and Ibiza, the mood is loungy and sensual, especially during Friday Ladies Nights. While mash-up mixes throb indoors, cigar aficionados gather on the Rose Bar Deck.

Cancunenses don their slinkiest sundresses and long pants for a night out here -- shorts are frowned upon.

Boulevard Kukulkán, Kilometer 12; +52 998 881 2500; moderate; www.me-cancun.com

 

Shopping

Hot chocolate made with amor. Ah Cacao

In the land of global mediocrity, this small chocolate shop and café stands out for its main product -- intense and rare criollo chocolate, the Maya's "food of the gods," in bars, cocoa or roasted beans.

The small café with a few outdoor and indoor tables and free Wi-Fi serves rich, addicting brownies and frothy hot chocolate whipped with a traditional molinillo (wooden whisk).

Chocolate bars, cocoa, whisks and other accoutrements make great souvenirs.

Kilometer 12.5, Zona Hotelera; +52 998 883 1927; daily 8 a.m.-11:30 p.m.; www.ahcacao.com

 

Or buy the beach bag here too! Sabores de Mexico

When it comes to the flavors of Mexico, this sweet shop is the real deal.

Owner Erandeni Abundis travels the country, collecting mole, mezcal and chapulines (fried grasshoppers) in Oaxaca, Chihuahua cheese, nata (like a thick whipped cream) cookies from Queretaro and homemade mermeladas and salsa that bring a taste of home to Mexican transplants working in Cancún.

Abundis also works with indigenous cooperativas, selling their silky woven rebozos (shawls), embroidered huipiles (blouses from Chiapas) and regional pottery.

Local Maya communities provide homemade soaps, shampoos, creams and even an efficient cough syrup made out of bugambilia, onion, honey and cinnamon. Pile your purchases into a woven beach bag and you're good to go.

Avenida Cancún (also known as Las Torres), SM 510 Mza. 54 Lote 2, El Centro; +52 998 251 3841

 

Nierika

Traditional Huichol necklace. Named after an indigenous Huichol term denoting the passage and barrier between the physical and spiritual worlds, this shop by the crowded Mercado 28 is packed with high quality folk art.

There's an especially impressive selection of beaded masks, figurines and wall hangings made by the Huichol, who live in the high Sierras and use peyote as a religious sacrament.

A wide selection of whimsical painted alebrijes (wood creatures) from Oaxaca, handcrafted silver jewelry, handblown glass and art books make this a collector's delight.

Avenida Xelha Smz 28 Mz 3; +52 998 206 1280; www.nierika.com.mx

 

Maya-inspired scarf. Pineda Covalin

Cancún's hotel zone has so many shopping centers it looks like a U.S. suburb.

Luxury Avenue is the glitziest, filled with baubles and shiny things.

Amid the international standards is a Pineda Covalin boutique, carrying the designer's silk masterpieces. Intricate indigenous designs swirl around silk scarves, purses, neckties, even shoes.

Like kaleidoscopic mandalas, the brilliant designs are nearly too beautiful to wear -- but they'll definitely be noticed at your next soiree.

Boulevard Kukulkán, Kilometer 13, Zona Hotelera; +52 998 840 6100; www.luxuryavenue.com

 

Attractions

The Museo Maya de Cancún is single-handedly making Cancún a cultural destination. Museo Maya de Cancún

Just in time for the much ballyhooed and misunderstood Mayan renaissance, Cancún finally acquired a viable cultural institution.

Designed by Alberto Garcia Lascuráin for the National Institute of Anthropology and History (INAH), the new Maya Museum puts the Yucatán Peninsula's history into perspective with an entryway exhibit of 14,000-year-old skeletal remains discovered at Tulum in the early 21st century.

Carvings, statues, jewelry and household tools from the many Maya sites near Cancún fill display cases in mock pyramid and temple buildings beside the recently opened San Miguelito archeological site in the middle of the hotel zone.

Boulevard Kukulkán, Kilometer 16, Zona Hotelera; +52 998 885 3842; closed Mondays; admission 57 pesos (US$5); www.inah.gob.mx

 

Named for the many images of Maya goddesses the Spanish discovered upon their arrival. Isla Mujeres

Just eight miles across the sea, this laid-back island is the antithesis of busy Cancún.

Locals and visitors putter about in electric golf carts and motos (scooters), cruising the five-mile-long island at speeds that would drive the average New York cabbie crazy.

The island's main beach, Playa Norte is one of the Caribbean's loveliest, with shallow translucent water, sugary white sand and enough space to give everyone room to roam.

Snorkeling, swimming and hanging about in hammocks are the preferred activities at the Garrafón Natural Reef Resort, an eco-park with a pool, zip line, changing rooms and restaurant.

A sculpture garden at the southern tip of the island leads to the Cliff of Dawn, said to be the first place the sun rises in Mexico.

Isla's downtown pedestrian-only streets are lined with quirky cafes and shops carrying everything from Guatemalan textiles to Balinese pareos. It may have evolved some since its hippie, anything-goes days, but Isla Mujeres is still Mexico's funkiest Caribbean hideaway.

Ferries depart from Puerto Juárez and El Embarcadero in the hotel zone; 190 pesos (US$15) round trip, per person; www.isla-mujeres.net

 

The park was rebuilt in 2008, putting to rest its erstwhile reputation for illicit activity. Parque de las Palapas

Being less than 40 years old, Cancún's central plaza lacks the Old World charm of the picturesque squares in colonial cities like Mérida and Oaxaca, but it's still the central gathering point in El Centro, or downtown Cancún.

On weekend afternoons and evenings families gather here just like they do all over the country. Vendors sell steaming corn on the cob slathered in mayonnaise (try it!), French fries doused with hot sauce and tacos with more flavor than you'll find at tourist restaurants.

Live bands usually perform on Friday nights and Sunday afternoons, and there's a good chance you'll stumble upon a crafts fair or civic event.

Bordered by Avenidas Tulum, Yaxchilán, Uxmal, and Cobá, Sm 22, El Centro

 

Underwater Cancún

You can't be this surrounded by water and not place an emphasis on the deep. Here's how the under half lives ... 

Playa Delfines. On the Beach

Massive hotels claim much of the beachfront property along Cancún's hotel zone, but all beaches are public in Mexico and you're free to wander wherever you wish.

Timid swimmers are happiest splashing about in the calm waters off the north side of the zone facing Bahía de Mujeres. Playa Tortugas and Playa Linda are popular with local families and especially fun on weekend afternoons.

After Punta Cancún, the hotel zone's beaches face the open sea. Playa Gaviota and Chac Mool, behind several of Cancún's most popular clubs, are party central, with beach bars, sand volleyball games and primo people watching.

The scene varies along the subsequent hotel lineup, with parasails, banana boats and waverunners in some areas and quiet, private cabanas in others. Beyond the hotel chain, Playa Delfines, at the southern end of Boulevard Kukulcán, is a popular public playground with beautiful views and plenty of sunbathing space. Locals flock here when the surf's up, as there are few places to surf in Cancún.

Cancún's dazzling white, cool, soft sand washed away during Hurricane Wilma in 2005. Subsequent extensive beach recovery programs with cream-colored sand have restored the hotel zone's long, broad beaches, which, set against the brilliant aquamarine Caribbean, are nothing short of gorgeous.

 

Everywhere in Cancún is an excuse to party. Museo Subacuático de Arte (MUSA)

It sounds eerie at first, this garden of life-sized sculptures rising from the sea floor in a national marine reserve between Cancún and Isla Mujeres. But British artist Jason deCaires Taylor's underwater sculpture garden has brought new life to the reefs nearly loved to death by thousands of divers.

Coral formations are now growing on the first statues, submerged in 2010, and lobsters -- who'd virtually disappeared from these waters -- now gather within a mock VW bug.

Since some of the 400 statues sit just 10 feet underwater, they're visible from the surface. Snorkeling amid the waving purple sea fans and angelfish is easy, and divers need only go 28 feet underwater to see the whole display.

Boulevard Kukulkán, Kilometer 15.2, Zona Hotelera; +52 998 848 8327; tours daily; rates start at 575 pesos (US$45); www.aquaworld.com.mx

 

Interactive Aquarium

At this air-conditioned indoor water world, divers with underwater microphones point out seahorses, eels, clownfish and jellyfish in a ceiling-high aquarium.

Touchy-feely types can stroke rays and starfish in outdoor tanks, and true daredevils feed sharks while immersed in an acrylic cage.  

Boulevard Kukulkán, Kilometer 12.5, Zona Hotelera; +52 998 883 0411; daily 9 a.m.-6 p.m.; admission 128 pesos (US$10); www.aquariumcancun.com.mx

Our traveler-friendly one-page guide here: Best of Cancún

Cheap and cheerful skiing, Czech-style

Posted: 26 Feb 2013 10:00 PM PST

Skiing in Czech RepublicTypical Bublava. Empty runs, great powder. The nagging dread of every parent who books an expensive "activity holiday" is that their child -- particularly if he or she is of the difficult, fussy variety -- arrives at a far-flung destination and ruins the vacation by taking an instant dislike to sailing or climbing or whatever else was promised.

Aside from the obvious parental emotional suffering, such anti-activity behavior can represent thousands of dollars down the drain.

With this in mind, I'd always resisted the pleas of my sporty, but of the difficult, fussy variety, 12-year-old son to take him skiing.

Skiing in Czech Republic What if he hated it, and we'd be left sitting in a café on a snowy mountain sipping cocoa for a week? While that may be one pretty hot chocolate vista, I can get the same sort effect in hometown, Brighton, minus some snow-capped peaks.

Foremost in my mind were "distant" and frightening skiing holidays in the French Alps, where the sky seemed to be the limit in terms of costs.

Perhaps it was more a question for me, how much do I bank on my son actually enjoying what he says he wants to do?

Frugal fun

When my friend Robin suggested my son and I join him and his two boys on a skiing trip to the Czech Republic, I was amazed. My first reaction: "Can you even ski in that country?" I'd certainly never heard of the possibility.
 
Robin assured me that while Czech ski resorts are tiny compared with those in the Alps or Austria, they're great for beginners.

The domineering accountant side of me was even more receptive when he explained that the cost of the expedition would be a fraction of what it would be if we were going to the Alps.

Even better, he owns a house near the small ski resort of Bublava in Western Bohemia, so we didn't have to shell out for accommodation.

Keeping to my life-shaping budget principles, I scored round-trip easyJet flights for two people from London Gatwick to Prague for £150 (US$227). Upon arrival, we hired a Volkswagen Golf estate car, our share of which cost £100. Two five-day lift passes were £85, while ski and boot hire came to £100. I booked ski lessons for my son from an English-speaking instructor, at £24 each; after just two sessions the cocky lad decided he didn't need any more.

The price for the whole trip, excluding food and drink, was a very reasonable £500 (US$760). I couldn't have been happier.

Also on CNN: Europe's best budget ski resorts

We were, of course, fortunate that we didn't have to worry about accommodation, yet even if we had stayed in a hotel, it wouldn't have broken the Bank of Wilkinson: a twin room in an upmarket hotel just a few hundred meters from the ski slope was about £40 (US$60) a night.

Skiing in Czech RepublicDad was too tight to get his son sunglasses and a beanie.

 

Optimal conditions

Enough about the costs though; the most important aspect was the skiing experience.

Not that planning had anything to do with it, but we timed it right, visiting the Czech Republic during a cold spell. The snow covering was excellent at about 12 to 20 inches. The daytime temperature was about -8C (17 degrees F) which meant the snow remained powdery and there was no ice -- an important consideration, especially for beginners and intermediate skiers such as us.

Given how close it is to the border, Bublava is a small resort popular with German skiers, with just four runs -- a black, two reds and a blue -- as well as a nursery slope.

Even though we visited during school holidays, there were relatively few people around -- a fraction of the numbers you'd expect at more established ski resorts.

This meant the arch-enemy of skiing, the lift queues, were mercifully short.

The surrounding countryside was beautiful and unspoiled and we found the whole experience relaxing.

Czech skiing is a world away from the ostentatious Alps. Everyone was friendly and all levels of ability were accommodated. My son's instructor was friendly and helpful, despite his limited English.

We enjoyed the skiing, and when we tired of Bublava's four runs, we drove a few miles to the neighboring resort of Stribrna, which had a beautiful cross-country red run on which we didn't encounter a single person. (There's also a difficult black run.) Although that excursion cost just a few pounds, it would have been more convenient to incorporate it into the Bublava lift pass.

Several other ski resorts are also within a short drive.

More on CNN: 7 magnificent European ski lodges

If there was one downside to the Czech skiing experience, it was that the food served in the bars and cafés near the slopes was at best average, really little better than the fare you might expect from a roadside café.

Washing it down, another story. Czech beer is excellent in taste and value (just 30 karuna/US$1.50) for a half-liter.

See you next year

Far from the trauma I feared, Bublava was brilliant and might reshape how I evaluate future activity-based vacations.

I'd have no hesitation about returning to the Czech Republic for skiing, though those planning a ski vacation need to ask what they're after.

If money isn't the priority, and you want the very best and widest range of skiing and après-ski socializing, then go to the United States, Austria or the Alps.

But if you're on a tight budget, or want something thoroughly un-flashy and a bit different, consider the Czech Republic.

And for the record, my son loved skiing and quickly developed a "no-fear" approach to descending the slopes. If any of Bublava's skiers were crashed into by a pack of over-confident English boys, I apologize. Be warned, we'll be back next year!
 
Bublavais one of the smaller Czech ski resorts. Other main resorts include Spindleruv Mlyn, Bozi Dar and Klinovec.

The nearest airport to Bublava is Prague. Although there are bus services, the easiest way to get there is by renting a car -- it's a two-hour drive from the airport. Check www.bublava.cz (Czech or German only) or www.svejk-bublava.cz for accommodation options and more information.

The Czech ski season runs from December to early April.

Bear Grylls stars in latest Air New Zealand safety video

Posted: 26 Feb 2013 08:57 PM PST

Hot on the heels of the smart "Hobbit" in-flight safety message, Air New Zealand has done it again with its latest video that cleverly combines safety with nature via survival guru Bear Grylls.

The new video, "Bear Essentials of Safety," captures Grylls -- the famed British adventurer and host of "Man vs. Wild" -- delivering important safety messages while tracking the extinct flightless Moa bird in the South Island of New Zealand.

It took the film crew three days to film the somewhat lengthy four-and-a-half-minute video along the Routeburn Track, a 32-kilometer trail on the southern tip of the South Island.

As such, there are no actual shots of a plane interior. Rather plane seats and passengers appear at various stunning outdoor locations, as you can see in the video.

More on CNN: Surviving the world with Bear Grylls

Air New Zealand safety video Bear GryllsGrylls -- with a mandatory dirt-covered face -- takes the latest Air New Zealand safety video, and a weird fish in his backpack, into the wild

The video features Grylls being Grylls, stowing a fish in an overhead bin (a moss-covered hole in a rock), eating the exit path lighting (glow worms) and oxygen masks falling from a tree, which Grylls described as a could-be "portable loo."

"Bear was the ideal partner to help us bring to life important on-board safety messages in a unique and compelling way, while at the same time demonstrating the best of what New Zealand has to offer," says Mike Tod, Air New Zealand's chief marketing and customer officer.

"We hope the global attention this safety video will receive generates more awareness of our amazing country and gets a few more bums on seats," he says.

"The video builds perfectly off the back of the strong imagery generated globally by 'The Hobbit: An Unexpected Journey' and was worth the logistical challenges involved to create it."

Air New Zealand safety video Bear GryllsThe Moa. The reference in the video to the extinct Kiwi bird may be lost on non-locals.

The video also has a cast of native New Zealand creatures including a Kea, a Tuatara, glow worms, a 'Moa' and Kiwi entomologist Ruud Kleinpaste, also known as the Bug Man.

Viewers who pay attention to the video and answer a simple question on this website will have a chance to win two tickets to New Zealand for a 10-day adventure trip that combines six items from the Great Kiwi Bucket List.

Air New Zealand safety video Bear GryllsSure beats looking at computer-generated images that a lot of other airlines use.

The "Bear Essentials of Safety" will be rolled out on-board all international and domestic flights from Wednesday.

More on CNN: Air New Zealand's genius 'Hobbit' safety video

What a wonderful world -- 12 fabulous gardens

Posted: 26 Feb 2013 06:02 PM PST

An amazing garden is more than just flowers.

Case in point: history and botany mix with landscape design and architecture in these 12 fabulous gardens around the world.

Butchart Gardens: British Columbia, Canada

Butchart GardensPerfect place to reflect.

When Jennie Butchart's husband, a manufacturer of Portland cement, told her in 1904 that they'd exhausted the limestone in the quarry, the door was opened to create what would later become one of Canada's notable tourist attractions.

The Butchart Gardens near Victoria in British Columbia were created within that disused quarry.

Featured here is the Edwardian-style Sunken Garden, with a lake where reflections of multi-colored foliage surrounding it take on a beauty of their own. 

www.butchartgardens.com

Hershey Gardens: Pennsylvania, United States

Hershey GardensNo such thing as color clash in nature.

When the chocolate magnate Milton S. Hershey decided to create a thing of beauty to be enjoyed by residents of "his" town in Pennsylvania, the result was Hershey Gardens, opened in 1937.

A notable feature is the Butterfly House, home to hundreds of North American butterflies, in which visitors can observe the entire life cycle of the butterfly from egg to adult.

www.hersheygardens.org

The Royal Botanic Gardens: London

Royal Botanic Gardens A piece of the tropics in London.

On a bend of the Thames at Kew in southwest London, the Royal Botanic Gardens was listed as a World Heritage Site in 2003, acknowledging its contributions to botanical and environmental science since 1759.

The Temperate House is the world's largest surviving Victorian glass structure. An iron-framed greenhouse dating from the 19th century, it was to become a model for conservatories around the world. 

www.kew.org

Also on CNNGo: London's World Heritage Sites: 5 ways to get cerebral

Abbey Garden island: Isles of Scilly, United Kingdom

Tresco Abbey GardenThe world in plants.

Two and a half miles long by a mile wide, Tresco is one of the Scilly Isles, off the coast of England. Here, next to the ruins of an old priory, the Abbey Garden was created in the 1800s.

It features some of the finest outdoor specimens of subtropical flora and fauna to be found in the Northern Hemisphere, including great spiky agaves from the Mexican desert, brilliant Spear Lilies from Australia's Queensland coast, King Proteas from South Africa and huge South American bromeliads from the Andes.

www.tresco.co.uk

Monet Garden: Giverny, France

Giverny Monets GardenWorld's most artistic garden? Claude Monet, one of the founders of the French Impressionist painting movement, bought a house and land in the village of Giverny in 1890 and set about establishing the gardens that were to provide inspiration for his art.

The often-painted garden is famous for its water lilies, ponds and bridge and is a popular destination for art tours.

giverny.org or www.avalonwaterways.com


Luisium Castle Garden: Dessau, Germany

Luisium Castle GardenTwo and a half centuries of beauty.

"I was deeply moved as we strolled through the lakes, canals and woods by how the gods have allowed the Prince to create a dream around himself." That's how Johann Wolfgang von Goethe described this place in 1778.

Now known as the Garden Kingdom Dessau-Woerlitz in Germany, it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2000.

The Snake House, so called because of the shape of its gutters, was a retreat for Louise, the wife of Prince Franz of Anhalt-Dessau.

www.gartenreich.com

Egeskov Castle Garden: Funen, Denmark

Egeskov CastleBeautiful form the outside, frustrating on the inside.

Egeskov Castle is a beautifully preserved Renaissance castle in Denmark. The old grounds, covering 20 hectares, have been divided into a number of impressive gardens that won the European Garden Award in 2012.

Among the gardens are four hedge mazes, so one should allow time for getting lost.

www.egeskov-slot.dk

Peterhof Palace Garden: St. Petersburg

Peterhof PalaceAt the Peterhof Palace Garden, the keyword is spectacular.

The World Heritage listed Peterhof Palace in St. Petersburg, Russia, was built on the orders of Peter the Great and mostly completed by 1725. Its palaces and formal gardens were modeled on Versailles.

They feature a multitude of fountains.

The image above looks across the Grand Cascade and Samson Fountain through a canal and gardens to the sea.

www.saint-petersburg.com

Kenrokuen: Kanazawa, Japan

KenrokuenCherry blossoms, bridges, streams. Nothing not to like.

Kenrokuen is considered to be one of Japan's "three most beautiful landscape gardens."

It was formerly the outer garden of Kanazawa Castle. From the 1620s to 1840s, various rulers added waterfalls, a teahouse, winding paths, streams and bridges.

The garden was opened to the public in the 1870s.

www.pref.ishikawa.jp

Also on CNNGo: Size matters: Super trees to dominate Singapore's largest gardens

Christchurch Botanic Gardens: Christchurch, New Zealand

Christchurch Botanic Gardens"I think I can hear the sea."

Founded in 1863 with the planting of an English Oak and now featuring many trees over 120 years old, the Botanic Gardens in Christchurch, New Zealand, survived the city's major earthquake in 2011.

One quintessential experience, reminiscent of England, is to punt along the River Avon through the gardens.

www.ccc.govt.nz

Hotel Icon: Hong Kong

Hotel IconPicnics impossible.

"Do plants really need soil? No, they don't; only water and the many minerals dissolved in it are essential to plants, together with light and carbon dioxide to conduct photosynthesis." So says Frenchman Patrick Blanc.

The 230-square-meter vertical garden he's created at the Hotel Icon in Hong Kong, the largest indoor vertical garden in Asia, proves his thesis.

www.hotel-icon.com

Storybook Garden: Sydney

Storybook GardenEvery garden has a story. Thought gardens were only for adults?

The sculpted figures in the Storybook Garden at Hunter Valley Gardens north of Sydney, will dispel that idea. 

Having enjoyed the Mad Hatters Tea Party, checked in on Jack and Jill as they rolled downhill and watched Humpty Dumpty perch precariously atop the wall, the small child above appears mesmerized by a garden that's as ageless as it is timeless.

www.hvg.com.au

Man overboard? Aussie tycoon insists 'Titanic II' a good idea

Posted: 26 Feb 2013 04:32 PM PST

"You don't back a horse called Striding Snail, you don't name your boat Titanic II."

Sound advice from the 1996 Beautiful South tune, "Little Blue."

One man, however, seems hell bent on ignoring such plain folk wisdom in an audacious pursuit to rewrite history.

At a Tuesday press event in New York, Australian billionaire chairman of Blue Star Line shipping company Clive Palmer unveiled blueprints for his company's planned Titanic II, an exact replica of the haunted 1912 cruise liner that … well, you've seen the movie.

Palmer claims Titanic II will be the safest cruise ship in the world when it sets sail in 2016 from Southampton, England, bound for New York City, following the ill-fated Titanic's original planned route.

The press event, held at New York's Intrepid Sea, Air & Space Museum, was part of an ongoing campaign to promote the Titanic II launch. Blue Star held a "Titanic II Gala Dinner" at the Venetian in Macau earlier this month to drum up interest among wealthy Chinese.

As reported in May 2012, Palmer has commissioned a Chinese shipyard to build the replica ship.

The mining magnate won't say exactly how much money he's sunk into the project, but he doesn't appear worried about those who might be leery about boarding such a dubiously named vessel. Palmer says he's received offers of up to US$1 million for passage on the ship's maiden voyage.

We assume that's not for steerage.

No word yet on deck chair arrangements.

Sydney hotels: 7 stays for 7 types of travelers

Posted: 26 Feb 2013 02:00 PM PST

When it comes to Sydney style and hospitality, there are heaps of hotels to choose from.

Heritage, designer, swanky or boutique, they're all a quick leap from the city's best shopping, eating and party venues. 

Here are seven stays for seven (or more) types of travelers, arranged in order of ascending rates.

Diamant Hotel 

Diamant's 365-square-meter penthouse comes with two private terraces.For: Night owls and business travelers

If you're planning a few big nights in Kings Cross, Potts Point or Darlinghurst, the Diamant Hotel is the obvious pick.

Boutique lodging comes in 76 rooms and suites, including newly launched apartments ranging from one- to three-bedroom and penthouse configurations, with property-wide WiFi included in the cost of the room.

Deluxe rooms are comfortable enough, but to enjoy the fresh air without leaving the door open, courtyard rooms and suites offer spacious terraces to lounge around on.

For longer stays, the apartments are equipped with a kitchenette and 60-inch plasma screen.

The 365-square-meter penthouse comes with two private terraces with city and harbor views.

This is a rooms-only property, but there are plenty of cafes, shops, bars and restaurants in the area.

14 Kings Cross Road, Potts Point; +61 (0)2 9295 8888; US$175 per night; www.8hotels.com/diamantsydney

More on CNN: Top Sydney restaurant-bars with a view

Fraser Suites 

Serviced apartments -- just like hotels, but with way more space. For: Long-stayers and families

If you believe "location, location, location" makes or breaks a property, Fraser Suites is your spot.

It's near Town Hall with Darling Harbour and Hyde Park within walking distance. There's also direct access to Regent Place, a retail complex with food, fashion and salons, plus loads of other restaurants in the vicinity.

The 42-story, Sir Norman Foster-designed building houses 201 hotel suites and apartments ranging from studios to two-bedroom duplex penthouses.

Most apartments feature a separate living area, washing machine with dryer and fully equipped kitchen.

Internet is included in room price.

The 20-meter heated swimming pool has glass floor panels so you can window shop at the Regents Place over which it cantilevers.

The higher the floor the better the view through the floor-to-ceiling windows -- westward facing rooms look out to Darling Harbour.

488 Kent St.; +61 2 8823 8888; US$235 per night; Sydney.frasershospitality.com. 

Blue Sydney 

Blue has come a long way from its wooly cargo days. For: Couples and history buffs

Located on the heritage-listed Finger Wharf at Wooloomooloo, Blue was originally a wool and cargo-handling warehouse.

The hotel's coveted quayside spot is within walking distance of the Royal Botanical Gardens (adjacent), Sydney Opera House and trendy Potts Point.

Finger Wharf -- the longest pile-driven pier in the world -- is home to a smattering of restaurants, including the famed China Doll and Otto, just two of six venues where guests can charge the bill back to their hotel room.

Thirty-six of the 100 rooms are split level lofts and the view menu includes harbor, marina, garden or city skyline. The spaces range from a 35-square-meter Superior Rafter Room to a 98-square-meter Ultra Loft Suite.

The main onsite watering hole is the stunning, high-atriumed Water Bar, with architecture that hints at its former warehouse past. Drinks start flowing at 5 p.m. and high tea must be booked in advance.

There's also a fitness center and heated pool to work off the famed midnight pies from the nearby Harry's Cafe de Wheels.

The hotel also offers Blue Bikes (which are actually gold) for complimentary spins around Wooloomooloo.

Tech junkies might balk at the AU$15 (US$15.50) per day in-room connectivity fee, but free wireless is offered in public areas.

6 Cowper Wharf Road, Woolloomooloo; +61 2 9331 9000; US$260 per night; www.tajhotels.com/sydney 

More on CNN: Best Sydney Harbour cruises 

The Darling 

We hope that window is tinted. For: Urbanites and couples

Opened in October 2011 as part of The Star complex's US$896.45 million expansion, The Darling is a 171-key property that exudes contemporary cool.

Floor-to-ceiling windows overlook the city skyline or harbor.

Other luxe components include Black Molton Brown toiletries (the Darling is the only hotel in Australia and one of eight worldwide to carry the range) and 400-thread count Egyptian bed linen.

Entry-level Darling rooms start at 35 square meters with large photographic artwork by celeb photographer Russell James.

The largest option is the two-bedroom penthouse suite, featuring a media room and fireplace.

Facilities in this Sydney hotel include a 25-meter eucalyptus and white tea-scented infinity pool and 16-room spa.

At the hotel's doorstep are sophisticated bars, restaurants and brand name retail outlets to spend your winnings at after a hot run at the onsite casino.

80 Pyrmont St., Pyrmont; +61 2 9777 9000; US$278 per night; www.thedarling.com.au

Establishment Hotel 

There are virtues to being part of the establishment. For: Hipsters and foodies

In an alley off George Street, Establishment Hotel is a 31-room property within walking distance of The Rocks, Circular Quay and Sydney Harbour.

There are no views outside the converted warehouse to speak of, but the modish interiors -- dark, seemingly the prerequisite for "design hotels" -- give your eyes more than enough to settle on.

All guest rooms and two penthouse lofts feature generous bathrooms with Bulgari toiletries and are kitted out with an Apple TV hooked up to a Bose sound system, iPad 2 with digital compendium and WiFi connectivity included.

Located within the same building, a disproportionally high number of restaurants and hip bars includes award-winning contemporary Aussie restaurant est., oft-booked Cantonese eatery Mr. Wong, Japanese restaurant sushi e and the flash Palmer & Co. bar.

If you're a light sleeper, ask for a higher room facing away from the main street or you'll have to zone it all out with earplugs (provided, and for a reason). 

5 Bridge Lane; +61 2 9240 3100; US$411per night; www.merivale.com.au

More on CNN: Best beaches in Sydney

QT Sydney

QT is one of the most interesting hotels to open in Sydney in years. For: Yuppies and shoppers

Outside, the grandeur of two 1920s heritage buildings -- the Gothic Gowings Building and Italian/art deco-styled State Theater.

Inside, a theatrical assault on the senses with in-your-face colors, an LED wall of digital art mood lighting, quirky texture clashes and elevator music that changes depending on lift load.

Opened in late 2012, this designer hotel is anything but cookie cutter. A separate designer and stylist were brought in to create the eclectic public areas and private spaces, with an additional stylist charged with adding personalized touches to each of the 200 guest rooms.

A costume designer was also commissioned to design the funky staff uniforms and a curator handpicks contemporary art pieces displayed throughout the hotel.

Rooms feature the sunset hues of red, orange and yellow, while those in the Gowings Building have original timber floors.

SpaQ includes a retro barber shop and the hotel offers equally hip bars and restaurants -- Parlour Lane Roasters (cafe turned wine bar in the evenings), Gowings Bar & Grill and Gilt Lounge cocktail bar.

It's located smack center for retail pursuits, adjacent to Pitt Street Mall and a brief mosey to both Westfield Centerpoint and Queen Victoria Building.

For everything else, guests can consult the QT Sydney concierge app or check the web via connectivity (included with room). 

49 Market St.; +61 2 8262 0000; US$433 per night; www.qtsydney.com.au 

Park Hyatt 

Guests staying in the Park Hyatt's Sydney Suite will have to make do with this view. For: Honeymooners and families

Following a multi-million dollar renovation that took most of 2011, Park Hyatt reopened in 2012 in its harborfront perch at Circular Quay pier overlooking the Sydney Harbour, the Harbour Bridge and Opera House.

All 155 guest rooms, F&B outlets, spa, rooftop heated pool and other facilities, including the revamped boardwalk, received a complete makeover. A new fourth level was also added, with three new rooftop suites, including a 350-square-meter Sydney Suite with a private 93-square-meter outdoor terrace.

Local materials were used in the rebuild and renowned Aussie artists were commissioned to paint, sculpt and photograph specifically for the hotel.

To make the most of the coveted view, guest rooms feature furnished private balconies (the Opera Suite has six) or terraces in the bigger suites.

Contemporary rooms are sexed up with Bose music systems and marble bathrooms that include a deep bathtub and his and her basins. Butler service is available for all guests.

Internet connectivity costs US$30 per device per day. Ouch.  

7 Hickson Road, The Rocks; +61 2 9256 1234, US$742 per night; www.sydney.park.hyatt.com

More on CNN: Outrageous! US$32 for hotel Wi-Fi and other holiday rip-offs 

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