Wednesday, February 20, 2013

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Bangkok's flavor explosion: 9 top new eateries

Posted: 19 Feb 2013 01:59 PM PST

Bangkok's dining scene has had an especially busy year and a half, with new trends and new restaurants popping up across the city. 

From five-star French chefs going bistro to Thai entrepreneurs presenting lesser-known recipes straight out of the history books, here are nine top Bangkok restaurants that are adding even more spice to the Thai capital. 

Le Beaulieu

Roasted Madame Burgaud's Challandais duck with sous-vide nectarine. One of Bangkok's best new restaurants is also one of its best old restaurants.

Napoleonic and fiercely talented chef Herve Frerard has been feeding Bangkok's high society and political bigwigs for years out of his bright and airy space on Sukhumvit Soi 19.

After a long, agonizing break, however, he's reopened at the Athenee Office Tower on Wireless Road, where he hopes to attract local clientele with slightly more rustic fare and a casual outdoor wine terrace that serves cold cuts and cheeses.

Inside, however, is where the magic happens.

Meals range from a platter of burrata cheese with heirloom tomatoes (elevated with lemon confit) to sous-vide Wagyu beef cheek in a red wine sauce and a pot au feu with morteau sausage, pork belly and veal tongue.

Athenee Office Tower, 63 Wireless Road; +66 (0)2 168 8220; expensive; www.le-beaulieu.com

Gossip

Gossip's hamachi ceviche. One of the newest openings on this list, the kitchen at Gossip is led by Julien Lavigne, who sharpened his Bangkok knives at the posh jewel in the Dusit Thani crown, D'Sens, the Thai outpost of the Michelin-starred Pourcel Brothers.

From there he moved to the less stuffy Oskar Bistro, before arriving at Gossip with free rein over the menu. 

Here you'll find a mix of French and Italian dishes, with a smattering of options that reflect Lavigne's time in Asia. These include arancini with tomatillo salsa, seared red tuna with wasabi mashed potatoes and a refreshing ceviche made with hamachi fish, corn and Thai herbs.

The cocktails are done by Karl Ansaldi of Zuma fame, and there's a very affordable list of organic wines.

Décor is equally cosmopolitan, with a nod to the aesthetic of "Life" magazine circa 1960 -- a loungey outdoor space flanked by a graffiti-embellished wall.

Thonglor Soi 15, +66 (0)2 185 3093; moderate; www.gossip-bangkok.com

More on CNN: A guide to choosing the best dishes in Asia

Issaya Siamese Club

Issaya Siamese Club is set in a renovated 1920s house. Colonial-chic meets vibrant Thai colors in celebrity chef Ian Kittichai's flagship Bangkok restaurant.

Though removed from the Sukhumvit culinary drama, the charming old Thai house off Rama 4 Road has a sprawling lawn with low tables and bean bags, ceiling fans and rattan furniture on the second-floor verandah, and dark wood and purple and blue walls in the main dining room.

There's even a chef's garden in the back where Kittichai grows herbs and greens.

The food is mostly classic Thai, but the execution is novel enough for repeat Bangkok visitors to be delighted.

We recommend the moo manao (thinly sliced pork topped with lime and edible flowers), glazed pork ribs and pla ob prik (baked fish with a chili glaze).

If you're grappling with a dessert decision, the chef's signature jasmine flower flan is fantastic.

4 Soi Sri Aksorn, Chuaphloeng Road; +66 (0)2 672 9040; moderate to expensive; www.issaya.com

Little Beast

Little Beast's tapas-style dishes are great for sharing. Don't be fooled by the masculine and dungeon-esque décor, and devotion to heavy cocktails and under-loved cuts of meat -- Little Beast doesn't take itself too seriously.

The mascot -- a French bulldog -- appears on the menus and as a heavy brass bust at the front door.

The emphasis on small plates makes Little beast a great place for sharing and lining the stomach for deceptively potent cocktails like the Redolent (Pimm's No. 1 and Italian bitters, topped with blood orange and ginger ale).

Chef Nan Bunyasaranand trained at Hyde Park's CIA and worked at a couple Thomas Keller joints in New York City.

At her own eatery, she serves up dishes like sea bream and butternut squash puree and bacon fat–roasted shishito peppers with sea salt. She also makes her own sausages, rillettes and terrines, which change often.

44/9-10 Thonglor Soi 13; +66 (0)2 185 2670; moderate-expensive; Facebook.com/littlebeastbar

The Local

The southern Thailand decor in The Local's main dining room features Thai shadow play. The Markawat family has been in the restaurant business for a few decades, with long-standing establishments Oam Thong and Naj under their Bangkok dining belts.

But they've struck gold with The Local. Championing old family recipes -- the family has roots in Ratchburi, as well as Trang -- the place is a tribute to Thai culinary history.

The two-house space has a small reception area with old kitchen relics and Thailand's oldest published cookbook on display. The private dining rooms have décor themes paying homage to the reign of Rama V and the heyday of the Damnoen Saduak floating market.

While classics such as khao soi and fish cakes are available, we recommend the more rare, slow-cooked dishes, such as the gaeng lun juan (spicy beef tendon in a shrimp paste curry) and lon kathi (spicy white herbal curry).

There's also a solid Thai-inspired cocktail list.

32 Sukhumvit Soi 23, +66 (0)2 664 3360; moderate; Facebook.com/thelocalcuisine

Smith

For slaughterhouse chic, it's Smith. Brought to Bangkok by the people behind Hyde & Seek, where the city's young, beautiful and well off gather for fancy cocktails and manly fare, Smith is the closest thing Bangkok has to a nose-to-tail place.

There's something to be said for the house-made headcheese terrine, as well as the haggis -- yes, haggis.

The sprawling space feels like a Williamsburg slaughterhouse -- in a good way -- with staff sporting leather aprons and the bathroom sinks equipped with spray nozzles.

If you're squeamish about soft animal bits, there's still plenty to order, like a good, wholesome sausage pie.  

It may be big, but it's constantly packed with hipsters, lured by the stiff cocktails. Reservations a must.

1/8 Sukhumvit Soi 49, +66 (0)2 261 0515; moderate; www.smith-restaurant.com

Somtum Der

Somtum Der, making Isaan food more accessible. This is the least fancy place on this list of bistros and chic standalones.

But Somtum Der offers a rare combination: accessible, authentic northeastern Thai (Isaan) food at affordable prices, served with a bit of atmosphere.

The recipes are inspired by the fiery, less-sweet palate of Khon Khaen province, where the owners even spent a few weeks selling their wares at a local market as a test run with the public.

There's no lack of "scary" condiments and ingredients, chiefly pla ra (pungent fermented fish). But it's pasteurized here for tourist stomachs, so don't be afraid of dishes like the traditional somtum pla ra (papaya salad) and lesser-known tum sua (papaya salad with vermicelli noodles).

If you're still not convinced, there's perfectly deep-fried gai thod (fried chicken), meaty and herbal tom saep (soup with young pork bones) and the hard-to-find tum pla too khao man (papaya salad with mackerel served with coconut-sweetened rice).

5/5 Soi Sala Daeng, Silom Road, +66 (0)2 632 4499; affordable; Facebook.com/somtumder

More on CNN: A noodle soup lover's guide to Bangkok

Supanniga Eating Room

Many of Supanniga's dishes are based on the owner's grandmother's old recipes. If you want more from Thai cuisine than green curry, pad Thai and papaya salad, but you'd rather not drop a bomb on Nahm, Supanniga Eating Room is a great new option.

It's located in a narrow, three-story Thonglor shophouse, decked out with raw cement walls, yellow booths and outdoor sofas on the top floor.

Inspired by Trat province on Thailand's southeastern coast and the northeast Isaan region, the menu has rewards for the uninitiated.

Highlights include yam pla salid thod krob (sweet and sour salad with crispy fish) and sweet and herbal moo chor muang (fatty chunks of pork in an earthy curry of sour leaves).

160/11 Soi Thonglor, +66 (0)2 714 7508; moderate; www.facebook.com/SupannigaEatingRoom

Quince

Rough-hewn tables add to Quince's rustic appeal. One of the hottest openings of the past year, Quince has taken the locavore ethos to a new level, in a town where pretty much every fancy restaurant makes much ado about organic herbs.

Armed with a strong market-kitchen concept, the cooking at Quince does full justice to the ingredients, mostly juxtaposing them rather than cooking the hell out of them. 

Highly recommended dishes include mushrooms with herbs and sherry vinegar and the rich bone marrow, which comes with a parsley and capers salad.

It's worth keeping an eye out for specials -- they change frequently and are always intriguing. 

Sukhumvit Soi 45, +66 (0)2 662 4478; moderate; www.quincebangkok.com

More on CNN: The rise of Bangkok's indie eating scene

Insider Guide: Best of New York City

Posted: 19 Feb 2013 08:01 AM PST

Trying to do the best of New York City in a few days is like announcing you plan to see Africa in a week: it minimizes just how much there is to experience and completely disregards travel times.

Our menu of the best of New York City eats, drinks, sights and photo ops ensures you don't waste a New York minute -- which Johnny Cash supposedly once defined as the time it takes for a traffic light to turn green and the guy behind you to honk his horn.

Just understand you're only taking a very quick bite of the metropolis, not consuming the entire Apple.

Don't have time to read the whole article now? Print out our traveler-friendly one-page guide here: Best of New York City

 

Hotels

Luxury

Mandarin Oriental New YorkDon't forget to check out the rest of the city, OK?

Mandarin Oriental

Located atop one of the twin sentries comprising the Time Warner Center, the five-star Mandarin enjoys unobstructed views through its floor-to-ceiling windows of the Hudson River, Central Park, Brooklyn and Portugal (at least, it feels that way).

Its best of New York City position in bustling Columbus Circle centralizes it near perfectly -- just north of Midtown -- with subways linking to virtually every part of the city.

Unlike in much of the rest of the United States, there's no shame in walking in New York. Plenty of attractions are within an easy stroll, including Lincoln Center, Broadway, Hell's Kitchen and Times Square.

80 Columbus Circle; +1 212 805 8800; from US$695 per night; www.mandarinoriental.com/newyork

 

Just like home. Assuming you're a duchess or old English barrister. Crosby Street Hotel

With high ceilings and full length windows reflective of SoHo's history as a factory cum gallery district, Hotelier Firmdale's only non-London property is an all-new structure built in the neighborhood's classic style, its 86 guest rooms each receiving their own individual designs.

As charming as the cobblestone street out front, the hotel has an outdoor sculpture garden, all-day afternoon tea service with cakes and sandwiches in the bar and a 100-seat screening room with a Sunday Night Film Club open to all.

The neighborhood's overall lower profile makes the Crosby's upper floors all the more recommended.

79 Crosby St.; +1 212 226 6400; from $505 per night; www.firmdalehotels.com/new-york/crosby-street-hotel


Mid-range

Just in case one window stops working, you can still see New Jersey from the other. The Standard, High Line

If aesthetics are a requisite, The Standard -- situated directly above a stretch of old elevated railway now known as High Line Park -- is a best of New York City landmark in Manhattan's most model-intensive neighborhood.

The decor is mod and the vibe is downtown, so go ahead and pack your shiniest shirts for the clubs, bars and bistros of the surrounding Meatpacking District.

Among the property's greatest draws are its views. Of models, yes, but also of the Hudson River, downtown and, to a lesser extent, New Jersey. Ensure you see as much as possible by getting a room ending in 24, which will net you two walls of windows.

848 Washington St.; +1 212 645 4646; from US$345 per night; www.standardhotels.com/high-line

 

If only the Bowery's former residents could see it now. (They'd be escorted off the premises in handcuffs.) The Bowery Hotel

Two hundred years ago, the Bowery was a poor man's Broadway. By the turn of the last century, it was just poor.

But those familiar just 10 years ago with this erstwhile skid row would hardly recognize it today, and the Bowery Hotel embodies its new, loftier status.

Lying right at the intersection of hip and elegant, the hotel is appointed with luxurious old world refinements and décor while retaining a vibe that's lively and modern.

Factory windows offer 360-degrees of the city, while several rooms have their own terraces, complete with outdoor showers.

335 Bowery; +1 212 505 9100; from $365 per night; www.theboweryhotel.com


Budget

Pod Hotel is easy on your wallet. Mostly because it's the same size.

The Pod Hotel

The only way you can stay overnight in Manhattan for less than one of the single rooms in this Midtown budgetier is by staying with family in the area. And if you stay at the Pod's 51st Street location, in some cases it, too, requires you to share a bathroom with people you may not like.

But rooms at the newer Murray Hill location all feature private bathrooms, along with free Wi-Fi and an emphasis on communal space typified by the Pod 39's rooftop lounge. The hotel's perks are few and the rooms are barely bigger than the beds, but if you want hip and affordable, you won't likely do better.

145 E. 39th St.; +1 212 865 5700; from US$119 per night; www.thepodhotel.com


Dining

Per Se New YorkGreat things do come in small packages. Per Se

With its modern decor and swanky address at the tip of Central Park, Per Se strives to turn your dinner into "a journey that returns you to sources of pleasure you may have forgotten," which would seem pretentious if that wasn't precisely what it accomplishes with nearly every dish.

Hailed by food critics ever since its doors opened, Per Se is the brainchild of Thomas Keller, the only American chef to have been awarded three Michelin stars for two different restaurants (including Per Se).

Per Se is the East Coast version of his flagship French Laundry in California, having since far surpassed it on the World's 50 Best Restaurants list.

While the chef's tasting menu changes daily, there are mainstays, such as Keller's well-known twist on "oysters and pearls," which combines succulent oysters, tapioca pearls and caviar.

10 Columbus Circle; +1 212 823 9335; open daily: 5:30-10 p.m. (dinner), Friday-Sunday: 11:30 a.m.-1:30 p.m. (lunch); expensive; perseny.com

 

Perfect for meatings. Keens Steakhouse

Americans tend to value massive portions; fine dining is inevitably about small but perfect items.

Keens earns best of New York City marks by seeking to combine the best of both philosophies.

While up against worthy steakhouse competitors including Peter Luger, Old Homestead and The Strip House, Keens has an edge by serving the city's top mutton chop. The chop comes flanked by pieces of lamb bacon.

Keens also has the edge in decor. Its ceiling is stippled with thousands of clay pipes that represent an erstwhile club membership including American icons Theodore Roosevelt, Babe Ruth and General Douglas MacArthur.

72 W. 36th St.; + 1 212 947 3636; Monday-Friday: 11:45 a.m.-10:30 p.m., Saturday: 5-10:30 p.m., Sunday: 5-9 p.m.; expensive; www.keens.com


Atera
With novelty as a guiding, but not solitary, principle, chef Matthew Lightner is dazzling diners at his tiny new tasting room in Tribeca.

Foraged ingredients and innovative ideas drive a constantly changing 22-course menu that's designed as much to stir emotions as it is taste buds, which can go unrewarded in any given moment in favor of a gastro-narrative revelation four courses later.

Modernist creations like gin-cured scallops, cedar-oil-drizzled lamb and a baguette colored with squid ink to resemble a razor clam are served on flat rocks, hay and driftwood in the naturist style pioneered in Portland, OR.

The award of two stars by Michelin isn't doing anything to ease accessibility to an already modest space, so reservations are vital.

77 Worth St.; +1 212 226 1444; Tuesday-Saturday: 6-9:30 p.m.; expensive; www.ateranyc.com

Osteria MoriniAll the pleasures of a proper pasta. Osteria Morini

"New York" magazine recently called Michael White "the city's hottest Italian chef," and "Esquire" put his bustling new Osteria Morini on its list of best restaurants in the city.

So why shouldn't we put it on our best of New York City list?

White has earned praise with his knack for taking home-style fare and providing a gourmet twist, like tortellini with a duck-liver cream sauce.

Of course, man cannot live on food alone, and Osteria Morini's cocktails are also superb.

218 Lafayette St.; +1 212 965 8777; hours vary; expensive; www.osteriamorini.com

 

The Dutch New YorkGoing Dutch never tasted so good. The Dutch

Dress code at The Dutch?

"This ain't no country club, but it's no ball game either," states the American bar/restaurant's website. "This is New York. Do what you feel, but keep it fresh."

That casual but earnest logic lies at the heart of Andrew Carmellini's latest offering in New York.

Inspired by a mix of cafés, country inns and seaside shacks, diners get reinterpretations of American classics like the good old porterhouse steak and fried chicken served with biscuits.

Just remember to look up from your food occasionally, or else you'll miss the celebrities meandering through the dining room.

131 Sullivan St.; +1 212 677 6200; Monday-Friday: 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. (lunch), Sunday-Wednesday: 5:30-11 p.m. (dinner), Thursday-Saturday: 5:30 p.m.-1 a.m. (dinner); moderate; thedutchnyc.com

 

Nougatine was renovated in 2012. Café Nougatine

Jean-Georges Vongerichten is one of the most celebrated chefs in New York.

If you want to experience his creations at reasonable prices, try the lunch deal at Jean-Georges' Café Nougatine in the Trump Building.

The French haute cuisine goes for around US$25 every lunch hour at the acclaimed restaurant.

1 Central Park West; +1 212 299 3900; moderate; www.jean-georgesrestaurant.com

 

Miss Lily's Favourite Cakes

While the name promises cakes, this hip diner in downtown Manhattan serves remarkable Jamaican dishes.

The most revered item at this best of New York City diner is jerk chicken.

Miss Lily's decor is plastic-table basic, but just when you thought you were in another forgettable eatery you take a mouthful and discover why chef Bradford Thompson was named by "Food & Wine" as one of the Best New Chefs in 2004.

The decor is simple, but you won't care as you watch leggy servers carry hearty platefuls of curry goat, oxtail stew and, yes, even cakes if you so desire.

Warning to anyone looking for a relaxed island vibe: the atmosphere of Miss Lily's tends to get clubbier and the music louder as the night goes on.

132 W. Houston St.; +1 646 588 5375; Monday-Friday: noon-2 a.m., Saturday: 11 a.m.-2 a.m., Sunday: 11 a.m.-midnight; budget; misslilysnyc.com

 

Joe's PizzaThere's plenty of pizza in New York, but only a handful of joints are reliably great. Joe's is one.

Joe's Pizza

For a best of New York City experience, there's no more quintessential fast food than a slice of pizza.

Joe's modest storefront unloads exceptional slices to an uninterrupted queue of patrons nearly 20 hours of every day.

Stand in line, point, pay, apply Parmesan and chili flakes from the public shakers, fold, eat and hustle back to work. Hey, now you're practically a local.

7 Carmine St.; +1 212 366 1182; Monday-Sunday: 10 a.m.-4:30 a.m.; budget; www.joespizzanyc.com


Nightlife

Campbell ApartmentsTime travel here.

Campbell Apartment

Step back in time and behold fully restored glasswork, furnishings and architectural appointments of a cavernous lounge that was once the massive private office of 1920s magnate John W. Campbell.

Now a swanky club, Campbell Apartment evokes images reminiscent of the more elegant side of "The Great Gatsby." (For Gatsby-esque smoking ruins, you'll have to look elsewhere.)

Having a cocktail amid such elegance comes at a price: no jeans or sneakers allowed.

15 Vanderbilt Ave.; +1 212 953 0409; Monday-Saturday: noon-1 a.m., Sunday: noon-midnight; expensive; www.grandcentralterminal.com

 

While you're here, try the lamb burger. The Breslin Bar & Dining Room

In the lobby of the Ace Hotel, The Breslin is separated into small rooms for eating, drinking and generally feeling good about rubbing shoulders with trendy New Yorkers.

There's a good chance you won't even get a table in the bar, which has dark wood, antique pendant light fixtures and the feel of a private British club -- but the buzz and people scenery will make up for it.

The Breslin's lamb burger draws raves from regulars.

The dining room is the place for pork in all its marrow and other modern guises.

16 W. 29th St. (between Broadway and Fifth Avenue); +1 212 679 1939; bar open until 4 a.m. daily; moderate; www.thebreslin.com

 

GoldBar

Anyone who feels every New York nightclub is the same should hit this NoLita (North of Little Italy) establishment with an interior every bit as eclectic as its playlist, which includes new wave, rap, rock and pop.

How eclectic? For one, the entire space is swathed in gold. For another, it includes a wall studded with gilded human skulls. (That's right, skulls.)

Be advised that while you'll likely want to capture an evening here for posterity -- it's pricy enough that it's less a night out than an investment -- photography is not permitted.

389 Broome St.; +1 212 274 1568; Monday-Wednesday: 6 p.m.-2 a.m., Thursday-Saturday: 6 p.m.-4 a.m., Sunday: 10 p.m.-4 a.m.; expensive; goldbarnewyork.com

 

McSorley'sFor the guy who doesn't like the words "boutique" and "beer" in the same sentence.

McSorley's Old Ale House

As at Campbell Apartment, you feel like you're stepping back in time. McSorley's, however, is the sort of place that would welcome those traveling steerage as warmly as those in first class.

Rough-hewn wood floors, workmanlike bartenders and assorted memorabilia said to have been in the building since 1910 make you feel like you're in a simpler age. 

There are only two options for sale here: dark beer and light beer, the latter being called "light" not for its caloric value, but because it's not the former.

Since beers here must be ordered in pairs, try one of each.

15 E. 7th St.; +1 212 473 9148; Monday-Saturday: 11 a.m.-1 a.m., Sunday: 1 p.m.-1 a.m.; budget; www.mcsorleysnewyork.com

 

A bar stool at ReVision, fashioned from some old snow skis. ReVision Lounge

ReVision's theme is reclamation, with a front room furnished in bar stools made of recycled snow skis and a countertop of shredded, outdated U.S. currency glazed to a smooth finish.

But it's the best of New York City back room you'll remember. Filled with couches fashioned from old coffins, porcelain bath tubs and the back ends of 1970s American luxury cars, it's got a DJ table formed by the front end of an old Cadillac.

If you get in early in the evening you might be able to dodge the often unbearable late crowds. Just be sure not to show up wearing real fur. (Seriously.)

219 Avenue B; +1 646 490 7271; Thursday-Saturday: 7:30 p.m.-4 a.m.; moderate; revisionlounge.com


Shopping/Attractions

Bergdorf GoodmanEven boys can have a Carrie Bradshaw moment. Bergdorf Goodman department store

All high-fashion roads lead to this city institution, where the merchandise, layout and presentation are first-class, the staff is renowned for obsessive courteousness and historic New York department store shopping is still a dignified experience.

Bergdorf's offers some impressive sales, though half off a US$1,000 sweater is still 500 bucks

BG's four on-site restaurants are surprisingly good, a find for anyone who normally wouldn't dream of eating in a store.

754 Fifth Ave.; +1 800 558 1855; Monday-Friday: 10 a.m.-8 p.m., Saturday: 10 a.m.-7 p.m., Sunday: 11 a.m.-6 p.m.; expensive; www.bergdorfgoodman.com

 

For the bargain billionaire. Century 21

For expensive stuff cheap and cheap stuff even cheaper, there's no more beloved and simultaneously bemoaned retailer in New York City than Century 21.

Shoppers ascend C21's five floors, slipping through the hordes searching for deeply discounted designer fashions, mainstream basics and mall-brand overstock, as well as items including luggage, watches and handbags.

If you're willing to brave masses of consumers, C21 probably has a version of whatever clothing item you desire at every level of the economic spectrum, whether it's a $1,200 coat for $400 or a $25 pack of socks for $10.

22 Cortlandt St. (and other locations); +1 212 227 9092; Monday-Wednesday: 7:45 a.m.-9 p.m., Thursday-Friday: 7:45 a.m.-9:30 p.m., Saturday: 10 a.m.-9 p.m., Sunday: 11 a.m.-8 p.m.; budget to expensive; www.c21stores.com

 

A store boasting the size and inventory of B&H is almost unheard of in Manhattan. B&H Photo Video

B&H does a healthy amount of Internet business, making it known to many planet-wide, but the brick-and-mortar version is a hive of retail wonderment that really must be observed offline.

Thousands of daily customers seek counsel and competitive prices from hundreds of employees on photo and video cameras, computers, audio and lighting equipment, TVs, portable media devices and all of their associated accessories.

It's worth it alone to buy something just to watch it travel via the store's overhead rail delivery system.

420 Ninth Ave.; +1 866 265 7999; Monday-Thursday: 9 a.m.-7 p.m., Friday: 9 a.m.-1 p.m., Sunday: 10 a.m.-6 p.m., closed Saturday; moderate to expensive; www.bhphotovideo.com

 

911 Memorial MuseumOne of the city's more solemn outings.

National September 11 Memorial & Museum

Finally opened on September 12, 2011, after years of legal and architectural haggling, the 9/11 Memorial replaces the footprints of the World Trade Center's Twin Towers with reflecting pools fed by gargantuan ground-level waterfalls.

While the scale is massive, the aesthetic is in many ways quite personal, making the experience imposing yet touching all at once.

As long as construction continues around the site, visits require advance reservations; go to the official site to secure your visit time.

One Liberty Plaza; 10 a.m. to various closing times, depending on time of year; www.911memorial.org

 

Top of The Rock We'll take 30 Rock over Empire State any day.

Top of The Rock observation deck

Like Meg Ryan and King Kong, you may be filled with a yen to rush to the top of the Empire State Building.

Unfortunately, this is an impulse shared by a zillion or so other tourists.

Instead, check out the observation deck at Rockefeller Center, which offers 360-degree views that are nearly as stunning and can be seen after a fraction of the wait.

30 Rockefeller Center; +1 212 698 2000, daily 8 a.m.-midnight, $25; www.topoftherocknyc.com

 

You don't have to get away from the city to get away from the city. Central Park

The expanse of green in the middle of Manhattan is your chance to do everything from seeing Shakespeare in the Park (there's also a Marionette Theater at the Swedish Cottage if your little ones aren't ready for Titus Andronicus) to challenging old Italian men to a game of bocce on the green near Sheep's Meadow.

In the summer, Conservatory Water is filled with model boats. For even bigger kids, rental rowboats are available.

In winter, you can ice-skate at either Wollman or Lasker Rink.

59th to 110th Street; +1 212 310 6600; daily 24 hours (hours vary for individual attractions); free (costs vary for individual attractions); centralparknyc.org

Seasonal attractions

Visitors might experience completely different New Yorks depending on the time of year. Here are some seasonal suggestions.

Winter

Madison Square GardenRapid heartbeat, sweating, flushed face -- must be the MSG.

Madison Square Garden

Hopes are high again at the Garden as the resurgent New York Knicks NBA franchise has emerged from one of the bleaker stretches in its proud history to contention for the top seed in the Eastern Conference.

If you prefer your athletes with fewer teeth, the Garden is also home to the New York Rangers, one of six original members of the National Hockey League.

4 Pennsylvania Plaza (Seventh Avenue at 33rd Street); www.nba.com/knicks; rangers.nhl.com

 

We'll take Bryant Park over 30 Rock any day. Citi Pond at Bryant Park

Ice-skating at Rockefeller Center may be the most iconic activity available for any winter visit to New York City. 

Unfortunately, every other visitor willing to lace on skates knows this, as well. If lines prove too horrific, consider heading south to the seasonal Citi Pond at Bryant Park.

The park also fills up in winter with holiday shops to amuse those who choose to stay off the ice.

Admission free, skate rentals US$14.

Sixth Avenue and East 40th; late-October through early-March; Sunday-Thursday: 8 a.m.-10 p.m., Friday-Saturday: 8 a.m.-midnight; www.citipondatbryantpark.com


Spring

Hudson River ParkThe Hudson has gotten a stylish makeover.

Hudson River Park

New York's west side waterfront has undergone wholesale improvements over the last decade, including the installation of an eight-kilometer bike and walking path, tennis and basketball courts, soccer fields, batting cages, playgrounds, skate park, trapeze school, open lawns and free kayaking at Piers 96, 40 and 72nd Street.

Yes, that's right, trapeze school.

Good burgers and beers can be found at the Frying Pan, a wartime barge turned bar and grill at 26th Street.

Hudson River, from 59th Street to Battery Park; www.hudsonriverpark.org/index.asp

 

There are two reasons to visit the Bronx. You don't want to know the other one. Yankee Stadium

From April through September, the Bronx comes alive for the most successful sports franchise in North America, which supplies New York with a good chunk of its swagger -- it's easier to call yourself "the greatest city in the world" when you've won 27 World Series, not to mention those two by the Mets.

Take the B, D or 4 subway trains to 161st Street for a game, including time to stroll the team's new billion-dollar stadium.

Beware purchasing tickets from street scalpers: counterfeiters here are among the best in the world.

One E. 161st St.; +1 718 293 6000; early-April through late-September; newyork.yankees.mlb.com

Summer

Brooklyn BridgeAfter years of being destroyed by Hollywood CGI, the Brooklyn Bridge is still standing strong.Brooklyn Bridge

Ironically, one of the best ways to appreciate Manhattan is to leave it.

Get off the F train at High Street in Brooklyn and enjoy the two-and-a-half kilometer walk back to the city via its most historic gateway, enjoying a remarkable view of Manhattan that will make you feel like you're living a particularly charming moment from a Woody Allen film.

Before making the journey, spend some time in Brooklyn.

Check out Brooklyn's bridge-side DUMBO neighborhood, which offers a waterfront view and features warehouses converted into an array of residences and businesses.

If you enjoy waiting in line for food that you eat with your hands, check out Grimaldi's, one of New York's best-rated brick oven pizzas.

www.nyc.gov/html/dot/html/bridges/brooklyn_bridge.shtml


Fall

 

Fort Tryon Park New YorkPeace and calm in Fort Tryon Park.The Cloisters

If you're looking for a museum missed by most tourists (and a surprising number of New Yorkers), make time for the Cloisters, located in Fort Tryon Park.

A reassembled French building houses the Metropolitan Museum of Art's medieval Europe collection, but for many visitors the best part of the visit occurs when you step outside and see gardens patterned faithfully after medieval designs for landscaping and architecture.

You'll be going far further north than most visitors, but when you witness an attraction unlike anything else in New York you'll know it's worth the journey.

West 193rd Street at Washington Avenue; +1 212 923 3700; Tuesday-Thursday and Sunday: 9:30 a.m.-5:30 p.m., Friday-Saturday: 9:30 a.m.-9 p.m., closed Monday; www.metmuseum.org/visit/visit-the-cloisters

Now print out our traveler-friendly one-page guide here: Best of New York City

Originally published April, 2012. Updated February, 2013

Rome's best brunches: 10 places to lose an afternoon

Posted: 19 Feb 2013 02:00 AM PST

Don't tell Rome about brunch's reputation as a place where men are taken by women to be defrocked -- the American weekend meal tradition has become the city's latest fashion, with countless weekend buffets popping up around the Eternal City in recent years.

Roman brunch -- a happy merger of aperitivo (Italian happy hour) buffets and American dining -- is scheduled a bit later in the day than its American counterpart (some might call it a more hangover-friendly time), usually between noon and 3:30 p.m.

It's a buffet for Romans with money to spend at restaurants that are beautifully and eclectically decorated. 

In no particular order, here are the 10 best brunch spots in town -- reservations and careful planning are a must.

When in Rome, brunch as Romans brunch, at places like Open Colonna.

Open Colonna

The brainchild of chef Antonello Colonna, Open Colonna's buffet brunch is a slightly more Italian Sunday lunch than American breakfast, with lasagna, parmigianas, fresh cheeses, meatballs, pasta salads and cous cous.

Located on the roof of the Palazzo dei Esposizioni, which hosts excellent art exhibitions, the venue is great, too.

Price: €30 (US$40)

Scalinata di via Milano 9a; +6 4782 2641; brunch hours, Saturdays and Sundays 12:30-3:30 p.m.; www.opencolonna.it

Rec23

Rec23 in Testaccio bills its brunch as an "authentic American brunch that doesn't forget Grandma's Sunday lunch."

What that actually means: polenta with sausage, porchetta, lasagna, fried chicken cutlets, cheeses and roast beef. Plus scrambled eggs, pancakes and bacon.

For those who want an accompanying afternoon activity, the unlimited American/Italian brunch buffet is accompanied by a "cheap and chic" flea market the second Sunday of each month.

Price: €15 (US$20), including coffee, water and orange juice.

Piazza dell'Emporio 2; +6 8746 2147; brunch hours, Sundays 12:30-3:30 p.m.; www.rec23.com

Bakery House

One of the most delicious and cost-friendly brunches in Rome, Bakery House offers exclusively American breakfast dishes, such as scrambled eggs and bacon, ham and cheese omelettes, pancakes, french toast, bagels and sandwiches.

Brunch comes with orange juice and American coffee. There's no buffet here -- you order a meal from a waitress.

Price: €8.50 (US$11).

Corso Trieste, 157; +6 9437 7841; brunch hours, Saturdays and Sundays 11 a.m.-4 p.m.; www.bakeryhouse.it

Available by request at Sweety Rome brunch: chocolate on your pancakes.

Sweety Rome

This American-style bakery on Via Euralio has a Via Milano cafè that serves a brunch buffet on Sundays with all manner of eggs, bacon, bruschetta, rice dishes, pasta and vegetables.

Pancakes are the notable absentee from Sweety Rome's brunch buffet -- they can be ordered from your waiter and are served with maple syrup or chocolate.

Price: €22 (US$30)

Via Milano 48; +6 4891 3713; brunch hours, Sundays noon-3:30 p.m. www.sweetyrome.it

 

The Perfect Bun

This upscale spot -- also known as "CO2" -- could have been plucked straight from the London Underground and transplanted in Rome's historic center.

During regular hours, The Perfect Bun serves burgers, steaks and Tex-Mex food, but its brunches are all about eggs, French toast, potatoes and Sunday roast.

Some complain about the prices, spotty service and noise, but it's still the most fashionable Roman brunch in town, where the crowd is young, Roman and good-looking. Reservations necessary.

Price: €25 (US$33), including American coffee.

Largo del Teatro Valle, 4; +6 4547 6337; brunch hours, Sundays 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m.; www.theperfectbun.it

 

'Gusto Caffè

'Gusto serves brunch to a giant crowd on Saturdays and Sundays and lines can get ridiculously long.

The cafe's atmosphere is clean and modern -- it's deemed "New York-style" by Romans -- and the buffet features baked pastas such as timballo and canneloni, meat and seafood dishes, cheeses, pizza, scrambled eggs, bacon, cupcakes and donuts.

Price: €15 (US$20) per 500 grams of buffet food; €2.50 per each additional 100 grams.

Piazza Augusto Imperatore 9; +6 322 6273; brunch hours, Saturdays and Sundays noon-3 p.m.; www.gusto.it

Zoc's spiced roast beef with chimichurri sauce and seasonal salad.

Zoc

A beautiful loft space with an impressive garden, Zoc's brunch buffet consists of dishes made with "farm to table" ingredients.

Zoc's classic brunch items include fresh seasonal fruits, pancakes and scrambled eggs; non-traditional options are shrimp curry, salads, baked potatoes, caesar salad, chili, smoothies, chicken wings and chocolate muffins.

The menu at Zoc changes daily, so arrive hungry and curious.

Price: €30 (US$40).

Via Delle Zoccolette 22; +6 6819 2515; brunch hours, Saturdays and Sundays noon-3:30 p.m.; www.zoc22.it

Bocca di Dama

A lovely bakery in San Lorenzo with spare white, black and neutral interiors, Bocca di Dama serves a bountiful brunch.

The buffet of "naturally imperfect" foods offers meatballs, brocoletti, foccaccia, lasagna, quiche, toast with artisanal jams, mini-croissants and a whole table of pancakes. Reservations recommended.

Price: €20 (US$27) including coffee, wine or tea.

Via dei Marsi 4; +6 4434 1154; brunch hours, Saturdays and Sundays 12:30-3:30 p.m.; www.boccadidama.it

This humble-looking brunch spot moonlights as a nightclub.

Salotto 42

This trendy Roman bar by night turns into a brunch spot on weekend mornings.

We like the "organic" alternative to brunch, which is more aperitivo than breakfast. Among the buffet of cous cous, pasta salads, pita sandwiches and green salad with almond-apricot dressing, you'll find fruit juice and coffee.

Price: €15 (US$20), including non-alcoholic beverages.

Piazza di Pietra 42; +6 678 5804; brunch hours, Saturdays and Sundays 1-3 p.m.; www.salotto42.it

Il Pulcino Ballerino

Fancy a bit of musical entertainment with your Sunday morning headache? You might try Il Pulcino Ballerino in San Lorenzo, where the Wild Brunch buffet comes with a live rock set.

The buffet line features sausages, eggs, baked pastas, pasta salads, meat dishes and vegetables.

The show starts at 2:30 p.m. Reservations recommended.

Price: €20 ($US27), alcoholic beverages not included.

Via degli Equi 68; +6 494 1255; brunch hours, Sundays 12:30-2:30 p.m.; www.pulcinoballerino.com

More on CNN: 24-hour tourism -- Rome in a day

Iraqi Airways resumes flights to London

Posted: 18 Feb 2013 10:02 PM PST

Iraqi Airways has announced it will resume flights from Baghdad International Airport to London Gatwick starting on March 5.

The resumption is a remarkable development given there hasn't been a regular scheduled flight between the two capitals since the outbreak of the 1990-1991 Gulf War.

The first flight will depart from London Gatwick at 10 p.m., according to a statement from Iraqi Airways.

The airline will use its newly purchased Airbus A330, A321 and A320 planes to operate two return flights from London to Baghdad and one to Sulaimaniya every week.

"The frequency will increase to six flights a week by June 15, 2013," said the airline.

"All return flights will stop in Malmo, Sweden, for a period of one hour for security reasons before entering the UK. The routes have already been granted permission by the UK Civil Aviation Authority." 

Iraqi Airways' business class section. Online booking isn't possible at this time. Those who search for flights are advised to fill in a contact form and are told an Iraqi Airways official will be in touch. Or they can contact the airline's U.K. office, at +44 (0)2 07 724 8455.

A round-trip Baghdad-London ticket starts from £468 (US$724) per person for an economy seat, £1,399 (US$2,164) for business class. 

The announcement comes on the heels of the airline's acceptance of its first widebody Airbus A330-200 in December 2012, part of an ongoing fleet renewal program.

"The A330-200 will allow us to grow our international routes," said Iraqi Airways general manager Saad Mahdi Saeed Al-Khafaji. 

But don't pack your bags yet, pleasure seekers. Tourist visas for Iraq aren't currently being granted and most countries continue to advise against travel to the country. 

The service is expected to be mainly of interest to Iraqi expats and students living in the UK. 

More on CNN: New wealth brings luxury shopping to Iraq

Troubled history

Founded in 1945, Iraqi Airways is one of the oldest airlines in the Middle East. It's based at Baghdad International Airport. 

Though the March 5 flights will be the first scheduled flights to the United Kingdom in 23 years, Iraqi Airways has been flying to the European Union since 2009.

That year the flag carrier sent its first flight to the EU in 19 years when an aircraft flew from Baghdad to Stockholm via Athens. 

In 2010, Iraqi Airways attempted to restart Baghdad/London service and even flew its first commercial flight to the United Kingdom in 20 years, filled with government officials. But regular service never materialized.

The airline was set to be dissolved and the U.K. flights were dropped due to a row with Kuwait over war reparations, a decision that was reversed in 2011.  

Today Iraqi Airways services more than a dozen domestic and international routes.

More on CNN: Can Iraq's geeks save the country?  

Chedun: Where China's best films are made

Posted: 18 Feb 2013 01:57 PM PST

Every year, thousands of young Chinese migrants flock to Chedun (车墩镇) -- either hoping to get a foothold in Shanghai with a job on an assembly line or pursuing their dream of becoming the next Jackie Chan (成龙).

In addition to housing a 40-square-kilometer industrial zone, Chedun is also home to Shanghai Film Park (上海影视乐园), one of China's biggest movie studios.

Fake Shanghai, ghost town and a great green space

The film park lies only a couple of blocks away from a dusty, noisy and truck-loaded highway and down a side lane filled with noodle restaurants, massage parlours, Internet cafés and short-stay apartments -- an unassuming place to launch some of Asia's best films.

Opened in 1998, the 400,000-square-meter compound witnesses the production of more than 100 films and TV series every year, with headlining titles like "Lust, Caution," "Perhaps Love" and "The Mummy: Tomb of the Dragon Emperor."

A walk through the park is an eerie experience.

The expansive space is mostly occupied by reproductions of landmarks (only the facades) from the colonial Shanghai period, such as Nanjing Lu, Moller Villa and the former Peace Plaza on the Bund.

A diverting collection of Western style buildings and props jump into horizon now and then, including a Tudor-style winery and a Titanic-like ferry made with cardboard (erected on a deserted patch of grass).

The recommended stops for Chinese movie mavens are the Moller Villa complex, Nanjing Lu and the iron bridge, where you are likely to catch film crews in action or, if you are lucky, get autographs from film stars like Gong Li (巩俐) and Andy Lau (刘德华).

For adventurous travelers, walk behind the facades for a view of abandoned buildings and props, which is almost as ghostly as the deserted Wonderland in Beijing.

Surprisingly, the functioning film studio also houses a pleasant green space. Walk past the "Suzhou Creek," turn right and keep walking till the end, you'll find a small scenic spot with a tranquil lake, weeping willows, pebble-paved paths and a forested island.

Hilarious Kung Fu Show

There are very few benches in the film park for visitors to rest, but a hilarious kung fu performance (in studio no.5) provides a quick way to refuel.

Staged twice a day (10:30 a.m. and 1:30 p.m.), the budget stage show borrows its plot from a popular Chinese TV series "Shanghai Tan" and is set in 1920s Shanghai.

Prepare to see a very limited cast presenting a montage of jazz dance, a love triangle scene and (fake) kung fu fight in the 20-minute show, which is dubbed with pre-recorded dialogue in Shanghainese and Mandarin, together with combat sound effects and, amusingly, periodical sounds of mouse clicks.

A tour around Shanghai Film Park takes about two hours. Family visitors are advised to pay extra attention to children while touring as some of the movie sets are not properly maintained. For example, several safety barrels on stairs and along the creek were missing during our trip.

Traffic directions

Visitors can reach Shanghai Film Park from downtown in three ways:

1. Shanghai Tourism Distribution Center has shuttle buses (leaving at 9 a.m.) to Shanghai Film Park every weekend.
Shanghai Tourism Distribution Center (上海旅游集散中心), 666 Tianyaoqiao Lu, below Platform 5 of Shanghai Stadium, 天钥桥路666号,上海体育场5号扶梯下, + 86 21 6426 5555, 6 a.m.-5:30 p.m.

2. Take Metro Line 1 to Lianhua Lu Station (莲花路站), then switch to bus Lianshi (莲石专线), Lianjin (莲金专线) or Lianfeng (莲枫专线) to Chedun. The film park is a 10-minute walk from the bus stop.

3. Take Metro LIne 9 to the last stop at Songjiang Xincheng (松江新城), and then take a RMB-30 taxi ride.

Shanghai Film Park (上海影视乐园)
4915 Beisong Gong Lu, near Xinche Gong Lu
北松公路4915号, 近新车公路
+86 21 5760 1166
Admission: RMB 50
8:30 a.m.-4:30
www.shfilmpark.com

 This article was first published in January, 2012, updated February, 2013.

China's 5 most beautiful water towns

Posted: 18 Feb 2013 01:56 PM PST

China's water towns prove there are still a few places left in China that retain dreamy, rustic charm -- a welcome sight in a country that often feels like a giant construction site.

Unlike Venice, which draws travelers seeking Bolognese with a side of heavy tourism, the Chinese equivalents offer crowd-free trips back in time.

Hongcun Ancient Village, Anhui Province

china water town -- inline 1Hongcun has what the Chinese consider superior feng shui -- it's backed by mountains and looks out upon water.

There aren't many villages in the world built to resemble a giant ox. At the youthful age of 900, east China's Hongcun Village is one such destination.

With Mount Huangshan as head, the lake-filled town as body and ancient bridges as legs, this is one distinctive beast. Even the waterways crossing the village are included as the circulatory system.

The most significant structure in the thousand-person village is Chengzhi Hall, a country palace built in 1855 with exquisite wood carvings and gold gilding from the Qing dynasty.

Testament to its authenticity, 2000's "Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon" shot several scenes in the village.

Admission: RMB 104 (US$16)

Getting there: Hongcun Village is roughly 70 kilometers northwest of Huangshan in Anhui Province. Major cities connected to Huangshan Airport by direct flights include Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou and Xi'an.

More on CNN: 40 beautiful places to visit in China

Tai'erzhuang, Shandong Province

china water town -- inline 2Tai'erzhuang was the site of a critical battle in World War II.

Thanks to a hefty US$743.54 million makeover by the local government in 2009, Tai'erzhuang in northeast China was able to restore its classic architecture to the condition of its Ming and Qing dynasty heyday.

The former trading hub was the site of the Tai'erzhuang battle between China and Japan in April 1938.

Despite the small size, Tai'erzhuang has a number of traditional temples, waterways and museums. Traditional shadow puppetry shows and bonfire parties take place on Friday and Saturday nights.

Located on the Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal, the two-square-kilometer town makes for a nice day trip from the Chinese capital.

Admission: Free (RMB 16/US$2.50 on holidays)

Getting there: Taierzhuang is located in Zaozhuang, Shandong Province, about 60 kilometers from Xuzhou Airport. The airport accommodates flights to 11 major cities including Beijing, Shanghai and Guangzhou.

More on CNN: Gallery: China's breathtaking countryside

Zhouzhuang, Jiangsu Province

china water town -- inline 3Classic China, but avoid the weekends to see it in peace.

Dubiously billing itself as the "oldest water town in China," this village, built in 1086, is crisscrossed with lantern-lined canals, a romantic reminder of China's past.

Despite its population of 138,000 people -- tiny by Chinese standards -- the town's location near Shanghai and Suzhou makes it easily accessible for short visits.

Visitors pass through shops selling woven bamboo and local pearls on the way to the town's two main religious sites, the Buddhist Quanfu Temple and the Taoist Chengxu Temple.

A boat ride through town costs around RMB 100 (US$16) per vessel. Traditional Chinese folk tunes sung by gondoliers come free.

June is a popular time to visit, with the annual Dragon Boat Festival taking place on the fifth day of the fifth month of the lunar calendar, when locals race dragon boats along the canals.

Admission: RMB 100 (US$16)

Getting there: Zhouzhuang is accessible by bus or car from Shanghai, 60 kilometers away, or Suzhou, 38 kilometers away.

More on CNN: World's most beautiful towns

Fenghuang, Hunan Province

china water town -- inline 5Fenghuang, a constant inspiration for Chinese artists.

With a name that directly translates to "phoenix," Fenghuang is as spectacular as its moniker suggests.

The integration of the town's stilted architecture to surrounding mountains and the Tuojiang River make it a prime photo op.

"Phoenix town is my favorite water town in China," says Shanghai resident Josie-Dee Seagren, 21, who comes from Chicago. "There's a certain mysterious and simple charm preserved in the architecture and the people that has not been tainted by commercialism and tourism."

To Seagren, the stepping stones on Tuojiang form a unique experience because "you can adventure across the wide river and the town's ancient ruins of a fortification wall."

The southern portion of the Great Wall is only 10 kilometers away.

A comprehensive tour ticket for accessing both the Wall and sites in town costs RMB 168 (US$27).

Fenghuang is also home to rice terraces, ginger candy and traditional Miao and Tujia cultures.

Admission: RMB 148 (for Fenghuang town only)

Getting there: Fenghuang is 430 kilometers west of Changsha, provincial capital of Hunan.

Long-distance buses are available four times a day from West Changsha Bus Terminal to Fenghuang Bus Terminal for RMB 130 (US$21). The journey takes nearly four hours.

More on CNN: 8 best foodie towns in China

Huangyao Ancient Town, Guangxi

china water town -- inline 4China's best mountains and water convene in one secluded town.

Praised for its natural feng shui, Huangyao Ancient Town lies in a river bend, supposedly preventing the locals' good fortune from flowing away.

While historically prosperous, the town's secluded location in southern China led to its unique development and preservation over a thousand-year history. Today, it's home to only 600 families. 

Located in Guangxi Province, which claims to have the best water in China, Huangyao covers 360,000 square meters surrounded by steep karst mountains, which have plenty of large caves open for exploration.

A stroll down the flagstone-paved streets lined with ancestral temples provides a light and local experience.

Travelers can borrow one of the free bamboo rafts and float on the Zhou Reservoir.

Admission: RMB 68 (US$10)

Getting there: Huangyao is 118 kilometers from Guilin in Guangxi Province. Visitors can take the bus from Guilin Bus Station to Huangyao, which runs twice a day at around 9 a.m. and 1 p.m.

More on CNN: 9 China hotels with ridiculously good views

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