Monday, November 11, 2013

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Britain's oldest pub -- who deserves the crown?

Posted: 10 Nov 2013 10:00 PM PST

You want to find the most ancient inn in Britain? It's tougher than you might think

British pubs ... it helps to be as elderly as possible.The British love a good argument over a pint, and what could be a better topic than which pub deserves to be called the nation's oldest?

It's a touchy subject -- there's possibly no more cherished symbol of Britain than a snug pub with a fire crackling in the corner.

And if it's ancient, well, that's really the froth on the ale.

There are several contenders for the crown of Britain's oldest inn.

The problem is how to judge them.

"Do you take the age of a given pub from when the current building was built or when the earliest reference to it dates from?" asks Pub writer and historian Pete Brown in his book "Shakespeare's Local."

Or do you just order another round?

Each of these very venerable British inns has a claim to being the oldest.

Visiting all of them could be fun but -- word of advice -- buy the locals a pint before you start examining the evidence.

Ye Olde Trip to Jerusalem, Nottingham

Ye Olde Trip ... Where Richard Lionheart may have got some of his courage.Ye Olde Trip to Jerusalem claims to be not only Nottingham's but in fact England's earliest surviving inn -- dating from 1189.

"An excavation in the 1970s suggested the caves below the pub belonged to the castle's brewhouse, [built as long ago] as the 12th century," says Karl Gibson, the pub's manager.

That would make Ye Olde Trip a watering hole, of sorts, at the time of the Crusades and Richard the Lionheart.

This compact inn's remarkable setting -- it's partly carved out of the cliff directly below the remains of Nottingham castle's original foundations -- stirs the imagination.

On weekdays, patrons can play the traditional old pub game of Ring the Bull, when you throw a bull's nose ring on to a hook.

Ye Olde Trip to Jerusalem, Brewhouse Yard, Nottingham; +44 115 947 3171

Nearby: Nottingham Castle, with museum and cave tours; Sherwood Forest.

Old Ferry Boat, Holywell, St Ives

This riverside thatched-roofed hostelry in rural Cambridgeshire claims to be England's oldest pub -- it certainly looks the part.

An inn supposedly stood on the site as long ago as 560, but the evidence is about as substantial as the Old Ferry Boat's supernatural inhabitant -- the pub is said to receive an annual visit from the ghost of a lovelorn teenage girl who hanged herself and was buried in unconsecrated ground beneath the inn floor.

A more reliable foundation date of 1400 relates to the current premises.

Old Ferry Boat, Holywell, St Ives, Cambridgeshire; +44 1480 463 22

Nearby: City of Cambridge PIC; Cambridgeshire Fenlands PIC.

The Bingley Arms, Leeds

Monk-warmer, aka the Bingley Arms' fireplace.Follow a monk, historically speaking, and you'll find somewhere to drink.

Some date the origin of the Bingley Arms to as long ago as 953.

Known then as The Priests Inn, it first served as a rest house for monks staggering -- sorry, traveling -- between abbeys in Leeds and York.

Clergymen had it tougher a few centuries later -- the 16th century holes found in the pub's chimney were used to conceal Catholic priests on the run from Henry VIII's Dissolution of the Monasteries campaign.

Today pub-goers can enjoy a good pint of ale by the fireplace, instead of hiding up it.

Bingley Arms Church Lane, Bardsey, Leeds; +44 1937 572 462

Nearby: Yorkshire Dales; shopping in Leeds; historic York.

Porch House, Stow-on-the-Wold, Gloucestershire

Once a workhouse, now -- thankfully -- a pub.The newest of the oldest pubs in a sense, the refurbished Porch House only opened in its current guise in September of this year.

However, the pub has had several incarnations (or should that be inn-carnations) over the centuries.

"Parts of the Porch House building are said to date to AD947.

"It's also been a family home and a hospice over the years.

"It almost became a workhouse too, but nothing came of the plans in the 1700s."

Porch House, Digbeth Street, Stow-on-the-Wold; +44 1451 870 048

Nearby: The heart of the Cotswolds.


Ye Olde Fighting Cocks, St Albans

A regular? Well, he may have drunk at Ye Olde Cocks at least once.This hostelry traces its origins as far back as 793 -- the property having had numerous incarnations since then.

Part of the present pub is a striking freestanding octagonal dovecote, built in the 11th century before being moved to its current location in 1539.

Once again, inventive monks with alcohol on their minds feature heavily in the story, with tunnels connecting the beer cellar and St Albans Cathedral.

The name, however, only came into being in the 19th century, when cock-fighting was a regular pastime.

However the evidence stacks up, any inn that can boast Oliver Cromwell as a past guest surely deserves its place in any olde pub chronicles.

Ye Olde Fighting Cocks, 16 Abbey Mill Lane, St.Albans; +44 1727 869 152

Nearby: St Albans Cathedral; Verulamium Museum (Roman museum).

The Skirrid Mountain Inn, near Abergavenny, Wales

The Skirrid's "hanging beam," helpfully reproduced for visitors.Reputed to be the oldest continuously running pub in Wales, evidence suggests there was an inn on the site as far back as the era of the 11th-century Norman Conquest.

Many people who could verify that claim were no doubt put to the sword, but what is certain is the pub's reputation for its spirits -- of both varieties.

Regarding the supernatural sort, the pub's first floor was once used as a courtroom, with hangings carried out from an oak beam above the staircase.

Over the years a number of paranormal activities have been investigated -- including sightings of the ghost of the "Hanging Judge."

Some blame those on the other in-house spirits, though.

Skirrid Mountain Inn, Llanvihangel, Crucorney, Monmouthshire; +44 1873 890 258

Nearby: Brecon Beacons National Park.

The Sheep Heid Inn, Edinburgh

Skittles at the Sheep Heid (rhymes with seed)."There's been a pub on this site since 1360, which makes it the oldest established public house in Scotland," says the Sheep Heid Inn's self-styled cultural attaché -- aka manager -- Simon Walton.

It may be officially in the big city of Edinburgh, but the Sheep Heid is definitely a village pub.

It's the focal point of Duddingston, which "still exists as a community of 72 properties on the east side of Holyrood Park -- the Queen's back garden," Walton says.

The oldest surviving authentic bar skittles board in Scotland adds to its venerable reputation.

Sheep Heid Inn, 43-45 The Causeway, Edinburgh; +44 131 6617974

Nearby: Duddingston Loch; Holyrood Park.

George Inn, Southwark

"Got to pick a pocket or two" ... "Oliver Twist" performed in the George Inn yard in 1936.If Britain's oldest pubs are slugging it out, surely some impressive London contenders are due in the ring.

In fact, pubs in the British capital tend to be comparative young'uns.

There's a good reason for that -- the Great Fire, which burned much of the city to the ground in 1666.

The George Inn's locations south of the river protected it from that inferno but it still ended up being incinerated 10 years later.

The rebuilt property stands today as London's last remaining galleried coaching inn.

Call in for a beer here and you'll be joining an illustrious list of prior patrons; Charles Dickens is said to have supped here in the 19th century, which led to the George getting a mention in "Little Dorrit."

George Inn, 5-77 Borough High St, London; +44 207 407 2056

Nearby: Shakespeare's Globe, Borough Market.

Like the best pub arguments, the solution to which is Britain's oldest pub is about as transparent as a pint of stout.

Ye Olde Trip to Jerusalem -- having been continuously a "pub" for a very long time -- has perhaps the strongest claim but let us know if you've stumbled across even older inns.

Cheers!

Sunday, November 10, 2013

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Monday, 11 November 2013. News from over the weekend and today Asia time.

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11/11/2013 HKTB Launches Great Outdoors Hong Kong; Adds Cycling and Extends Period.
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Friday, November 8, 2013

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Himalaya girl power: Treks 'by women, for women'

Posted: 07 Nov 2013 02:00 PM PST

After striking out in the male-dominated trekking business, three sisters strike out on their own to lead women-only treks

When sisters Lucky, Dicky and Nicky Chhetri began guiding trekkers through Nepal's challenging mountain routes in 1994, disbelief came from many angles.

"At first, people thought we were doing sex tourism, not trekking -- going into the mountains with foreigners for weeks," says Lucky.

Surrounded by skeptics in an industry dominated by men -- of 452 Nepalis who summited one of the country's peaks in 2011 only three were female -- the three sisters, now all in their mid-forties, have established not only a successful company of female guides and porters, but a pathway for girls from Nepal's most remote and rugged areas toward employment and empowerment.

Sisters Lucky, Dicky and Nicky Chhetri, with guide Mana Kunwar. The first company to employ female guides in Nepal, 3 Sisters Adventure Trekking now employs around 25 women as guides and 40 as assistant guides and porters.

After leaving their hometown of Darjeeling for Pokhara, a lakeside tourist hub at the foot of the Annapurna mountain range, the sisters opened a restaurant and guesthouse in 1993.

A year or so later, stories of female trekkers feeling uncomfortable with their male guides and porters in the mountains led them to post a sign advertising treks "by women, for women."

In the first season, Lucky guided trekkers to Annapurna Base Camp, at 4,130 meters. Her training: a basic course at the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute in Darjeeling.

'We are investing in our girls'

Mountain guiding in Nepal is big business, with at least a quarter of all tourists who visit Nepal engaging in some form of trekking.

With each season, the three sisters' business grew quickly, with more trekkers opting for female guides.

While guiding groups through the mountains, the sisters noticed the harsh conditions faced by young girls living in the remote areas, including some who had been sold by their families to work in trekking lodges.

Guides and trainees in the Langtang region of Nepal."We knew the women living in the remote mountain areas had an emotional, physical and economic hard life," says Lucky. "The girls have to walk miles for water, climb trees for firewood, work in fields. Hardly any opportunity, hardly any ambition."

She remembers thinking, "If I can [be a guide], the women in the mountains who do so much physical work, they all can do it too."

The Chhetri sisters' successful company is only one half of their work.

Two years after starting the company, they established Empowering Women of Nepal (EWN), a non-profit organization that provides training for girls over the age of 16 to become mountain guides.

During the six-month training periods, girls from around Nepal come to EWN to learn practical mountain skills, including rock climbing, guiding, cartography and first aid, as well as women's health, leadership, English and flora and fauna of the Himalayas, in both a classroom and field setting. 

"When the girls come at the beginning, they are shy and cover their faces, but later their body language is straight, they laugh and share their experiences of guiding," says Lucky.

"We are investing in our girls as a human resource."

The training is free.

Many girls continue on working for 3 Sisters, first as porters, then assistant guides, then as full guides capable of leading trekking groups throughout Nepal's many mountain routes.

Trainees with 3 Sisters work with the ropes during an expedition up Chulu West in Nepal's Annapurna region.Mana Kunwar has been working at 3 Sisters for 11 years, first as a porter and now as a full guide, as well as assistant office manager.

"In the beginning, some people were surprised when they saw me," she says. "They thought I was a foreigner and asked if I needed a hotel room."

Kunwar notices huge changes in the remote mountain communities she visits while leading trekking groups. Some lodges now provide female-only rooms -- previously, female workers had to share rooms with male porters.

Young girls in remote villages sometimes approach and ask her how to become a guide.

The sisters established a children's home in 2006 that provides accommodation, food, clothing and educational opportunities for girls who are orphaned, forced into child labor or come from disadvantaged households.

"We are creating a platform for girls to realize what they can do with their lives," says Lucky. "I don't want them to be 50 years old and ask 'Is this possible?'"

In India: Ladakhi Women's Travel Company

West along the Himalayas, in India's northernmost region of Ladakh, Thinlas Choral also faced opposition when she started guiding trekking groups through the mountains.

After male-only trekking companies rejected her inquiries about becoming a guide, she founded the Ladakhi Women's Travel Company in 2009.

The company employs exclusively female guides throughout Ladakh's trekking routes, including (this year) the challenging wintertime Chadar trek on the frozen Zanskar River.

Rather than staying in teahouse-guesthouses that line trails across Nepal, her business promotes home stays to bring income to remote villages in Ladakh.

3 Sisters Adventure Trekking; Pokhara-6, Lakeside (Khahare), Nepal; +977 61 462066

Ladakhi Women's Travel Company; Shop 22, Hemis Complex, Upper Tukcha Road, Zangsti, Leh, Ladakh, India

Thursday, November 7, 2013

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Macau Grand Prix: The final exam for racers

Posted: 06 Nov 2013 02:00 PM PST

With less than a week to go until the checkered flag comes down on the first race of the 60th Macau Grand Prix, China's gambling enclave is already showing all the fevered activity of a pit crew slamming a fresh set of tires on an F3 racer.

The rat-run of streets that makes up the 6.12 kilometers (3.8-mile) Guia Circuit track -- at some points a bare 7 meters (22 feet) wide -- are already hemmed in by 20-foot-high cyclone fencing reinforced with one-inch thick cables to protect the estimated 200,000 spectators expected to flock to Macau for the six-day event.

Workers are lighting up the night with the blue flash of arc welders as crews work around the clock on crash barriers, stands and the new control tower that will form part of the landmark diamond jubilee year of the Macau Grand Prix.

More on CNN: Best of Macau

Hub of calm amid chaos

Macau Grand Prix Macau is the only place in the world to stage motorcycle, twin-seat car and F3 single-seat races at the same event.For Macau Grand Prix coordinator Joao Manuel Costa Antunes -- whose office sits like a silent hub amid the controlled chaos of the construction work -- transforming the world's most densely populated city into a racetrack is a logistical work of art.

"This year we're looking at 13 races over two weekends with 350 cars coming for the event from around the world -- to organize this in such a small city, the logistics are not easy," says Costa Antunes.

Urban thoroughfares will be cleared between 6 a.m. and 6 p.m. to allow F3 racers to reach speeds in excess of 275 kmh (170 mph) along streets normally choked with minibuses and motor scooters.

To achieve this, Costa Antunes calls on a small army of 2,000 professionals to provide safety, security and medical care.

Some 58 doctors, 80 paramedics, ambulances and the fire brigade are on standby throughout the event. Organizers have commissioned an "extrication vehicle" -- the grim title for a van carrying a specialist squad trained in separating drivers from burning race cars.

More on CNN: 10 things to know before visiting Macau

The Macau Grand Prix is the only race in the world that stages motorcycle, twin-seat cars and F3 single-seat races at the same event. Costa Antunes says the dangers of the motorcycle race in particular -- racers regularly cut corners so closely that their shoulders scrape crash barriers -- means medical crews have to be on high alert.

"This circuit is technically very difficult -- it's what's known as mixed meaning -- part of the track is very fast with straight track and part of it is very detailed with tight curves," says Costa Antunes. "It means you have to be a very good driver. You cannot fail.

"Drivers need to handle the course with full control. We're talking about a track where taking a corner at 10 centimeters or 20 centimeters can make all the difference."

More on CNN: House of Dancing Water: Secrets behind the world's biggest water show

A race that forges reputations

Macau's streets are too narrow and its World Heritage buildings too valuable for the former Portuguese colony to widen its circuit to accommodate Formula 1 races, but Costa Antunes says that the smaller F3 race is no less important on the race calendar.

Macau Grand Prix The narrow racecourse runs past many of Macau's heritage buildings.

"The year I arrived in Macau, in 1983, the famous Ayrton Senna won the F3 and many other F3 podium drivers in Macau were immediately promoted to F1," says Costa Antunes, who originally hails from Lisbon, Portugal. "Macau has become a testing ground -- we have had Michael Schumacher, Ralf Schumacher, Mika Hakkinen.

"Among the old F1 drivers, around 15 or 16 drivers drove in Macau. This place is really like their final examination before moving into the big league."

More on CNN: Macau's best casinos: Where to gamble, where to let loose

For these race veterans, Macau represents something of a car racing frat house -- a time when drivers were young, reputations were forged and brat packs formed.

"When Michael Schumacher won in Macau in 1990, we were not immediately aware that we were living in an historic moment for Macau -- he was just one driver -- but one year later when he won the F1 in Monaco at the press conference he mentioned Macau in the same breath as Monaco," says Costa Antunes.

"Many, many drivers keep Macau in their hearts because it's part of their youth -- a time when crazy things happened and life was fun."

More than a few of these veterans are expected to be back in Macau to celebrate the Grand Prix's diamond jubilee and casino clubs such as the Galaxy Macau's China Rouge are hosting lavish parties for pit pass holders, celebrities and racing legends.

More on CNN: Top-notch hotel under $100: Macau's best boutique stay

Felix da Costa attempts repeat performance

At the business end of the racing, Portuguese ace Antonio Felix da Costa will return this year to defend his title.

If he's successful, he'll become only the second driver to win the Macau Grand Prix twice since it became an F3 race in 1983.

Italian Edoardo Mortara remains the only driver to hold consecutive victory honors, with Macau victories in 2010 and 2011.

"I know the level in Macau will be really high with so many good drivers racing in F3 and others from really competitive championships," Da Costa told local media.

As for the rest of Macau, while the race still has its detractors -- those who complain that the city goes into Grand Prix lockdown for a fortnight -- Costa Antunes says surveys show 80% of Macau residents love the race.

"It's about the excitement and the memories; it's an unforgettable two weeks not just for Macau but for many people from around the world," he says. "We have more than 30,000 hotel rooms in Macau and not one of them will be empty during the Grand Prix."

Macau Grand Prix, November 9 to 10, 14 to 17, see the race schedule here

CNN Travel's series often carries sponsorship originating from the countries and regions we profile. However, CNN retains full editorial control over all of its reports. Read the policy.

Wednesday, November 6, 2013

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Rare Berlin Wall watchtower still standing tall

Posted: 05 Nov 2013 10:00 PM PST

An unlikely benefactor gives an original East German watchtower a lasting presence
Berlin Wall watchtower

Berlin Wall watchtowerLast of the approximately 200 BT-6 watchtowers built by East Germany.Walk from Berlin's busy Potsdamer Platz along Stresemannstrasse and you likely won't even notice one of the most menacing Cold War relics in the city standing just a few feet away.

Yet lost behind a pretty veil of sycamore trees and dwarfed by modern block buildings, there it stands like a gloomy sentinel—the last remaining  BT-6-style watchtower from the Berlin Wall.

Until the November 9, 1989, collapse of the Wall, a pair of armed East German soldiers could be seen constantly manning the three-story-high tower, which stood steps away from the Berlin Wall.

The last standing structure of its kind in Berlin, the BT-6 watchtower (the oldest type of tower left along the Wall) has recently been restored and is now open for visitors to climb.

When the Berlin Wall fell, there were around 200 such BT-6 watchtowers and 302 watchtowers in total along the Wall. They were placed 250-300 meters apart, a distance that matched the shooting range of an AK-47 assault rifle.

Like the Berlin Wall itself, most of the watchtowers were destroyed after reunification.

Why save a tower?

Berlin Wall watchtowerIt's a steep climb to the top of the tower.The watchtower, which is located on Erna-Berger-Strasse, survives thanks to the efforts of a passionate, if unlikely benefactor.

"I want this watchtower to be a visible reminder of the (decades) of Germany's tragic division," says Jörg Moser-Metius, CEO of the Berlin Wall Exhibition, a private initiative that maintains and operates the site.

Born in West Germany, Moser-Metius moved to West Berlin in 1974 and has lived in the city ever since.

He personally witnessed the fall of the Berlin Wall in November 1989.

"Walls are no political solutions, not on the Korea Peninsular, in Israel or anywhere else, and every dictatorship will end one day with consequences for their leaders," Moser-Metius says, explaining the message he hopes people take away from a tower visit.

An amateur historian, Moser-Metius first noticed the watchtower about 10 years ago.

At the time, it was totally obstructed by surrounding trees and had been left to decay.

Berlin Wall watchtowerJörg Moser-Metius in Berlin on November 11, 1989."I researched the owner, which turned out to be the City of Berlin, presented them with a short idea for renovation and maintenance and signed a contract with the obligation to rebuild it within one year," Moser-Metius says.

He entered into an agreement with the City of Berlin in 2012, completed his restoration and opened the tower to the public about six months ago. He says the tower now receives an average of 350 visitors a day.

The exact date the tower was constructed is unknown, but Moser-Metius says the East German government started building BT-6 towers in 1966 to achieve panoramic surveillance.

According to Moser-Metius, at least three other square towers from the Wall, each built after 1972, remain intact, as well.

Moser-Metius financed the BT-6 tower restoration himself.

He prefers not to reveal the cost of the project, calling it his "sweet secret," but says the process was partially aided by local craft guilds and trade unions, who sent apprentices to perform restoration work under the supervision of masters.

Every day from 2-6 p.m. (excluding rainy days), Moser-Metius or one of his colleagues stands outside the gate of the watchtower sharing old photographs and stories of the Berlin Wall.

Taken around Christmas 2001, one picture shows the decaying tower, engulfed by the glass-walled high rises in Potsdamer Platz, with a cheerily lit Christmas tree on top of the roof.

Watchtower just the start

Berlin Wall watchtowerMoser-Metius at entrance of the watchtower today.Visitors ascend two flights of tiny iron ladders, connected by a half circular landing, to reach the tower's roughly four-square-meter octagonal cabinet.

Here, two East German soldiers would stand back to back in three shifts around the clock, one looking toward the "friendly" East side, the other toward the "enemy" West.

Visitors can lift heavy metal shutters under the panoramic windows, from which the soldiers would fire toward East Germans who made attempts to approach the Wall.

The opening of the watchtower is only a beginning point in Moser-Metius's blueprint for re-telling Berlin's history.

He brings up his plans for a theme park next to the watchtower, which he hopes will contain a 360-degree, 3-D reconstruction of the Berlin Wall between Potsdamer Platz and Brandenburg Gate.

Moser-Metius is in the process of fundraising for the park.

"Hopefully, this tower will serve as the conspicuous anchor for a park devoted to this particular mile of the death strip that once divided my own city and country," says Moser-Metius.

He notes that the tower is located in close proximity to the former Checkpoint Charlie on Friedrichstrasse, the Brandenburg Gate and the Holocaust Memorial on Cora-Berliner-Strasse. Together, he says, the attractions might form a "historical path" of Berlin for tourists.

East German BT-6 Watchtower, Erna-Berger-Strasse, Berlin Mitte; open daily 2-6 p.m. (excluding raining days); €3.50

Tuesday, November 5, 2013

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