Wednesday, September 4, 2013

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Britain's most beautiful views -- no, not just the postcard shots

Posted: 04 Sep 2013 12:00 AM PDT

Britain may be a teeny country, but what it lacks in size it's long made up for in imperial ambitions and spectacular views, natural or otherwise.

The imperial ambition has waned a little in recent decades, but the ample beauty remains.

Yet most of the British population, stuck in cities, take the stunning vistas on offer throughout the country for granted.

Tourists, too, often make do with standard fare.

Yes, the views of Buckingham Palace from the Mall, or of Center Court from a seat at Wimbledon, are worth taking in.

But dig around and you'll find rarer visual jewels.

The only risk of gobbling down the jumble of British views in the gallery above?

You might actually have to go and see more of them in the flesh.

London Eye

It may be obvious that a list of British views needs a central London vantage point.

But London's so big, so stuffed with historical monuments, you're spoiled for perspectives.

The newly opened Shard (now Europe's tallest building), with its viewing platform, and the Gherkin (formally known as 30 St. Mary Axe), with its elite top-floor restaurant, have a certain obvious perpendicular appeal, but only the London Eye offers a double whammy.

From it, you can view a Waterloo sunset over the higgledy-piggledy old city and a 360-degree view of London at the same time.

More: 13 scary-but-awesome viewing platforms

Mwnt, Wales

MwntMwnt ... who needs vowels when you're as beautiful as this Welsh beach.Britain has a myriad of beautiful bays, but there's something about the cove of Mwnt Beach at Cardigan that's so picture perfect you might believe it's merely a Sunday painter's invention.

Stay long enough and you may spot dolphins or seals, but the view from the clifftop as you descend to the sands is reward enough after a country drive or cycle -- and certainly makes up for that tongue-twisting absence of vowels.

More information at VisitCardigan.com.

Stonehenge, Wiltshire

This ancient monument may be on every tourist's "to-see" list, but, given the site's tricky positioning and crowded visitor facilities, many will only see it as they slow down on the A303 on their way to Bath or Salisbury.

Do that and you're missing out.

Stonehenge is such a mysterious artifact you want to get as close as possible to try to guess at how the stones got there and why.

Normally, the closest you'll get is 10 meters, from behind a low barrier. But plan ahead and you can book a small-group Stone Circle Access visit at the magical hours of dawn or dusk.

Margate's sunsets, Kent

The British artist JMW Turner had a pretty good eye for skyscapes, so his assertion that the "skies over Thanet are the loveliest in all Europe" sounds like one worth testing

Fortunately there's now an appropriately named gallery in Margate, a seaside town within Turner's recommended locale, from which you can enjoy this view.

Looking west from Turner Contemporary as the sun falls into the sea you're likely to witness a scene every bit as stunning as the great painter's works.

Holkham Bay, Norfolk

Emerging from the wooded paths on your way to the sea at this lonely Norfolk spot, you're greeted with a breathtaking panorama, where sky, beach and sea seem to go on forever.

Looking into the distance you see the sand being blown low across the beach, creating floating apparitions from the dog walkers and beachcombers.

It's a predictably mystic apparition that makes you understand why poets have gone all mushy about Britain over the centuries.

Hadrian's Wall, northern England

Hadrian's WallHadrian's Wall: Makes you want to run around with a sword ... some of us, anywayWide open green spaces you long to run across with a sword, yelling, equally enormous skies and its status, according to the official body English Heritage, as Britain's most outstanding Roman monument make this defensive wall the place to take in historic views that have changed little in 2,000 years.

The view from the Cawfields section of the wall near the Northumberland town of Halfwhistle is one of the most spectacular -- but walk a whole length of the fortification and you'll find a selection of vantage points that show why the Romans wanted to prevent those rebellious northerners from getting their hands (back) on this green and pleasant land.

OK, it probably wasn't very pleasant back then, but it must have looked lovely.

More information at Visithadrianswall.co.uk.

Isle of Skye, Scotland

Scotland's highlands and islands contain some of Britain's most dramatic geography -- and with it comes remarkable scenery that may prove more memorable than the golf and whisky trail.

The Isle of Skye has particularly good Northern Lights watching and remains one of Britain's least polluted and least cluttered places that's still easy enough to get to.

More information at Skye.co.uk.

Blackpool's piers, Lancashire

The seaside pier is a great British institution, replete with the clank of penny arcades, the clanging of funfair rides and the Proustian scents of candy floss.

Blackpool has long been a favorite of the British working classes, but it barely gets a look in from overseas visitors.

That's a shame, especially given the sweeping, one-day-son-all-this-will-be-yours views of its Las Vegas-meets-Coney Island charms available from Britain's own Tour Eiffel, the Blackpool Tower.

More information at Visitblackpool.com.

Giant's Causeway, Northern Ireland

Northern Ireland's prime visitor attraction is such a striking geographical feature it'll virtually fill your camera's memory by itself.

The basalt columns were formed by a giant who wanted to fight a neighboring ogre ... or simply by cooling lava. You decide.

More information at Nationaltrust.org.uk.

Cuckmere Haven, Sussex

Cuckmere HavenMeandering Cuckmere River has created ribbon-like oxbow lakes. Bachelor uncles and other geography fans will be delighted with a day trip to Cuckmere Haven, near the Sussex seaside town of Eastbourne.

The Cuckmere River snakes across the flood plain, where its meandering has formed oxbow lakes shaped like furled ribbons.

Its natural beauty cropped up in "Robin Hood: Prince of Thieves" and features in the artwork of the local painter Eric Ravilious.

More information at Nationaltrust.org.uk.

View from the Thames

Being up high in London gives you a superb view of the city and its sprawl, but that aspect is perfectly counter-pointed by the view from the Thames itself.

Traveling up the Thames on a River Bus or one of the speedy rib cruises you get a unique view of the city and its historic roots.

You won't find a finer view of Parliament.

Ribblehead Viaduct, North Yorkshire

Industrial beauty may be an acquired taste, but this graceful manmade structure certainly adds something to the rural landscape.

The 19th-century bridge, built entirely from limestone bricks, also exemplifies the British engineering genius for which Britain was celebrated around the world  -- when the country still made things.

The wonder of the viaduct is that you can enjoy the view of it as well as the view from it, as the Settle-Carlisle train service runs across the structure.

The train route itself offers some of the best views of Britain that you can enjoy on the go.

More information at Visitcumbria.com.

Edinburgh from the castle

Hefting yourself up to an elevated view can make a visual payoff all the stronger, and that certainly applies with the perspective of Edinburgh from the castle sitting above the city.

There's plenty of local architecture to enjoy on the way up, before the "wow" as you see the city set out below you.

More information at EdinburghCastle.gov.uk.

Buttermere, Lake District

ButtermereWouldn't melt in its rivermouth ... Buttermere just looks more lovely in the rain.The Lake District is heaven for types who always keep a stout pair of shoes, a raincoat and a flask of tea in the car.

But ramblers -- "hikers" will do for non-Brits -- love it so much partly for its plethora of astounding views.

Buttermere Lake is the finest of many walkers' visual rewards.

The rain only makes the surrounding hillsides look more painterly and lush.

More information at VisitCumbria.com.

Chesil Beach, Dorset

Another one for the aspiring geologist or simply the lover of natural beauty.

This endless, faintly curving, 20-kilometer stretch of shingle is like a scimitar slice along the Dorset coast.

It used to be prized smugglers' territory -- they could tell where they were on the beach by the size of the shingles, apparently -- as well as the setting for "On Chesil Beach," Ian McEwan's novel of bad sex and doomed love.

More information at ChesilBeach.org.

Iain Aitch is the author of the Britain travel books "We're British, Innit" and "A Fête Worse Than Death."

Major culinary breakthrough! A dinner made entirely of desserts

Posted: 03 Sep 2013 10:50 PM PDT

"No dessert until you finish your dinner."

Weary at the thought of choking back the limp pile of broccoli pushed to the side on the plate, many a sugar-mad kid has sighed in defeat upon hearing mom utter those dreaded words, preempting any hopes of gaining early access to the cookie jar.  

As adults, we don't mind broccoli all that much.

But for many, the love of sweets hasn't diminished. 

That's why chef Roger van Damme of Michelin-starred Het Gebaar in Antwerp, Belgium, is getting a lot of attention for his incredible dinner made entirely of desserts.

More: Seoul hotels at war over dessert

Often called the "godfather of molecular pastry," the chef showed off his beautifully crafted dishes during an innovative five-course "dessert for dinner" event as part of the Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok's annual World Gourmet Festival.

Prettier than anything ever pulled out of mom's cookie jar. ​Van Damme -- no relation to the "muscles from Brussels" (we know you were wondering) -- says he's inspired by everything from Belgian painter Roger Raveel and the architecture of the famed Brussels Atomium to the Antwerp botanical gardens and the colors of Lego blocks.

He acknowledges that an entire meal made of dessert might be too sugary for some.

And by the end of the Four Seasons dinner, there a few people in the crowd craving something salty.

More: 10 best Sydney bakeries

But the taste combinations and ingredients, including bergamot, five-spice, gingerbread, pistachio and clove, as well as fresh fruits, tonka and Belgian chocolate, made the meal of desserts less daunting than it sounds.

"I try to seduce the diner with the beautiful appearance of the dessert, using different textures and interesting tastes," says Van Damme. 

"There's a large difference between the levels of sweetness in each dessert -- if they were all very sweet, it would indeed be too much."

Check out the above gallery for photos of some of his beautiful dishes. 

The 14th Four Seasons World Gourmet Festival is taking place in Bangkok from now until Sunday. Highlights include: Chef Vito Mollica of Michelin-starred Il Palagio in Florence, Italy; Chef Paco Perez, Miramar Restaurant, Llançà, Spain; Chef Jérôme Bonnet, Restaurant Daniel, Paris, France; and Chef Hirohisa Koyama, Aoyagi, Tokyo, Japan.

More information is available on the official WGF page.

Would you choose an airline based on its menu?

Posted: 03 Sep 2013 03:00 PM PDT

Many airlines employ or consult top-rated chefs for their business class menus; but do passengers care?
airline chef

Pan-seared scallops, artichoke sauce with white truffle, crisp polenta and sugar snap peas.

If that sounds like the kind of meal you'd get at a Michelin-starred restaurant, you're not wrong.

But instead of the soft tones of violins or pianos, the soundtrack to this meal comprises jet engine roars and requests to fasten your seatbelt.

They're items from the menu Air France began serving to select business class passengers from February this year.

Michel Roth is the latest Michelin-starred chef working with Air France to provide the highest paying passengers with quality cuisine.

He follows in the footsteps of fellow Frenchmen Joel Robuchon and Guy Martin.

gourmet airline foodTop chefs like Michel Roth are the latest darlings of the airline industry. "It's not about a gimmick or outdoing your competitors," says Godwin Mak, marketing and communications manager, Air France and KLM. "It's about keeping your customer satisfied."

It's one of the ways airlines are now trying to woo and retain their most valuable passengers.

KLM World Business Class has employed top international chef and culinary director at Michelin star Amber restaurant in Hong Kong, Richard Ekkebus.

Last year before the London Olympics, British Airways launched an in-flight menu for first and business class created by Heston Blumenthal and Michelin-star chef Simon Hulstone.

Customers expect more

"Customers are becoming increasingly discerning when it comes to in-flight food, and expect the very best from airlines, particularly full-service carriers like us," says Mark Tazzioli, British Airways menu design manager.

In spite of the challenges to designing and preparing elaborate menus for consumption at high altitude, the trend seems here to stay.

"Everyone has a strong opinion about airline food," says Ekkebus. "But few people are aware that they encounter a loss of 20% of their five taste buds when eating a meal at over 10,000 feet.

"This is the main reason people find food bland and tasteless on planes. These challenges are what makes it so interesting to get involved; to try to find a way to overcome them."

He tries to overcomes the issue by working with concentrated flavors, herbs and spices.

There are limitations.

"All food needs to fit on small plates and needs to be prepared, then properly cooled down to ensure it can be kept until it can be reheated safely," Ekkebus says.

It's important to ensure that what you want to achieve is realistic, he adds.

"Dishes need to please a broad spectrum of passengers, with cultural, religious, dietary and taste differences."

More: Skip the pasta! And other unsavory truths about airplane food

gourmet airline foodIf it tastes as good as it looks, we're on board.British Airways' Tazzioli also acknowledges challenges with designing menus to be eaten on a plane.

"We challenged Heston (Blumenthal) to come up with the ultimate in-flight dish, the taste of which wouldn't be compromised by cabin pressure, low humidity and high altitude's effects on taste buds," he says.

One of Blumenthal's recommendations was to use ingredients high in umami, a savory flavor known as the "fifth taste," which occurs naturally in foods such as seaweed, tomatoes, mackerel and parmesan cheese.

There's a chance those in economy class could benefit.

"We will partner with chefs on a selective basis where we think this adds value for our customers. This could apply to any class of travel," says Tazzioli.  

Economy improves too

KLM and Air France are among the growing number of airlines that now provide more up-market options for their economy-class passengers.

You can order from an a la carte menu prior to traveling -- at an additional cost of course.

"This option has proven to be very popular," Mak says. "We offer a three-course meal including entrée, main and dessert on most intercontinental flights."

Ekkebus is in favor of airlines providing more quality dining options in coach.

"This could be done by other food professionals, not only by Michelin-starred chefs," he says. "I think every chef has the ability to bring a fresh perspective, to bring innovation to airline menus."

Can food be enough to entice business travelers?

David Hughes, a frequent corporate traveler, says he can't imagine a situation where he would pick an airline based on the food.

"The main choice parameters for me are; safety, schedule, price, comfort and frequent flyer program -- being treated as 'special,'" he says.

Hughes does concede that employing celebrity chefs can show the airline is "doing everything it can to treat you special, and we're investing in you by splashing out on chefs who know what they're talking about."

Ekkebus says customer feedback indicates they're enjoying the fine dining experience. 

The response to British Airway's umami menus has also been extremely positive according to Tazzioli.

Would you choose an airline based on its menu? Leave a comment.

CNN Parts Unknown Challenge: Hong Kong

Posted: 02 Sep 2013 12:51 AM PDT

Be Bourdain for a day: Win a trip for two to Tokyo by going on foodie scavenger hunt

Where can you dine in an old prison cell? Where are the smallest wontons in Hong Kong? 

Anthony Bourdain returns to CNN with the  Season 2 premiere of Anthony Bourdain: Parts Unknown on September 16. To mark the occasion, we've donned the apron with Little Adventures in Hong Kong to serve up a whirlwind scavenger hunt for foodies. 

The CNN Parts Unknown Challenge will get 12 teams of two racing through the streets of Hong Kong to complete a series of food-related challenges involving five secret ingredients. 

Is this the best wonton soup in Hong Kong? The event is open to both Chinese and English speakers. The winning Chinese-speaking and English-speaking team will each win a trip for two to Tokyo. 

Anthony Bourdain will judge one of the challenges remotely and announce the winner on his Twitter feed. The winners will also be announced on the CNN Travel Facebook Page

Conditions: 

  • Participants must hold a Hong Kong passport or ID card and be free to take part on Saturday October 5 from 1p.m. 
  • There is a social media element to this challenge so please ensure you have a registered Twitter and Instagram account.

Watch Season 2 of Anthony Bourdain: Parts Unknown in Chinese

Launching on September 16, Anthony Bourdain Parts Unknown Season 2 airs Mondays at 9 a.m., Fridays at 10 p.m. and Sundays at 9 a.m. HKT on CNN International. This season, traditional Chinese subtitling will be available for Hong Kong viewers.

Tuesday, September 3, 2013

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Nazi tourist attraction to get $90 million makeover

Posted: 02 Sep 2013 11:00 PM PDT

To demolish or do up? Backdrop to infamous propaganda film to become learning center
Zeppelin Tribune

It was the staging ground for one of the most notorious pieces of Nazi propaganda.

Leni Riefenstahl's film "Triumph of the Will" -- simultaneously reviled for glorifying an evil ideology and, later, reluctantly admired for its cinematic mastery -- owed some of its power to its setting, the vast Nazi party rallying grounds in Nuremberg.

Although left to disintegrate since World War II, the site is still visited by more than 200,000 tourists a year.

Now, the Nuremberg city government is to spend €70 million ($92 million) on its restoration, the Independent reports.

Inevitably the plans will raise controversy about the wisdom -- or morality -- of preserving sites associated with the murderous National Socialist regime.

More on CNN: 8 lairs of former tyrants

Are such monuments a necessary reminder of a period of human depravity, whose preservation might help to prevent something similar from happening again?

Or should they be left to crumble into dust -- disappear, just as the murderous regime responsible for them was destroyed?

Remains such as the site of Hitler's Bunker and the Gestapo headquarters in Berlin, and the Nazi rallying grounds in Nuremberg, are important stops on the tourist circuit in Germany.

The Nuremberg grounds, including 24 towers and an imposing, stepped stage -- the "Zeppelin Tribune" -- from which Hitler liked to rant at his massed followers, was designed by the Nazi party's house architect, Albert Speer, but never completed.

"International outrage"

Nuremberg's mayor, Ulrich Maly, described the dilemma the city faced in deciding what to do with the sweeping, 11-square-kilometer ex-National Socialist site.

"Demolishing the buildings would provoke international outrage -- so we are going to renovate the complex, but this does not mean that we are sprucing it up," Maly said.

More on CNN: Battlefields and bunkers: Exploring Okinawa's World War II history

The mayor acknowledged that many Nuremberg residents would like the grounds to disintegrate, as the symbol of a passed era.

Yet, he pointed out, that would oblige the city to fence off the grounds or otherwise prevent the public from visiting.

"So we have decided to renovate to a certain degree," Maly told the Süddeutsche Zeitung.

The renovation will include preserving postwar graffiti left by allied soldiers.

Nuremberg's long-term plan is to turn the rallying grounds into a site of historical learning, reports the German English-language news the service The Local.

More on CNN: Back to the USSR: Soviet tourism posters on show

The parade ground is not the only Nazi relic and tourist site to have been promised a cash revival.

Hitler's Bavarian mountain retreat, the Eagle's Nest, is to receive a $22.5 million upgrade, partly to improve its historical information center.

Would you renovate Nuremberg's rally grounds or demolish the remnants of the Nazi party? Let us know in the comments section.

Surprising Nanjing: Mini-guide to China's ancient capital

Posted: 02 Sep 2013 03:00 PM PDT

China's "southern capital" is re-emerging as a center for Chinese culture, food and one strangely beautiful bookstore

​Visit Nanjing ("southern capital" in Chinese) and you start to wonder how the city could remain such a secret among international travelers.

Sure, the capital of the Jiangsu province in eastern China isn't as fashionable as Shanghai.

Nor is its architecture as majestic as Beijing's.

But the immense wealth of well-preserved Chinese culture and history, architecture unique to China's Minguo era (1912-1949) and roots of one of China's finest cuisines are highly alluring.

Then there's an emerging hipster scene that radiates just beneath the city's traditional surface.

With the Youth Olympic Games coming to the city in 2014, it's easy to see why this city of 8 million is becoming China's cool kid all over again.

Hotels

The InterContinental Nanjing offers the best hotel-based views of the city.

InterContinental Nanjing

​The tallest building in Nanjing, unobstructed views of the city and a killer central location make the InterContinental Nanjing the city's landmark hotel.

In the 450-meter-high Zifeng Tower, the hotel has 433 rooms and suites, all placed on the 49th floor or higher.

The bars and restaurants on the 45th and 78th floors may be the best location to view Nanjing.

InterContinental Nanjing, 1 Central Road (Zhong Yang Road), Gulou District, Nanjing; +86 25 8353 8888; from CNY 1,100 ($180) per night


Unlimited supply of hot spring water in your villa's private Jacuzzi. Kayumanis Nanjing

​The Balinese resort brand's first overseas venture is hidden in Nanjing's Tangshan, the hot spring area 40 minutes from the city center.

It's the most luxurious hotel in Nanjing or surrounding area.

The resort has 20 villas -- all done up in different themes with private pools, outdoor Jacuzzis with hot spring water, a spa center and reasonably good restaurant, "Nine."

Guests can take classes ranging from yoga to calligraphy.

Kayumanis Nanjing, 12 Wenquan Road, Tangshan Town, Nanjing; +86 25 8410 7777; from CNY 4,180 ($685) per night


Jinling Hotel

​The first business hotel in Nanjing and once the tallest high-rise in China, the 37-story Jinling Hotel houses 585 rooms and suites.  

Founded in 1982, the state-approved hotel has served countless international political leaders.

The interior design is classy, service is excellent.

The hotel also has an award-winning restaurant, Plum Garden, the first revolving restaurant in China. It's on the 36th floor.

Jinling Hotel, Xin Jie Kou Square, Nanjing; +86 25 8471 1888; from CNY 1,048 ($170) per night

Food

Nanjing What to eatThe most time-efficient way to sample Qinhuai treasures all at once.

Plum Garden

Originating in Nanjing, ​Jinling cuisine is one of the leading cuisine categories in China.

The best introduction is at Plum Garden.

The award-winning restaurant in the Jinling Hotel serves savory salted duck, a local specialty made by marinating the finest duck in a special brine.

Another classic Jinling dish (you may have to order it off the menu) is deep-fried Mandarin fish, commonly known as squirrel fish. The de-boned fish is deep-fried and seasoned with sweet and sour sauce.

Plum Garden, 2/F, Jinling Hotel, Xin Jie Kou Square, Nanjing; open daily, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m., 6-10 p.m.; +86 25 8471 1888 (ext.4204)


Ma Xiang Xing

​Maybe the oldest restaurant in Nanjing, Ma Xiang Xing Halal restaurant was founded more than 160 years ago as a humble street stall.

It's the birthplace of famous Jinling dishes, including "squirrel fish" and "phoenix tail shrimp."

The upper floors are good for a proper sit-down meal, whereas the first floor diner serves smaller and quicker meals for cheaper prices.


Nanjing What to eatThe draw at Nanjing Impressions is the theatrical gimmick, but the food isn't bad.Nanjing Impressions

Retro interior design, staff in Minguo-era dress and traditional Chinese performance -- walking into this restaurant is like entering a theater.

Now a chain restaurant, Nanjing Impressions maintains a good standard in all its branches. 

Recommended foods include spicy crayfish, duck soup dumpling and stewed meatballs.

Visitors should try a sweet congee named after Song Meiling, wife of former Chinese president Chiang Kai-shek. It's said that Song was a huge fan of the congee.

Nanjing Impressions, No. 2, Lion Bridge, Hunan Road, Nanjing; +86 25 8330 5777


Confucius Temple food street

​This area made famous by the Confucius Temple has also been named one of four major small-eats areas in China.

Locals complain about a recent decline in quality, but it's still the best place to sample lots of Nanjing flavors in one place while admiring the view of the Qinhuai River.

In its glory days, eight sets of its small eats were dubbed the eight treasures of Qinhuai.

Traditional foods to try include qifangge (ghee baked cake) and jiangyouji (fried beef dumplings).

Nightlife

Nanjing where to drinkCastle Bar, the only underground rock music venue in Nanjing.

New Castle Bar/C-Lounge

"Where are we going to see live performances in Nanjing now?"

This was a common refrain among Nanjingers who gasped like lost children when the Castle Bar recently hung a "closed" sign on its front door.

Fortunately, the bar was just moving to a new location, taking with it the promise of the same cool gigs and cheap drinks that made it a legend among the city's party crowd.

Founded in 1999, Castle Bar has become the biggest -- if not the only -- venue for underground indie rock music in town.

More good news -- the same ownership group has opened a new venue: C-Lounge, an up-market version of Castle Bar, with sophisticated cocktails and what it calls Nanjing's best-looking bar staff.

New Castle Bar, 2/F Fusheng Building, 1 Fu Hougang, Gulou District, Nanjing; opening hours depend on performance schedules

C-Lounge, 237 Zhongshan East Road, Nanjing; +86 152 5248 2023; open daily 7 p.m.-3 a.m.

where to drink in NanjingThe 61 House is a local favorite for drinks.61House Bar & Restaurant

​Located in Nanjing's university district, 61House, a converted bomb shelter, is the hippest bar in town.

A restaurant by day and meeting point at night, the underground watering hole also has a spacious al fresco area upstairs.

Although it no longer hosts live concerts, the unique vibe of the bar attracts a crowd from nearby universities.

It's not far from Shanghai Street, where many more stylish bars are located.

61House Bar & Restaurant, 61 Hankou Xi Lu, Nanjing; +86 25 8320 5979; open daily from 9 a.m. till late


1912

​If you can't decide which Nanjing bar to check out first, the 1912 district might be helpful.

The primary up-market nightlife district in Nanjing aims to be a local version of Xintiandi in Shanghai or Lan Kwai Fong in Hong Kong.

An interesting feature to 1912 is that its restaurants, bars and clubs are all housed in gray-brick historic buildings dating to the period around 1912.


InterContinental Prime/Sky Bar

No list of Nanjing nightlife is complete without the city's highest restaurant and bar, Prime.

On the 78th floor of the InterContinental, the bar serves as a cigar lounge, champagne and wine lounge and martini bar, stocking a wide range of labels.

The hotel is also home to the modern Sky Bar on the 45th floor.

InterContinental Nanjing, 1 Central Road (Zhong Yang Road), Gulou District, Nanjing; +86 25 8353 8888

Attractions

 Linggu ParkLinggu Pagoda sits peacefully in Nanjing's Purple Mountain.

Zhongshan Mountain National Park

​Nanjing doesn't have the jaw-dropping skyscrapers of other major Chinese cities, but it has something as enviable -- a scenic lake and mountain area smashed into the city center.

Even better, dotted amid the natural scenery are historic sites.

Zhongshan Mountain National Park in Purple Mountain has some of the most important attractions in Nanjing: 

Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum is a majestic resting place for Sun, the father of modern China.

Xiaoling Tomb of the Ming Dynasty and Linggu Temple are parts of a large-scale and scenic Buddhist temple complex.

The park provides train-like "sightseeing vehicles" between each location (CNY 5 per ride).

Visitors can also hike on paved roads between each spot. 

Private tour cart service (CNY 200) is available, but it's not recommended in locations such as Ming Xiaoling, because carts aren't allowed to go into the actual area.  

Zhongshan Mountain National Park; free entrance for Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum, combined ticket for Xiaoling Tomb, Lingu Temple and Open-Air Music Hall (a plaza next to Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum) costs CNY 115 ($18); +86 25 8443 7786


 NanjingThe palace is far more magnificent inside than it appears on the outside.Presidential Palace

​The two-dimensional, gray front gate understates the vast, beautiful and significant Presidential Palace.

The immense palace dates back six centuries.

Apart from images of scenes from various eras and well-preserved historic artifacts, beautifully symmetric gardens and courtyards are highlights of the palace.

From the garden house that amplifies the sound of trees in the rain to a confidential meeting room in the middle of a lake, the palace is a historic theme park.

Presidential Palace, CNY 40 ($6.50); open daily 7:30 a.m.-6 p.m. (March-October), 7:30 a.m.-5:30 p.m. (November) and 8 a.m.-5 p.m. (December-February); tour guide available for CNY 100 (in Chinese) or CNY 150 (in English) for groups of 10 or fewer.


Nanjing Massacre Memorial Hall

Documenting the most heartbreaking chapter in the city's history, the Nanjing Massacre Memorial Hall is a must-see.

Built in 1985 on the site of a former mass burial ground (part of it is displayed), the contemporary museum commemorates the death of about 300,000 Nanjing citizens during Japanese occupation in World War II.

The museum is informative, with wartime stories that will chill your spine told by witnesses and victims. This is an extremely sobering experience.

Signage is in Chinese and English.

Nanjing Massacre Memorial Hall418 Shuiximen St., Nanjing; open Tuesday-Sunday, 8:30 a.m.-4:30 p.m.; free entry

Activities

Nanjing what to doAfter being voted most beautiful book shop in China, Librairie Avant-Garde has become a Nanjing landmark.​​Librairie Avant-Garde

While reading at a book shop may not be at the top of most travelers' wish lists, Librairie Avant-Garde isn't just any book shop.

Voted the most beautiful book shop in China in 2009, Librairie Avant-Garde is located in an unusual location -- an underground car park.

Some of the old car park décor has been retained, there are numerous open spaces and seats for readers to read in and famous poems are carved on each pillar in the shop.

Owner Qian Xiaohua hopes to turn a bookshop into a library, coffee shop and intellectual forum venue as well as an exhibition space for art.

Librairie Avant-Garde, 173 Guangzhou Lu, Nanjing; +86 25 8371 1455

Hot springs

Some 30 kilometers from Nanjing city center sits one of the best hot spring areas in China -- Tangshan ("soup mountain").

Once an exclusive hot spring area for the royals and nobles, Tangshan's hot spring has a history going back 1,500 years.

The water temperature remains at around 60C (140F) throughout the year, with rich mineral substances in the waters.

Visitors can stay in a hot spring resort such as Regalia on the hill or Kayumanis in the foothills, or head to EASpring, which is open to the public with dozens of pools, from Chinese medicine baths to wine and coffee baths.

Chiang Kai-shek built a vacation home here for he and his wife.

A taxi from the city center to Tangshan costs about CNY 100 ($16).

EASpring Nanjing, 8 Wenquan Road, Tangshan Town, Nanjing; +86 25 5119 0666; entrance fee CNY 218 (bring own swimwear), some baths have additional charges

what to see in NanjingA stroll around Diaoyutai in southern Nanjing yields views of the Qinhuai River and old-style houses like this one.​​​Old Nanjing

As in any rapidly developing city, Nanjing's old buildings are vanishing, making way for new development.

A visit to southern Nanjing still offers a glimpse of the city's old life.

A nostalgic tour can start from Zhonghua Gate, site of the oldest and best-preserved city wall in China, the Ming City Wall.

Gan's Grand Courtyard, the biggest preserved residential structure is now the Nanjing Folk Museum. The mansion is also called "99 rooms and a half" to signify the vastness of this former home of a wealthy local.

Visitors can stroll along old alleys such as Ping Shi Jie, Ling Zhuang Xiang and Diao Yu Tai, where they'll find authentic Chinese snacks and unique architecture aplenty.

Zhonghua Gate, Zhonghua South Road, Qinhuai Nanjing; open daily 8:30 a.m.-8:30 p.m.; CNY 34 ($5.50)

Gan's Grand Courtyard, 15 Nanguting, South of Zhonghua Road, Nanjing; open daily 9 a.m.-4:30 p.m.; CNY 20

Xuanwu Lake

In the central area of the city, Xuanwu Lake provides a place for locals to escape the summer heat. It's also a major meeting place for locals in the evening.

Different Nanjingers will organize casual walking groups to circle the 444-hectare park in the evening.

Concerts and dance gatherings are often held in the park.

CNN Travel's series often carries sponsorship originating from the countries and regions we profile. However, CNN retains full editorial control over all of its reports. Read the policy.

Monday, September 2, 2013

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