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- Insider Guide: Best of Dublin
- 50 reasons Tokyo is the world's greatest city
- World’s most stomach-friendly 24-hour restaurants
| Posted: 09 Sep 2013 03:10 AM PDT It's a UNESCO City of Literature and if they granted City of Drinking status, Dublin would be one of those, too. But that's just scratching the bar top …  Pubs. That's what you likely know about Dublin, and Dublin's got 'em. There are approximately a thousand pubs in the Irish capital, or one for every thousand Dubliners. James Joyce once said it would make a great puzzle trying to cross the city without passing a pub. So you know you're gonna have your Fair City's share of Guinness while you're here, but we want to make sure you're doing it in a proper joint. We also want you to see the rest of Dublin, because whether you know it or not, this city is among the oldest and most culturally endowed in the world -- just don't tell Dubliners that. The museums are free, the literary legacy rich and the city park (Phoenix, 707 hectares) the largest in Europe -- not that your odds of a sunny day to see it are very good. Just a few rudimentary Dublin rules to follow: 1. If someone buys you a drink, buy them one back. 2. Ditch the windbreaker and pack a brolly (umbrella). 3. Don't rely on Dublin Bus drivers for ... anything. 4. And, for pity's sake, let that Guinness settle first! With the basics covered, we present the best of Dublin shops, restaurants, attractions and, yes, pubs in which to put these essential rules into practice.
HotelsLuxuryThe Westbury
This traditional hotel enjoys an enviable location just off Dublin's main shopping thoroughfare, Grafton Street. Recent renovations have given new life to The Westbury's classic atmosphere: flourishes of modern decor take on an Asian-meets-Western aesthetic with cool, rich tones. Each of The Westbury's 205 rooms includes custom-designed furniture, Lissadell bedding, Sealy mattresses and Aromatherapy Associates toiletries, as well as iPod docks and Nespresso machines. Though the onsite Marble Bar is more modern than its name suggests, the menu has a nice selection of bubbly and Irish whiskeys. The Westbury is one of the few places in Dublin where one can still partake of traditional afternoon tea. The Westbury: Grafton St., Dublin, 2; +353 1 679 1122; from €250 ($300) a night
Choice digs of the Obamas during their 2011 visit to Ireland (they booked the entire hotel), the Merrion is all class, kitted out in gleaming white marble and gorgeous restored Georgian details. The hotel's 123 guestrooms are light and airy, fitted to an impeccable standard with period furnishings and Irish fabrics in neutral tones. Standard rooms and the penthouse are situated in the Garden Wing and boast the usual conveniences, along with luxury touches like Italian marble bathtubs and plush bathrobes. The onsite Tethra Spa has an infinity pool, steam room and menu of treatments, while a suite of bars and drawing rooms offer luxuriant spaces in which to unwind over tea or a pint of the Black Stuff. The Merrion: Upper Merrion St., Dublin 2; +353 1 603 0700; from €199 ($262)
The Dylan Dublin's hippest boutique hotel and favorite haunt of pop stars and social media gurus, the Dylan is all swank with imaginative, Asian-inspired decor that strays from minimalism with tasteful bursts of rich color and detailing -- think creative headboards, elaborate mirrors and fresh orchids. A true boutique hotel, the Dylan has only 44 rooms, each of which is kitted out with "seventh heaven" foam beds, Mark Buxton toiletries and iPods pre-loaded with a walking tour of Dublin. Downstairs, you're treated to a chic restaurant with a menu of fresh Irish ingredients, as well as a cocktail bar with lovely terrace. The Dylan: Eastmoreland Pl., Dublin 4; +353 1 660 3005; from €197 ($259)
Mid-rangeThe Clarence
With 49 rooms -- many of which overlook the River Liffey -- The Clarence qualifies for boutique status, but without all of the bombast that characterizes many designer hotels. Colors are muted and classic, and furnishings are hand-crafted by Irish artisans. The Clarence is also known for its best of Dublin Octagon Bar and accompanying octagonal glass dome, which is where its rock star owners first fell in love with the hotel and decided to buy it. Well-founded rumors suggest they can often be seen drinking here when in Dublin. The Clarence: 6-8 Wellington Quay, Dublin 2; +353 1 407 0800; from €160 ($211) a night
BudgetHarding Hotel
The Harding exemplifies the Irish term "cheap and cheerful." Rooms are basic and smallish, but well maintained, with modern furnishings and soft mattresses. Rooms are also outfitted with free Wi-Fi. The downstairs bar, Darkey Kelley's, is an old school Dublin pub. The Harding's onsite restaurant, Copper Alley Bistro, serves a simple menu of Irish favorites. Harding Hotel: Copper Alley, Fishamble St., Dublin 2; +353 1 679 6500; from €99 ($130) a night DiningChapter One Michelin-starred Chapter One is perhaps Dublin's most consistently well-rated upmarket restaurant. Boasting a mile-long list of accolades and visited by the likes of traveling chef Anthony Bourdain, Chapter One offers new takes on Irish ingredients, but make no mistake, this is not "nouveau Irish cooking," rather something else entirely wonderful. A four-course evening dinner menu may offer intrigues like charcoal-grilled monkfish with razor clams, Achill Island black face lamb or smoked langoustine and bacon stuffed pig's tail. A special kitchen table tasting menu is offered for groups who want an inside peek at the helm, and the wine list is truly vintage -- all come with a hefty, but worthwhile, price tag. Chapter One: 18-19 Parnell Sq., Dublin 1; +353 1 873 2266; expensive
Hugo's
Firmly rooted in French and European cuisine, Hugo's chef Didier Rhodes draws on fresh and artisanal Irish ingredients to create combinations for the restaurant's ever-changing menu. Emphasis is placed on hearty Irish meats and plenty of seafood -- the local shellfish and prawns are excellent -- paired with inventively prepared seasonal vegetables. Hugo's French bistro-like blue exterior, complete with twinkling candles, is almost as charming as the menu. With some 30 varieties available by the glass, the wine list leaves few wanting. Hugo's: 6 Merrion Row, Dublin 1; +353 1 676 5955; expensive
The Pig's Ear
Seasonal Irish ingredients are cooked inventively, but approachably. The restaurant's location in an Georgian building overlooking Trinity College doesn't hurt -- creaky wooden floors, high ceilings and big windows lend to the Pig's Ear's a country-chic vibe. The whiskey and citrus-cured salmon is a particular delight, as is the puntastic "tongue 'n' cheek" Guinness pie. The Pig's Ear: 4 Nassau St., Dublin 2; +353 1 670 3865; moderate
Dunne & Crescenzi
Originally a shop, the business grew steadily into the full-fledged restaurant and wine bar it is now. While it may be a power-lunch destination for local politicians and media types from the government offices across the street, jeans-clad tourists are equally welcome to sit at the simple brown tables and enjoy Dunne & Crescenzi's best of Dublin cheese plates, bruschetta selection and fresh mozzarella bar. Dunne & Crescenzi: 14-16 S. Frederick St., Dublin 2; +353 1 675 9892; moderate-expensive
Epicurean Food Hall
Taking the idea of "food court" to a different level, the Epicurean Food Hall is tightly packed with different international vendors peddling everything from artisanal Irish sandwiches to Turkish food and quick pastas. The tacos at aptly named Taco Taco are among the most authentic Mexican on offer in Dublin. Plenty of seating is available in the center of the hall and the small-price-for-heaping-portion philosophy here represents great value for lunch on a budget. Epicurean Food Hall: 1 Lower Liffey St., Dublin 1; +353 1 283 6077; budget
Temple Bar Food Market
But as times have changed, so has the food landscape of the city, especially the bohemian Temple Bar district, which now hosts a food market each Saturday. More than a farmers' market, this is a place to come and eat, to grab some seriously fresh Irish cheese, pesto and a loaf of bread baked that morning and sit along the Liffey for a picnic. Seafood lovers will also want to sit down for a bucket of oysters and glass of wine at St. Martin Shellfish; John Mac gets his oysters from the Atlantic each Friday and they're in your stomach by Saturday morning. Temple Bar Food Market: Meeting House Sq., Essex Street, Temple Bar, Dublin 2; +353 1 677 2255; budget NightlifeThe Black Door Brand new on Dublin's nightlife scene, the Black Door is so exclusive most Dubliners would have a hard time finding it. The swanky, split-level cocktail cavern-cum-club-cum-piano bar is hidden behind an unmarked (surprise!) black door on Harcourt Street. Inside, pretty young things with far too much money flit about holding glasses of bubbly and vintage scotch, but the staff won't scoff at regular folk (though you might have trouble getting by the doorman if you're wearing ratty jeans). The party gets going and the volume turns up as the night goes on, and on it goes -- well into the wee hours. If you're looking for a place to sit and converse, this isn't it, but for night-owl mingling and meeting (and possible celeb-spotting), it's a sure bet. The Black Door: 58 Harcourt St., Dublin 2; +353 1 476 4606; expensive
John Kavanagh (aka Gravediggers)
Operated by the namesake family that established it in 1833, "Gravediggers" sits beside the sweeping Glasnevin Cemetery. It earned its nickname by purportedly serving lunchtime pints to Glasnevin's gravediggers through a special window onto the graveyard. John Kavanagh is old and wooden and about the only thing they pour here is Guinness. And it's good. In recent years, the owner has begun serving top-notch Irish-Italian fare in an adjoining room, which has drawn such foodie celebs as Anthony Bourdain. You have to take a bus and walk up an all-but-invisible alleyway to reach Gravediggers, but there's something unabashedly wonderful about the place that keeps regulars coming back for lifetimes. Gravediggers: 1 Prospect Sq., Glasnevin, Dublin 9; +353 1 830 7978; budget
Mulligan's
The wood floors are permanently damp from generations of beer slosh, the pew seating is uncomfortable and the ceilings are lower than men of average height might prefer, but it all adds to Mulligan's ambiance. It has been said many times that Mulligan's pours the best Guinness in Dublin. If you drink only one pint of the good stuff in Dublin, Mulligan's is the place to do it. Mulligan's: 8 Poolbeg St., Dublin 2; +353 1 677 5582; budget
Fallon & Byrne Wine Cellar This upmarket grocer doubles as one of Dublin's finest wine bars. Follow the (mostly) unmarked stairwell down and find yourself in a cozy, candle-lit wine cellar replete with high, dark wood tables and deep glasses. Yes, this is a wine shop and you're welcome to purchase and take away, but feel free to browse the wine racks that line the walls, choose a bottle of something interesting, and the staff will open it for you (corkage varies depending on the night but is always reasonable). There's also a food menu prepared by chefs from the gourmet restaurant on the top floor (worth a stop, as well) that claims to be light bites, but is really substantial enough to make an entire meal of sharers or nibbles. Fallon & Byrne Wine Cellar: 11-17 Exchequer St., Dublin 2; +353 1 472 1012; moderate/expensive
The Black Sheep
Styled on a modern British gastropub, the vibe is shabby chic, complete with mismatched tables and chairs, board games and a vaguely homey ambiance -- yet still bright, owing to its multi-windowed corner location. On tap are several Galway Bay Brewery ales and other heretofore rare-in-Dublin Irish craft beers, which come and go according to what's available. The Black Sheep also offers a menu of gastropub fare, though the focus here remains on the brews. The Black Sheep: 61 Capel St., Dublin 1; +353 1 873 0013; moderate
Bowe's
Just far enough off the beaten path to be nigh invisible to visitors, yet only two minutes' walk from the Temple Bar area, Bowe's is small and atmospheric, with deep, worn wood throughout and stained glass dividers that suggest a different era. With little in the way of seating, Bowe's is largely a standing-room affair, but if you can suffer that, these are among the best pints of Guinness and friendliest crowds in the city. Bowe's: 31 Fleet St., Dublin 2; +353 1 671 4038; moderate
The Long Hall
In addition to perfectly poured Guinness and the usual suspects of international lager, The Long Hall is known for serving potent gin and tonics. Barmen at this best of Dublin pub still wear white shirts and black ties, a sign that this is truly a historic establishment. If there was any question, one peek inside at the filigreed mirrors and carved wooden snugs (enclosed booths) assuages any doubts about the Long Hall's historical antecedents -- and, for that matter, its beauty. The Long Hall: 51 S. Great George's St., Dublin 2; +353 1 475 1590; moderate
Traditional Music Pubs
While the popularity of daily trad may have waned in modern decades, there are still numerous pubs around Dublin where traditional Irish music lives on, much as it has for centuries. The mark of a good trad session is one that is unplugged, with musicians seated around a regular pub table, knocking into one another with their fiddles and accordions and drinking far, far too many pints. Though plenty of mucky, plastic music calling itself trad is to be found in the more obvious tourist pubs, here are a few where the real thing is still treasured: Cobblestone: 77 North King St., Smithfield Square, Dublin 7; +353 1 872 1799; budget O'Donoghue's: 15 Merrion Row, Dublin 2; +353 1 660 7194; moderate Grace's: 2 Rathgar Rd., Dublin 6; +353 1 497 4345; budget The Stag's Head: 1 Dame Ct., Dublin 2; +353 1 679 3687; moderate The Brazen Head: 20 Bridge St. Lower, Dublin 8; +353 1 677 9549; moderate ShoppingGrafton Street
Stretching for several "blocks" -- if Dublin had such things -- Grafton Street is the Irish equivalent of a British high street, boasting many international and local stores and the famed Irish department store Brown Thomas, in case you've a hankering for Chanel or Gucci. Though often incredibly crowded with shoppers, especially on a Saturday, Grafton Street is a one-stop affair for clothes hounds and musos alike. At the south end, the Stephen's Green Shopping Centre is a beautiful wrought iron Victorian shopping arcade home to even more well-known brands. Grafton Street: Dublin 2; moderate/expensive
Brown Thomas The beacon of haute shopping in Ireland, Brown Thomas is a swanky department store that stocks everything from Marc Jacobs handbags to designer kitchenware. The flagship location on Dublin's Grafton Street is often full to the brim, but the atmosphere never strays to tawdry, and in addition to a Nespresso counter, the top floor boasts a cafe and spanking new restaurant for weary shoppers to nibble (or tipple). Beyond the global haute couture offerings like Gucci and Prada, Brown Thomas stocks Irish designers like JW Anderson, Orla Kiely and Louise Kennedy, so if you're in the market for something slightly more special to take away from your trip, here's the place to find it. Brown Thomas: 88-95 Grafton St., Dublin 2; +353 1 605 6666; expensive
Avoca
The company was formed out of an old Wicklow-based woolen mill, but today has updated its sensibilities to appeal to women of a certain aesthetic; the sort of "ladies who lunch" who can't resist picking up a new hand-woven throw after a wine-soaked midday snack at Avoca's wholesome café. Avoca is a great alternative to the rather tawdry Irish gift shops, especially when seeking take-homes for the gal or gals in your life. Avoca: 11-13 Suffolk St., Dublin 2; +353 1 677 4215; moderate
The Gutter Bookshop
Although decidedly neater, tidier and cuter than you'd expect a boho bookshop to be, the Gutter is stocked with a hearty selection of books (including, naturally, a wonderful section by Irish authors), as well as staff who've actually read them. The Gutter also offers a regular lineup of activities, including reading groups, book launches and quirkier cultural to-dos, such as its Valentine's Day "book speed dating" event, designed to introduce customers to their perfect reads. The Gutter: Cow's Ln., Temple Bar, Dublin 8; +353 1 679 9206; budget
Celtic Note
As the name suggests, the shop concentrates on Irish and Celtic music, but you'll also find a mix of international fare, including jazz, bluegrass, classical and folk, as well as one of the largest ranges of Irish rock and pop in the country. The shop also stocks Irish-interest DVDs and music-related books, and on any given day, you could turn up to find a big name artist giving an in-store performance. Celtic Note: 14-15 Nassau St., Dublin 2; +353 1 670 4157; moderate
George's Street Arcade
This long, airy shopping arcade was constructed of iconic red brick and wrought iron and now houses a series of shops in the permanent retail spaces along each side, as well as more temporary stalls down the middle, selling records, vintage clothing and knickknacks. George's Street is worth a stop as much for its architectural beauty as for the fun of digging through the vendors' goodies, and Simon's Coffee Shop at the west end is a perennial favorite for unemployed locals to hobnob or laze over The Irish Times. George's Street Arcade: S. Great George's St., Dublin 2; budget
AttractionsNational Gallery
The collection's 15,000 Irish and European works date from the 13th to mid-20th centuries and include paintings, prints and national portraits. Particularly prized is the Yeats Collection, comprising works and other materials related to Irish painter Jack B Yeats, brother of poet and playwright WB Yeats. National Gallery: Merrion Square West, Dublin 2; +353 1 661 5133; free
Old Jameson Distillery
Instead of a do-it-yourself walkabout, this guided tour opens with a (thankfully) short, informative film and is conducted by guides who really know their stuff. The tour covers the basics of whiskey distilling, but also gives you a foundation in what distinguishes Jameson from other whiskeys and whiskies, and culminates with a free tasting. Tip: stand near the front of the group and act quickly when the guide asks for volunteers -- you'll be treated to an extended tasting at the end. Old Jameson Distillery: Bow St., Smithfield, Dublin 7; +353 1 807 2355; moderate
Ha'penny Bridge
The Ha'penny Bridge is so named for the toll of one halfpenny originally charged to cross it. When it was built in 1816, the Ha'penny Bridge was the first iron bridge across the Liffey. Prior to its construction, most pedestrians had to ferry across the river.
Parks and Gardens
And when the sun comes out, Dubliners will be skipping work and donning their once-a-year shorts in these public (read, free) green spaces: St. Stephen's Green: South end of Grafton Street, Dublin 2 Merrion Square Park: Merrion Square, Dublin 2; +353 1 222 5278 Phoenix Park: Parkgate St., Dublin 8, +353 1 820 5800 National Botanic Gardens: Botanic Rd., Glasnevin, Dublin 9; +353 1 804 0300 Iveagh Gardens: Clonmel St., Dublin 2; +353 1 475 7816
Literary DublinTrinity College Library
Admission includes a visit to the Book of Kells, an ornate manuscript of the Gospels, which Celtic monks decorated by hand in the ninth century. Trinity College Library: Trinity College, College Green; Dublin 2; +1 353 896 1127; €9
Dublin Writers Museum
The Dublin Writers Museum covers three centuries of Irish literature, with exhibitions showcasing the life, works, materials and personal items of some of the country's literary icons, from WB Yeats to Frank McCourt. Dublin Writers Museum: 18 Parnell Sq., Dublin 1; +353 1 872 2077; €7.50;
Chester Beatty Library
The library's exhibitions build on the personal collection of one Alfred Chester Beatty -- who was born in the United States and was later made an honorary Irish citizen -- and who traveled the world collecting from bazaars and markets. Chester Beatty Library: Dublin Castle, Dublin 2; +1 353 407 0750; free
Literary Pubs
Some of Ireland's most acclaimed writers, from James Joyce to Brendan Behan, have celebrated Dublin's pubs by either immortalizing them in prose or downing pints by the dozen within them. These are a few of the best that remain wonderful pubs even outside their literary connections: Palace Bar: 21 Fleet St., Dublin 2; +353 1 671 7388; expensive Davy Byrne's, 21 Duke St., Dublin 2; +353 1 677 5217 McDaid's, 3 Harry St., Dublin 2; +353 1 679 4395; expensive Toners: 139 Lower Baggot St., Dublin 2; +353 1 676 3090; moderate
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| 50 reasons Tokyo is the world's greatest city Posted: 08 Sep 2013 09:55 AM PDT With the 2020 Olympics locked up, the city from the future just got even cooler  Huge celebrations broke out across Tokyo over the weekend with news that the iconic city was chosen by the International Olympic Committee (IOC) to host the 2020 Summer Games. Not convinced they made the right choice? These 50 reasons Tokyo is the world's best city might sway your vote. 1. The world's most sophisticated railwaysWith 13 subway lines and more than 100 surface routes run by Japan Railways and other private companies, Tokyo's railway system seems like it was designed to win world records. It's rare to find a location in the metropolitan area that can't be reached with a train ride and a short walk. More on CNN: 16 hours on a train, from Tokyo to Sapporo 2. The Emperor will see you nowVisit the Imperial Palace on December 23 or January 2, and you'll see something impressive: its owner. Emperor Akihito and family make a twice-yearly public appearance at the Inner Palace grounds for the monarch's birthday and a New Year's greeting. If you're tall enough, you'll be able to glimpse the man-god himself amid a sea of Rising Sun flag-wavers. 3. Tongue-gasmic food pornYou could spend hours drooling over the elaborate pastries and picture-perfect sushi rolls at department store Isetan's super-stylish depachika, a massive basement food court . Square watermelons and ¥50,000 matsutake mushrooms are displayed with gallery-like reverence. Other highlights: eat-in counters run by some of Tokyo's snazziest restaurants and free samples of food and booze on weekends. Check out the depachika at Isetan, Mitsukoshi, Takashimaya and Matsuya. 4. Street crossings are like a battle scene from "Braveheart"The scramble street crossing outside of Shibuya Station is easily the world's busiest, with a thousand people running into the middle of the street, weaving together in a huge organic mass. The scramble perfectly summarizes the essence of Tokyo's true tourist landmarks: not old buildings, but lots and lots people coming together in celebration of culture. See the action outside the Hachiko exit of Shibuya Station. 5. Youth fashion stores by the hundredsThere are countless independent fashion boutiques in the Harajuku area -- all dedicated to generally insane forms of youth fashion. If you count adjacent Shibuya, Omotesando and Aoyama into the region, you have the world's largest fashion district: featuring basically every single major designer brand in the world. 6. Sky-high one-upmanship
When officials in Tokyo learned that the new Guangzhou TV & Sightseeing Tower in China would be 610 meters tall -- the same height that was planned for Tokyo Skytree, then under construction -- they did what any rational body would do: they added 24 meters to the top of Skytree to preserve its claim as the world's tallest tower. Now complete and open for business, the Guinness-certified structure features shops, restaurants and an observation deck that lets you see almost all the way to Guangzhou. More on CNN: Tokyo's Skytree and 12 other scary-awesome viewing platforms 7. You can eat dirtAt Ne Quittez Pas, in Tokyo's Gotanda neighborhood, every dish is made with a generous helping of dirt. Not normal, backyard variety dirt. This is special nutrient-rich soil. The unique tasting menu is the creation of Toshio Tanabe, a former gymnast and boxer turned culinary inventor. Whether diners dig into the dirt or not, it does take the idea of organic to a new level. Ne Quittez Pas, 3-15-19 Higashigotanda. Shinagawa-ku, Tokyo More on CNN: Tokyo restaurant dishes up the dirt 8. More Michelin stars than anywhere elseWhen France's lauded Michelin Red Guide announced it would release a Tokyo edition -- the first one to cover an Asian city -- many scoffed at what they perceived to be a mere marketing ploy. But they awarded the area's restaurants a total of 375 stars in the "Tokyo Yokohama Shonan 2013" edition of the guide. It's only fair; Tokyo sports 160,000 known eateries, more than 10 times the number in Paris. There are a few three-star standouts in the Tokyo Guide -- Kojyu in Ginza, serving delicate traditional Japanese cuisine; Joël Robuchon in Ebisu, the Tokyo stronghold of the famed celebrity chef; and Quintessence in Shirokane-dai, whose young French-trained chef achieved recognition in the Japanese culinary hierarchy, thanks to his inclusion in the Guide. More than anything, though, Michelin has proven something that most Tokyoites already know: this city is the gastronomic capital of the world. 9. The electronics stores are like theme parksThe Japanese have taken their love of the latest electronic gadgets and modern appliances and zapped it with Yodobashi Akiba, the largest electronics store in a section of Tokyo known for being the center of gadget, video game and anime culture in the city. Going into any electronics store in Akihabara is like stepping into a wonderland of flashing lights and monstrous screens, but Yodobashi ups the ante by offering six massive floors of televisions, stereos, appliances and game consoles, with three more floors dedicated to restaurants, juice bars, bookstores and music shops. Yodobashi Akiba, 1-1 Kanda-hanaoka-cho, Chiyoda-ku, +81 (0)3 5209 1010 10. You can commute to the mountains
When concrete Tokyo gets to be too much, you can head out to the wonderful Mount Takao in West Tokyo. Accessible by a single train from Shinjuku, the mountain is particularly famous for its easy hike to the top, stunning autumn foliage and special soba-noodle culture. To access Takao: Take the Keio line to Takao-san-guchi Station. Takes a little less than one hour. 11. Earth's biggest fish market is in its best sushi neighborhoodGiven Japan's penchant for seafood, it's not surprising the world's largest fish market (and one of the largest wholesale markets, period) is located in Tokyo. Handling more than 2,000 tons of seafood each day, Tsukiji-shijo ("market") is a haven for fisherman, auctioneers and buyers for Tokyo's best restaurants. As an added bonus, here the freshest sushi and most delectable grilled fish lunches can be had at reasonable prices -- assuming one can stand the mad rush of patrons. By the time the Olympics rolls around, however, Tsukji will be a memory. A bigger replacement is now in the works, due to open in 2014. More on CNN: Iconic fish market to close, replacement design unveiled 12. Even the serious museums are weirdEdo-Tokyo Museum is the best place to relive the old traditional style of life in Tokyo, when it was called Edo in the 15th to 19th centuries. The building exterior, however, looks like a giant space cruiser on a "Buck Rogers" back lot, propped up on stilts. This is perhaps an attempt to fuse past, present and future Tokyo into one space. Edo-Tokyo Museum, 1-4-1 Yokoami, Sumida-ku, +81 (0)3 3626 9974 13. Take me out to the ball game (again and again ...)How baseball-obsessed is Tokyo? It's one of only three cities in the world -- Chicago and Seoul are the others -- with two big-league stadiums in its central downtown area. The Yomiuri Giants, who play their home games at Tokyo Dome, are loved and detested in equal measure (think New York Yankees), while the more-approachable Yakult Swallows do their thing down the road in cozy Jingu Stadium. 14. You'll never want for expensive antique robot toysEight floors of heaven for anime fans, Mandarake Complex represents the flagship of the Mandarake chain of vintage anime ephemera. The seventh and eighth floors are like a museum of Japanese toy history -- only everything is for sale. Although their prices are higher than you'll find in other shops and bargaining is out of the question, you would be hard pressed to beat the selection. Mandarake Complex, Sotokanda 3-11-12, Chiyoda-ku, +81 (0)3 3252 7007, noon-8 p.m. 15. The K-Pop boom is old news
That's because anything worthwhile coming out of the K-Pop boom washes up in Tokyo's Koreatown first. This enclave of souvenir shops, barbecue eateries and bars stretches over several blocks near the bustling mini-city of Shinjuku. 16. The public parks are as pretentious as it getsMeticulously constructed according to the good Dr. Enryo Inoue's arcane personal tastes, Tetsugakudo's numerous small buildings are all dedicated to renowned philosophers. Outdoor features include a supposedly haunted tree and a "Time-Space Clearing" that is -- and we quote -- "intended to represent the philosophical dimension." It's a big patch of dirt. Tetsugakudo, Matsugaoka 1-34-28, Nakano-ku, +81 (0)3 3951 2515, 9 a.m.-9 p.m., closed first Thursday of every month 17. It's the best place to shop if you're over 60Variously referred to as the "Granny Ginza" and "Harajuku for Little Old Ladies," the Sugamo Jizo Dori Shotengai shopping street has aged along with the local residents. Looking for the latest fashions circa 1962? You've found the right place. Black-and-white stills of long-forgotten movie stars? Check. It's also filled with stores that sell traditional sweets and trinkets, most of them on the cheap side. Walking distance from JR Sugamo Station. 18. You can blow an entire year's salary on a round of drinksGone are the Bubble-era days of gold-leaf-wrapped sushi, but that profligate spirit lives on in the "Diamonds are Forever" martini at the Ritz-Carlton: chilled Grey Goose vodka with a lime twist, poured over a one-carat diamond. A good martini is hard to improve upon, but everything's better with a little sparkle. Cost: ¥1,800,000 (about $18,000) Ritz-Carlton, 45/F, 9-7-1 Akasaka, Minato-ku, +81 (0)3 3423 8000 19. Highway rest stops are destinationsRest areas like Umi-hotaru almost make up for the ridiculous tolls and endless traffic jams of Japan's highways. Umi-hotaru (the "sea firefly") is a giant, island-like concrete construct floating smack in the middle of Tokyo Bay at the crossover point between the Aqua-Line bridge and tunnel. It offers a number of restaurants and shops for those who need to relax before braving the remaining drive. 20. Personal service is borderline stalky
From humble grocery stores to fancy boutiques, Tokyo's standard of service is remarkably high. Unsurprisingly, the city's top-class restaurants strive for excellence, and Aronia de Takazawa delivers service with a personal touch. Prior to your visit, you'll receive a number of charming, chatty emails from Akiko Takazawa, the chef's wife. During dinner, Mrs. Takazawa will take you step-by-step through the chef's high-tech creations and make you feel as smart and sophisticated as the food. Aronia de Takazawa, Sanyo Akasaka Building, 2/F, 3-5-2 Akasaka, Minato-ku, +81 (0)3 3505 5052 21. Noodles you can dream aboutThere are more noodle shops in Tokyo than any other city in the world. If we had to pick a favorite, it'd be Menya Goto, a tiny counter stall that serves flavorful bowls of ramen to the slurping masses lined up out the door. Menya Goto, 3-33-7 Nishi-Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku, +81 (0)3 3986 9115 22. You can spend every waking hour surrounded by comicsAt a manga-kissa, or "comics café," a few hundred yen per hour nets you a tiny booth with a reclining chair, Internet-enabled PC, an endless supply of all-you-can-read comic books and bottomless soft drink refills. Ostensibly created for manga freaks, these miniscule rent-a-chairs are fast becoming popular for another reason: they offer young couples and salarymen alike a super-cheap place to kill time and catch some Zs. The extensive Manboo! franchise (despite a name and logo that border on copyright infringement) is the most recognizable manga-kissa, and its flagship storefront in Kabuki-cho is perfect for hostess-club Lotharios who've missed the last train home. Manboo! Comic Cafe Shinjuku, 1-17-7 Kabuki-cho, Shinjuku-ku, +81 (0)3 5287 4688 23. Bats you don't have to be afraid ofTokyo calls forth an image of the glimmering city of the future, yet along the Kanda River -- flowing from Inokashira Park in Kichijoji to the Sumida River -- we humans have to share Tokyo with another busy inhabitant: bats. Lots of 'em. Every evening, you can see them storming the skies on any pleasant stroll along the river, but since they don't attack people, they're considered part of the ambience. 24. You can ride the world's shortest escalator 8,000 times a dayKawasaki isn't officially Tokyo, but we'd like to claim the world's shortest escalator -- in Kawasaki More's shopping center-- as part of our urban experience. We can't explain why an escalator this tiny exists, but you don't hear us, or Guinness, complaining. You can see it here. Kawasaki More's, Motomachi 7, Kawasaki-ekimae, Kawasaki-shi, Kanagawa-ken, +81 (0)44 211 1131 25. The cuddliest cafés
Then be heartbroken when you leave. Nekorobi, Tact T-O Building 3, 1-28-1 Higashi-Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku; +81 (0)3 6228 0646 26. Cyberpunk infrastructureWho but the Japanese would think to connect the major wards and neighborhoods of their capital with an "expressway" perched several stories above ground that weaves in between office buildings and national landmarks? The Shuto-ko -- or Metropolitan Area Expressway -- isn't only an engineering marvel but also a logistical nightmare, with countless routes interconnected, above- and below-ground entrances and exits, and high-speed curves that would make the Nürburgring blush. 27. It's mod tailoring's last standLondon boasts the high-end suiting of Savile Row, while Bangkok is famous for its ultra-cheap bespoke factories. Tokyo's Yofuku no Namiki tailor may be the world's last great mod tailor -- making slim suits for cool youngsters. A favorite of rock bands, punks and rebels, Namiki makes suits in every possible historical style (zoot suits, Seventies wide lapels, you name it) starting at the low price of ¥39,900 ($400). Yofuku no Namiki, Umegaoka Aiwa Mansion 105, Matsubara 6-4-5, Setagaya-ku; +81 (0) 3 3325 9494 28. The most absurdly priced retail establishments on one blockChanel, Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Coach, Harry Winston -- and many more -- as far as the eye can see, each a dedicated storefront encased in a building of impeccable modern architectural design. Ginza is where to go to see and be seen and to spend more money than most salarymen ever dream of on fashion, handbags and jewelry. Ginza used to be pithily described as Tokyo's 5th Avenue, but nowadays it's more accurate to call 5th Avenue New York's Ginza. 29. Religious experiences for cat loversThe beautiful Gotokuji Buddhist temple is believed to be the birthplace of Japan's ubiquitous beckoning cat statues. As you might expect, its display of the lucky ceramic felines, tucked tastefully behind a side building, is second to none. Gotokuji Temple, Gotokuji 2-24-7, Setagaya-ku 30. No need to leave the airport
But that's only half the story. Thanks to the terminal's Edo-Koji marketplace -- a warren of history-themed restaurants and souvenir shops -- even jet-setters on a layover can soak up some old-school Japanese culture. 31. Porn shops are like video games with increasing levels of freakinessLike entering the 36 Chambers of Shaolin, every flight up the Ali Baba Akihabara mini-skyscraper of pornography is another level of weirdness. As with many Japanese porn shops, the first floor sells a halfhearted selection of mainstream Hollywood and Japanese films for a thin veneer of respectability. Take the stairs one flight up and the real adventure begins, with fetishes organized by floor. Not for the prudish. Ali Baba Akihabara, 3/F, 1-18 Kanda-Sakumacho, Chiyoda-ku; +81 (0)3 5289 0242 32. Water is just an excuse for the bridgesConnecting the Shibaura area with the futuristic Odaiba island, the Rainbow Bridge is one of the most recognizable landmarks in the city. With its pale shining towers and multicolored night lighting, the bridge provides a knockout frame through which to view the city's skyline from a restaurant terrace in Odaiba. 33. Taste the teeniest, tiniest haute cuisineIn a city known for its diminutive dining spots, the seven-seat Tapas Molecular Bar is one of the smallest. But its menu of fanciful concoctions, like cucumber "caviar," lime salt "foam" and chocolate "pumice" makes it worth the squeeze. Reservations can be made for either 6 p.m. or 8:30 p.m. (no exceptions). Tardiness is severely frowned upon. Tapas Molecular Bar, Mandarin Oriental Tokyo 38F, 2-1-1 Nihonbashi Muromachi, Chuo-ku; +81 (0)3 3270 8188 34. Behold the least impressive statue of a giant monsterStanding in the shadow of the film company that unleashed Godzilla on the world, this bronze effigy of the giant creature in Hibiya park towers a whopping ... half-meter high. We suppose a life-sized 70-meter version would have been prohibitive, but half a meter? At least the pedestal raises it above eye level. 35. Apartments are like MC Escher drawingsNo city on earth is as novel in its approach to housing. Exhibit A: the rainbow-colored, multi-shaped Reversible Destiny Lofts apartment complex. Located in an otherwise boring part of the Mitaka suburbs, the complex looks like a LSD vision of a giant McDonald's jungle gym. Architects Arakawa & Gins intentionally built the lofts with uneven floors and other unorthodoxy to constantly challenge the minds of Japan's elderly. Reversible Destiny Lofts, 2-2-8 Osawa, Mitaka-Shi; +81 (0)422 26 4966 36. Its red-light district is the least dangerous
Kabukicho is full of sketchy hostess clubs, airplane-themed "showtime cabarets" and "pink salons" (don't ask), but also ... college students hanging out with acoustic guitars? Yes, the Shinjuku red-light district isn't "classy," but it's still Tokyo. So feel free to wander through it any time of the day, maybe picking up a cone of Häagen-Dazs on the way. 37. You have to work for high-end tempuraIt might take a while to find Motoyoshi among the backstreets of Minami-Aoyama, but its GPS-confounding location is part of the fun. The prize for actually arriving is perfectly crisp tempura. The chef is as picky about his ingredients -- succulent scallops and tender asparagus in summer, hearty red carrots from Kyoto in winter -- as he is about his technique. Motoyoshi, 3-2-4 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku; +81 (0)3 3401 0722 38. It's home to the world's best fashion chainsJapanese select shops -- such as Beams, United Arrows, Ships and Tomorrowland -- grew to fame thanks to an expert curating of the world's best indie fashion brands. These days, however, their real offering is high-quality Japanese-made clothing in the latest styles -- at reasonable prices. Each company now also has a wide range of stores catering toward each age bracket and gender, so Beams F is for the suited corporate man while nearby Beams Boy is for dainty preps and stylish "mountain girls." 39. The most bars per square-meterBar hopping takes on a new dimension in Golden Gai: one only needs to step outside to stumble into another bar. Golden Gai packs more than 200 tiny watering holes -- some so small they seat a scant five -- in half the size of a Costco. Less dense, but equally tight, are the bars in Omoide Yokocho near Shinjuku station and Nonbei Yokocho, the colorfully named "Drunkard's Alley," in Shibuya. 40. Cocktails are maniacally freshIn cocktail-crazy Tokyo, bartenders approach their subject with the artistry and focus of Michelin-starred chefs. The mixologists at Aoyama's swanky Bar Rage source top-quality, fresh ingredients from around the country for their seasonal drinks. They hunt down the tastiest passion fruits from Okinawa, or the sweetest kumquats from Miyazaki to give classic cocktails a Japanese twist. Bar Rage, 3/F Aoyama Jin & IT Building, 7-13-13 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku; +81 (0)3 5467 3977 41. The world's best serviceSure, at some stores around the world, the staff are experts in their field, hoping to wait on your every wish and command. Japanese department stores such as Mitsukoshi and Isetan have that, of course, but they add a few other perks: an army of uniformed women running automated elevators and bowing greeters at the door. The time-consuming, multi-stage gift wrapping is also unparalleled, perhaps justifying the premium prices. 42. You'll never see a more expansive sake listIn terms of sheer variety, Tokyo is the best place in the world to try sake, and it's likely that you'll be able to find most of it at Kuri in Ginza. The sake menu is a tome that lists more than 100 varieties. After the third cup, you might be brave enough to try the hoya no shiokara (fermented sea pineapple guts), which isn't half as bad as it sounds. Kuri, Tony Bldg., 2/F, 6-4-15 Ginza, Chuo-ku; +81 (0)3 3573 8033 43. Onsen with the best feng shuiStrictly built according to the principles of feng shui, Yukari is a beautifully appointed hot spring in Tokyo's western suburbs. The baths are marked with the cardinal directions for proper orientation during soaking. Jindaiji Onsen Yukari, +81 (0)42 499 7777, 10 a.m.-10 p.m., closed first Wednesday of every month 44. Monumongous supercute mascot charactersTalk about hiding in plain sight. When Tokyo's Bureau of Waterworks decided to paint its official PR mascot, Mr. Earth, atop the roof of their Shibaura facility, they didn't mess around. Although you can't see it from street level, it's actually visible from several kilometers above the Earth's surface. Roof of Shibuara Water Recycling Center: Google Earth view 45. You can eat like a sumo wrestler
Sumo wrestlers are always going head-to-head in a fast and furious slapping match against 130-kilo (285 pounds) opponents, which is why they require a steady diet of chanko nabe stew to keep their stamina up and their butts padded. Yoshiba is located in a former sumo stable, and you can chow down like a champion at a table right beside the clay ring. 2-14-5 Yokoami, Sumida-ku; +81 (0)3 3623 4480 46. The most prolific festivalsWhile festivals of all shapes and sizes are staged throughout the year, any Japanese will tell you that there's no festival like a summer festival. Most well known are the "Three Great Edo Festivals" of Kanda-matsuri in Kanda, Sanno-matsuri in Nagata-cho, and Fukagawa-matsuri in Tomioka, Koto-ku. These get-togethers provide a way for neighbors to bond, celebrate, and wish for continued prosperity. Helping to lubricate the process is -- surprise! -- a large quantity of alcoholic beverages. More on CNN: Why Japanese bartenders are the world's best 47. The most fiscally reckless, visually spectacular fireworks displaysTokyo has a huge number of major hanabi taikai, or fireworks festivals, every summer, but the gathering at Asakusa and Mukojima along the Sumida-gawa river has got to be the most spectacular. More than 20,000 individual fireworks are launched every year on average. 48. Vegan food fit for meat loversWhen it comes to excellent vegan cuisine, look no further than ... a Buddhist temple. The monks of Takao Yakuo-in monastery prepare elaborate vegan meals for visitors on a reservation-only basis. The multi-course, multi-plate spreads are a special treat for carnivore and non-carnivore alike. Takao Yakuo-in Temple, Takao-cho 2177, Hachioji-shi, Tokyo; +81 (0)42 661 1118 49. The finest art cafesLocated on the fifth floor of a nondescript building in the back streets of Aoyama, the A to Z Cafe brings Yoshitomo Nara's works to life in an imagined recreation of the artist's atelier. A to Z cafe, Equbo Building 5/F, Minami Aoyama 5-8-3, Minato-ku, +81 (0)3 5464 0281, noon-11:30 p.m. 50. The best riverboat entertainmentSumida River is the most beloved river of the shitamachi Tokyo downtown and also home to the yakata-bune -- a traditional Japanese boat whose interior looks a lot like a typical Japanese pub. Package deals, starting from ¥10,000 ($100), offer a boat and all-you-can-eat-and-drink food and alcohol for large groups, who gorge on beer and okonomiyaki as their vessel plies the river. There's even a great view of the ubiquitous Skytree. Updated from a story revised in March 2012. Share your thought in the comments section -- what do you think makes Tokyo the greatest city in the world? Tags: |
| World’s most stomach-friendly 24-hour restaurants Posted: 04 Sep 2013 01:04 AM PDT For those who think eating should be an all-day-all-night activity, here's the menu  No one says anyone should eat 24 hours a day. But there's nothing worse than the 3 a.m. stomach wail for pizza and coffee going unanswered. To guarantee a hunger-pang-free night, these places are worth remembering. Duck and Waffle (London)
But 40 floors up at the summit of the Heron Tower in London's financial district lies the city's biggest game changer of recent years. Serving high-end comfort food including tuna with watermelon, oysters and scallops, the decor is a glamorously scuffed hotch-potch of smooth woods and garish wall murals. But the knockout punch comes from the view -- looking down over the sparkling jewelry box of neon that makes up London's nocturnal skyline is enough to revive even the sleepiest of late night gourmands. Highlight: Duck egg with wild mushrooms, gruyere, truffles and soldiers. Duck and Waffle, Heron Tower, 110 Bishopgate, London; +44 203 640 7310 Shinanoji (Tokyo)It ain't glamorous, it ain't sexy and it ain't pricey -- a worthy claim in this notoriously pricey city. Next to Uguisudani train station, Shinanoji is a classic blue collar affair that's achieved legendary status among Tokyo's after-hours hedonists as the place to eat reviving comfort food in the small hours before taking the train back to the 'burbs. Large crowds head to the "horigodatu" communal eating area complete with sunken floor. Others crowd in to one of the bijou tables for budget priced dishes of noodles, salads and miso-flavored beef. It'll make the wait for the train, and the impending hangover, more bearable. Highlight: Aji-furai -- deep fried mackerel with a shot of hot saki. Shinanoji, 1-7-4 Negishi, Taito-ku, Tokyo; no website Coppelia (New York)
Full of marble, chrome and cosy booths, the twist here is that alongside the expected 24-hour comfort foods of burgers, fries and waffles, there's also an extensive list of Cuban specialities. Julio Medina's menu offers the likes of fish tacos and beef and cheese empanadas at reasonable prices for this part of chi-chi Manhattan. For alcoholic libations check out the after hours cocktail menu which offers a good array of lesser known tequilas and "spiked" alcoholic milkshakes including vodka, avocado ice cream, absinthe and skimmed milk. Highlight: "Ropa vieja" -- slow cooked shredded beef with tomato salsa, peppers, chili, rice and beans. Coppelia, 207 W. 14th St. (between 7th and 8th Avenues), New York; +1 212 858 5001 Le Cochon (Paris)For porcine thrills that last throughout the night this Paris institution in Les Halles delivers on every level. The decor is classic French brassiere complete with taciturn waiters, red leather banquettes, acres of brass and dazzling chandeliers. The speciality is pig and the menu offers delectable, if somewhat challenging quantities, of robust classics such as deep fried pigs trotters with French fries, calves kidney flambéed with cognac and knuckle of pork braised in spices and beer. The restaurant has never closed its doors since 1947 and esteemed patrons have included Alfred Hitchcock, Serge Gainsbourg and Jacques Chirac in his days as mayor of Paris. Highlight: St. Anthony's Temptation -- breaded pig tail, ear, snout and trotters with Béarnaise sauce. Le Cochon, 6 rue Coquilliere, Paris; +33 01 40 13 77 00 Cafe Pushkin (Moscow)
This opulent institution only opened its doors in 1999. It was well known to Europeans before it even existed however, thanks to the French singer Gilbert Brecaud who had a huge hit in the 1960s with a song called "Nathalie" which contains the lines, "We are walking in Moscow, coming to the Red square with you quoting learned phrases about Lenin's revolution, but I'm thinking: 'I wish to sit with you in Cafe Pushkin, drink a hot chocolate and talk...while the snow is falling outside.'" Highlight: Duck mousse with wheat chips, garden radish and cream cheese. Cafe Pushkin (website in Russian), Ul. Tverskoy Boulevard. 26-A; +7 495 739 00 33 Mel's Drive In (Los Angeles)
Originating in San Francisco in the 1960s, Mel's has featured in George Lucas' iconic "American Graffiti" movie and still serves up "Mel-burgers," chili fries and shakes -- though the soundtrack to a night out here from the various booming car stereos is more likely to be Kanye than Chuck Berry these days. Highlight: Mel's Supreme Burger with bacon, ham and cheese. Mel's Drive-In, 8585 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, California; +1 310 854 7201 (see website for multiple locations) El Borrego Viudo (Mexico City)It seems the whole world knows how good Mexican food can taste at the end of the night, but for the ultimate comfort food at dawn few beat the tacos from this bijou taquaria in Colonia Tacubaya (southwest of la Condesa). The speed at which the kitchen workers prepare the likes of tacos de cabeza (beef head) and suadero (thin-cut beef brisket) is astonishing and you can wash it all down with the traditional Mexican drink of tepache - fermented pineapple juice with honey, cloves and barley. Highlight: Absolutely any taco -- just ask for whatever is most popular that evening. El Borrego Viudo, Revolucion 241, Tacubaya, Mexico City; no website Tsui Wah (Hong Kong)
This is unpretentious Hong Kong food served up in big portions around the clock to bleary-eyed students, young smooching couples, bedazzled tourists and determined revellers who have stumbled in straight from the party district of Lan Kawi Fong which lies just a minute or so away. The epic menu includes local staples like Hainan chicken rice, macaroni noodles in soup with vegetables, curried beef brisket and fishbowl noodles. There's a hectic canteen style briskness to the atmosphere and the service but a visit here is an absolutely quintessential slice of after hours activity in one of Asia's most exciting late night cities. Highlight: Sizzling king prawns with fried noodles. Tsui Wah, G/F-2/F, 15-19 Wellington St., Central, Hong Kong; +852 2525 6338 (see website for multiple locations) Tags: |
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